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FreezyRider

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  1. FreezyRider
    Thanks to all for all of the help....and a big special thanks to V7Goose!!!! Your help was what pointed me in the right direction. After getting home from work today, I put the meter on it and determined that I had power to the kill switch, but no power to the coils. Following the wires from the kill switch into the fairing led me to that 6 pin connector that Goose talked about. Lo and behold, the prong on the wire from the k/s carrying power to that connector had pulled almost out of the back of the connector. After reinserting it and then zip-tying it in place to keep that from happening again, all systems are now normal. Whew, what a relief to hear her run again!! Goose, if I ever meet you in person I'll buy you a cold one ...or two....or more....of your choice! Joe
  2. FreezyRider
    Take a look at this thread: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=37424&highlight=bluetooth+cable Just click on Buddy's name on his post and send him a private message.
  3. FreezyRider
    ....and the problem was...?????????
  4. FreezyRider
    Yeah, I don't know who wrote that manual, but they aren't living in the real world.
  5. FreezyRider
    Thanks, Goose....that does help. Since you have indicated that the kill switch actually makes a connection between the R/B and R/W wires, that probably means that the kill switch is not my problem. I say that because last night I shorted across the contacts on the back of the switch where the wires are soldered on, just to see what would happen. Still no cranking with them shorted. Yes, I did check the ignition fuse. First I pulled it and inspected it, looked OK. About a half hour later, not trusting a visual inspection only, I pulled it again and used the meter on it. Tested ok. Actually went ahead and put another fuse in it's place just to be sure..... Now I'll have to start tracing power to see where the voltage stops. As a further clue....I think it may be in the fairing. The wires from the kill switch go there....AND I had the fairing apart last weekend working on a driving light wiring fiasco that the previous owner had created. Got that one fixed...and may have loosened something else up in the process????? Joe
  6. FreezyRider
    Yes, fuel pump runs. ALL electrical systems work fine with one exception....NOTHING happens when you push the start button except that the red temp light comes on. If you want to see your bike do the same thing, simply turn the kill switch to the off position, turn the key to on, and press the start button. You will see exactly what I see. Except mine does the same thing regardless of which position my kill switch is set to. Joe
  7. FreezyRider
    Thanks for the idea, Salty. I have a battery load tester, but didn't think of trying that. I'll test it and see. Joe
  8. FreezyRider
    Thanks, Goose. My brain is fried for tonight. Gonna call it a day and just veg out for a bit. Joe
  9. FreezyRider
    Another thing eliminated.... I just pulled the SCCR relay and tested it according to Goose's instructions. She tests out fine. Does anyone know how the kill switch functions? When in the run position, does the switch close across the two contacts or does it break connection between the two? Joe
  10. FreezyRider
    According to the info in the tech section posted by Freebird, the switch tests OK. Continuity between red and brown (switch on) and between the blue/yellow and blue/black. In addition, since ALL lights and gauges work this doesn't seem to be ign switch related. I will make a jumper and try it just to be sure..... Thanks. joe
  11. FreezyRider
    I was just playing around with it again and noticed another thing that I don't think is normal....at least I have never noticed this before. Bike in neutral, side stand down, neutral light on, clutch either in or out (no difference)..I noticed that the fuel level indicator on the dash is blinking on and off. At first all of the bars were lit. After a few seconds it changed to only the bar on each end of the indicator being lit. Strange. I'm wondering about the SCCR after reading the other thread referred to by Goose.... Joe
  12. FreezyRider
    Goose, On the other thread, in post #7 you said: One other piece of information - if the kill switch is on and you hit the start button, ONLY the engine temp light will come on, not the oil level light. That may help us determine if they made some abnormal modification to the wiring. Since this is exactly what my bike is doing (regardless of the position of the kill switch) that leads me to believe that the kill switch itself is the problem. Am I assuming too much? Joe
  13. FreezyRider
    Goose, Bike was in gear, coasting after it died. I pulled in the clutch lever and tried to restart. Nothing. Since getting it home it has been in the garage with sidestand down, in neutral. Same result when trying to start. I have verified that the neutral light still functions as normal. I'll read the other thread and see if I can find something there. Thanks. Joe
  14. FreezyRider
    That light comes on (now) no matter which position the kill switch is in. Therefore, my belief that therein lies the problem. I've accidentally flicked the kill switch off so many times in my years of riding that now when a bike dies that is the very first thing I check..... Joe
  15. FreezyRider
