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PGunn

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Everything posted by PGunn

  1. SD Card I would be looking at a 32 gig if it would run it or is the 4 gig the limit? Now about that tuning software for the bike, run your own ECM from it along with GPS, Engine readout, tire pressure, sound system, tunner, MP3 player...... And all you would need is a LCD touch screen waterproof of course. you could do away with on the bike the radio, speedometer, any gauging could be done on screen. Whole new dash layout.... Talk about a project..... Here is a nice size, 10" long 2 inputs with a camera....
  2. Thanks Gary for the update Got these off Ebay for 25.00 and a bunch of buffing with a bit of clear with chrome tops and levers. Brembo front brake and clutch master cylinders.
  3. Here is the only 4 wheeler I would get. Nice all round type.....
  4. Have a dremal tool? They have small buffing wheels for it....
  5. These are from 08 but I haven't made any changes after the original mount.
  6. Here is the one I use http://www.motorcycleroads.us/index.html
  7. Leg Shields (lower farings) - The leg shields may prove to be a small issue with removeal as on the right side, now this is on a Venture so I may be wrong here, there is a fuse box inside there that will have to be relocated along with the wiring harness. Hyperchargers - If you need any help ask away I have mine all setup and working great. Keep in mind 1) All carbs mains HAVE TO be re-jetted up 2 sizes. 2) All carbs Pilot Jets HAVE TO go up 2 sizes. This is a real good starting point for the carbs and you should have them re-setup afterwords, dyno if you can. The bike will run after they are installed with or without the re-jetting but you will notice if you don't there is no power and it is running real lean. Exhaust I have run Screamin Eagles (these were way too loud for me) without having to re-jet afterwords. One thing I think you will like is you get a nice sound from them when you crack open the throttle and the response is a little better also. To get a matched set (right and left sides) you may have to do a mod to one so that when looking from the top down they match. I got lucky and found a matched set on Ebay off a Harley.
  8. I'm still running those Hyperchargers.
  9. I can upload it to Adobe's download site if your still having a problem.... I just checked it and it opened fine for me.
  10. Found a time saver here is a list of most bikes handlebar sizes in one place... Comes in handy if you want to replace master cylinders or even the handlebars from one bike to another. Has all the measures distances including pullback, rise and such.
  11. Gary not to rush you but any updates? Thanks
  12. 2ndGen people are more informative... I bought the jack and the lift adapter from Carbon One and it works just like it should. One thing you guys might try is sliding a 2 x 2 under the frame of the bike this would give you the needed clearance or even 4 hockey pucks I have heard will work.
  13. That is the best way to do them.
  14. My brother once had stripped out the threads in a V6 block and he used this stuff and never had a problem after that. He used the release agent on the bolt threads filled the hole let it set. Once it was hard he unscrewed the bolt and the threads held under 35ft. lbs of torque. Loctite Form-A-Thread repair kit [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Form-A-Thread-repair-kit-grey/dp/B000WSEUII]Amazon.com: Loctite Form-A-Thread repair kit, grey - 4.8ml: Sports & Outdoors@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31UAMyXc8GL.@@AMEPARAM@@31UAMyXc8GL[/ame] Loctite® Form-A-Thread® Stripped Thread Repair, makes reliable thread repairs without drills, taps, tools, or inserts. Restores worn, stripped or damaged threads and eliminates future corrosion, galling, seizing, and rust. Allows up to 128 ft. lbs. of torque between -65°F to 300°F. Permanently repairs stripped threads and fasteners in five minutes (up to SAE Grade 5 English and 8.8 metric).
  15. Here is mine and they have Venture across the bottom of the tank badge and the bag hinges
  16. I bought mine new in 06 and had the basket changed right away, I could only stand it for around a week. Well I went from whine all the time to whine only when slowing down. One other thing I noticed is when I pull in the clutch the whine goes away. Now I know those gears are still engaged when the clutch releases so I'm guessing it is because the load is removed that the whine stops? Has anyone come up with a list of what to look for and how to fix all these little gotcha's in the drive train? I had my back tire off and talk about never being serviced so I have added that to my maintaince plan for the future.
  17. Ok here are the dimensions I got last night if you need more ask the weather is nothing but rain or drizzle so riding is out for a while anyways and the caliper is already off the bike. 1) Back of the mounts to the disk face - 1.162 (29.515 mm) 2) distance from center line of the axel to the center line of the lower mount pad hole - 3.990 (101.346 mm) 3) Mount pad holes (After getting it apart I really measure here using 2 pins in the holes) - 3.945 (100.203 mm ). I was using a ruler to measure which it "looked" like 100 mm but after using pins in the holes I found I was way off. 4) Disk is 298mm diameter and .196 thick (4.978 mm) 5) The brake line connection on the current caliper is about center of it. The R1 caliper the brake line connection is at the top (?) end side of the caliper. I'll update here to keep things together. I'll get the other info you asked for later today. and a BIG thanks on this. Here are pictures of the side with the caliper off / out of the way and a scale attached to the tube for reference. Ok the pictures are too big to upload here so I uploaded them to adobe sendnow they should be there for 7 days. they are in one zip file called bike.zip https://sendnow.acrobat.com/?i=V4ePVlHttrKXGpSUlw-6Kw
  18. I'll be getting all the rest of the measurements tonight for sure. Once I got the caliper off I found getting my depth micrometer in there shouldn't be a problem. One question for Gary though when I measure from the centerline of the axle to the lowest bracket bolt hole do you want it straight up then across or on the angle (straight shot between the two)? So tonight I'll get 1) disk thickness 2) distance between the bottom of the mounting tabs to the disk 3) distance from lower tab mount hole centerline to the axle centerline 4) Rotor diameter I'll make sure I have everything in one posting including what has already been posted.
  19. Gary you know the measure twice cut once thing well I did measure them after I got the caliper off and yes they are 100mm apart center to center. I will be getting all the other dimensions tonight. I figured the whole thing would be replaced with the new brackets. Do you need the mounting bolts distance center to center on the calipers also?
  20. http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-drive-click-stop-torque-wrench-2696.html Range20 to 200 in. lbs.
  21. I am kind of suprised no one asked about this sooner with towing a trailer. Yea the current brakes will work sure but.....
  22. I saw this and had a thought what thread is the longest active thread on this site?
  23. I didn’t get a chance to take the caliper off last night but I did get the pictures to give you an idea as to the current setup and the calipers I purchased. In the series of pics of the front caliper one of the mount bolts is kind of hidden behind the reflector there is one shot showing that bolt. I will try again tonight to get the measurements. The Mount bolts are 100mm apart
  24. I know on mine if you slowly start pressing slowly on the release to lower it will drop fast at first but if you press it all the way down quickly it does a quick drop for a second then drops at a much slower rate.
  25. Brakes (Front) Dual 298mm discs Brakes (Rear) 320mm disc Tires (Front) 150/80-16 Tires (Rear) 150/90-15
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