    Today on my way home from work, I was cruising along on my 99 RSV at 60mph in 4th gear. Radio off, cruise control on. All of a sudden the engine died as if I'd hit the kill switch. Initially I thought that the cruise had just dropped out. Nope. Checked the kill switch, hadn't hit it. Flicked it back and forth a few times and tried to restart. Nothing. I have read all the posts on ignition switch failure and this sounds different. All my lights, radio, dash lights and instruments are working normally. The only problem is that when I hit the starter button nothing happens except for the engine temp light (red light on the lower right of the instrument panel) comes on until I release the button. I can hear the fuel pump run, 4-way flashers work, horn (Stebel) works....everything but the start circuit. I'm thinking kill switch failure. Any of you wizards have any thoughts before I start tearing her apart? Sure am thankful that this didn't happen last week in the middle of my 2000 mile Appalachian mountain range trip! Joe
  16. FreezyRider
    Hey Dennis, glad you and Valerie made it home safe and sound. Nice little ride just to go to dinner! Did you run out of restaurants in Lexington? We came through (actually past) your hometown on Friday afternoon on our way home from our week-long Shenandoah Mountains/Blue Ridge/Smokies trip. What an awesome week that was. And the new-to-me Venture was a pure joy to ride. Unbelieveable comfort. I had one happy butt all week. Joe
  17. FreezyRider
    I am convinced that every bike, and every "whine" is different. I have also become convinced that the CHIRP is the exact same thing as the whine, only in a magnified form. When I got my 99, it had Amsoil in it. Not being a fan of synthetics due to my previous experience with Rotella 5w-40 on my Goldwing, I drained the Amsoil and put in Rotella 15w-40 dino oil. A friend had luck getting rid of the whine by switching from synthetic to dino so why not give it a try? Well, let me tell you.....that whine became a literal SCREAM. Couldn't stand it. So, with only about 100 miles on the dino, I drained it and switched to Castrol 20w-50, the oil of choice on my Goldwing. Again, 100 miles later I found myself draining that oil...still screaming like a banshee. At this point in time I changed the rear drive unit to a VMAX drive. When I pulled the drive pins, they were terrible. Solid rust. No lube at all. Cleaned everything up, lubed with Moly 60, and reinstalled. I also added Rotella 5w-40 Synthetic to the engine. Why not try? The whine is still there. Only now it is bearable. If I wear my modular helmet it is nearly gone unless I am listening for it. At cruising speed all I can hear is my Baron's 4-2-4 Nasty Boys. Just the way it should be! I don't think you can ever totally get rid of the whine or chirp on a bike that has a serious case of it. You can change the frequency, the volume, the rpm point at which it appears and disappears....but it will still be there. The key for me is getting it to where it doesn't remove all the joy from riding. Joe
  18. FreezyRider
    Well, I know some people who would say that you need to grow a ponytail, cover your arms with tattoos, and only ride from bar to bar. Somehow I just don't see you covered in tattoos Bill!
  19. FreezyRider
    First off, let me say that I cannot take credit for this trick to make reinstalling your driveshaft a short and simple process. That credit belongs to Pegscraper, otherwise known as Lynn Nicholls. Turn back a few pages.....some time back, Lynn had replaced his rear drive with a modified VMAX rear drive unit. He had a skilled machinist modify the housing to accept the speedo sensor (that is the only external difference between the Venture/Royal Star housing and the VMAX housing). He has now decided that he is going to replace his RS tranny with the tranny out of a 1st Gen and therefore needs to go back to a RS/RSV rear drive.....you'll have to get the details from Lynn if you are curious. Anyway, he asked if I'd be interested in swapping my RSV drive unit for his VX unit. HECK YES!!!! So, last night was the chosen time to make the swap. In talking earlier about doing this, Lynn had made the comment that putting the drive shaft back in was not a difficult task, not nearly as bad as I've read here on the boards. So I decided to carefully observe and see what his trick was to an easy reinstall. Sure enough....it only took him about 2 minutes max to get the drive shaft back into the yoke. Want to know how he does it???? Just send me $9.95 by paypal and I'll let you in on the secret!!!! Just Kidding.....don't shoot me. Here it is...and it's so easy. Lynn puts the driveshaft back in without reinstalling into the rear drive unit first. Doing it that way makes it easy to "feel" the yoke, lift it into alignment, and slide the shaft into place. At first I was concerned about whether this would possibly create a problem on the drive housing end of things, but with the spring in the housing pushing toward the yoke, it is pretty obvious that the shaft ends up all the way into the yoke anyway. Well, when reinstalling mine I did the same. I'm not as good at it as Lynn is....took me all of 10 minutes to get mine realigned. But I finally figured out the trick and it isn't bad at all. So, first of all....THANK YOU to Pegscraper for swapping with me. The RSV is a totally different beast with that rear drive in it. About pulled my arms out of their sockets when I hammered it hard on the test drive! And secondly, thanks for the assembly trick, Lynn!!! Joe
  20. FreezyRider
    I'm from Monroe, about 25 miles straight South of Fort Wayne. Up toward your area there are several members...Leadwolf56 is around Elkhart, several others in that general vicinity too. Joe
  21. FreezyRider
    HEY! I just noticed that you are in Indiana! Where are you located? I'd bet we could find someone close who could help you out with your sync job. Joe
  22. FreezyRider
    WELCOME!!! Yep, just need to get those carbs sync'd and you'll be amazed at the difference. Joe
  23. FreezyRider
    So Bill, you evidently checked out the Voyager last Saturday huh?? What did you think of it? I think we need a review.... Joe
  24. FreezyRider
    Correction: There were no Ventures made after 93 until the first production year of the 2nd Gen (or RSV) which was in 1999.
  25. FreezyRider
    She'll get sprayed tonight, we'll see what happens.
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