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PGunn

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Everything posted by PGunn

  1. PGunn
    Don't kill yourself looking for it. I have looked in the service manual and it looks like there is one but I can't find any mention of it in the service manual. I would be real surprised if the fan temperature switch is all that controls it without one. I am working on adding an oil cooler and would like to use the radiator fan to also cool the oil when or if needed. I have tried to chase the fan leads back but I can only go back so far. Thanks for looking though..... Paul
  2. PGunn
    First line in the pdf: "I was looking at getting LED turn signals, but I didn't want to have fast flashing signals, (it reminds me of the old thermal mechanical ones when they were ready to die) or loose the self-canceling feature." I would think so he does not say it stopped working. Also I would get one off EBay just to try it on, they are if I remember right are around 7.00 each and if you screw it up you still have the one working on the bike.
  3. PGunn
    I just found this PDF on how to mod the flasher relay on the Gen2 to work with LEDs and not have fast flashing and have the cancel and 4 way working. I found the doc here http://www.650ccnd.com/PDFs/Flasher_mod_Revised.pdf
  4. PGunn
    Where is it located on a Gen2 anyone know?
  5. PGunn
    Here is the same one on EBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/85-07-Yamaha-VMX12-V-Max-1200-Motorcycle-Clutch-Basket-Removal-Tool-CT050SP-/310498062254?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item484b206fae&vxp=mtr
  6. PGunn
    I was looking at the vise grip one but this looks a whole lot better at locking the two together.
  7. PGunn
    I don't believe it would be a direct bolt in. There are 2 generations of the Venture (Gen 1 and Gen 2). You have the Gen 1 and I believe you would need a Gen 1 moter to do a direct bolt in. Check out this guy on EBay he is good on his prices and carries a lot for all kinds of bike parts. The link will take you to the engine style for your bike. http://stores.ebay.com/PinWall-Cycle-Parts-Inc/Venture-1983-1993-/_i.html?_nkw=engine&_fsub=3669172014&_sid=12458664
  8. PGunn
    Well I'll keep you informed as to were i'm at on these as I move further along.
  9. PGunn
    The 6 piston calipers I am using are the same ones that come on the new V Max. Now I'm not saying it isn't over kill just real close to it....LOL
  10. PGunn
    Bob when I say stop I mean STOP!!!!! The whole thing really is or could be could be called over kill but when towing a trailer with 2 people and close to 500lbs stopping is a must... I also have bored out the R1 master (brembo) to fit the handle bars and I'm using a Ninja Clutch master (Nissan) also bored out to fit, They are close enough to matching each other. I have some mirror clamps which will hold the reservoirs and allow for mirror mounting. all stainless lines with PTFE hoses and once the whole thing is done it is all going out for chroming.
  11. PGunn
    Those will be for mounting the R1 6 pot calipers. The photo there is of the first prototype before making all kinds of cuts and re-cuts, moving holes and basically adjusting that blank to work. I have attached a photo of where I am currently at with the caliper on the adapter and already sent the updated print to the shop for machining.
  12. PGunn
    Now not to get off topic here but I would first get a can of Seafoam and run it through the tank a few times to solve the sluggishness and try to get it firing on all cylinders. Next can you get your hands on another tachometer to test against? Also check the tech section on how to properly connect the tachometer. You never know what the last guy did so you kind of start from scratch and recheck everything. Including if it is firring on all cylinders.
  13. PGunn
    How long has the tach been connected, who set it up and did it ever read correctlly?
  14. PGunn
    Extension Socket Connector This one won't melt..... $10.45 for 2 http://www.ebay.com/itm/H4-Extension-Socket-Connector-LED-Head-Light-Xenon-Bulb-/160629778268?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item256647e75c&vxp=mtr
  15. PGunn
    Open My Computer, Right click on the "C:\" drive select "Properties" then select the "Tools" tab then click on "Check now" select both check boxes click start. It will ask if you want to run on the next reboot select "yes" and reboot. This is going to take a while so let it run and it will reboot at least once by it's self. After that completes try doing the updates. Sound like you "may" have a bad spot or some crossed linked files on the drive causing the error which Check disk will either fix or mark as bad so they don't get used. Another thing when the check disk finishes follow the same steps but select "De-fragment Now" this will also help clear any crossed linked files. And yes Vista and Windows 7 are suppose to do automatic defrags but if the system is shut down or on for limited times or has been powered off without a proper shutdown too many times it will never run.
  16. PGunn
    Blanks are ready for the next step of locating and mounting the 6 piston calipers
  17. PGunn
    Before I start I want to run this past a few of you guys to see what you think, the first thing I am planing on doing is threading a temp sensor into the oil cooler adapter output side. Next put a DPDT switch in-between it and the water temp gauge with an LEDs to identify which sensor is currently doing the monitoring getting the use out of it for both water temp and oil temp. Next will be mounting the cooler in front of the radiator with a fan and a screen to try to protect everything from road damage. Next with the adapter I am planing on using has a built in thermostat which is set to open when the oil gets above 180 and close when the oil gets below 160 on the flow side that has already gone through the filter. A fan switch set at on at 180 also on the line leading to the cooler. I will be using stainless braid over PTFE lines with 8AN fittings for the oil lines to protect them from damage, lines should be good for a quite a few years. All bends will be handled by AN fittings so kinking the PTFE line won't happen, ok shouldn't.... This is going to be a Fall / Winter project and I would like to get as many kinks worked out before I start. I am due for a coolant and oil change anyways so I figure as long as I doing all that add it now.
  18. PGunn
    Now for what the dealer left out.... I found this article the other day when someone wanted to know why I would not buy a Harley. Well instead of going through all the rehashed stuff which is the normal way of going about it I thought I would see just what others had to say. Now before you start please read the article this guy loves Harleys but points out stuff that I feel should not be an issue but really are..... BEFORE YOU BUY A HARLEY-DAVIDSON MOTORCYCLE - YOU NEED TO READ THIS ARTICLE http://www.jamesrussellpublishing.biz/beforeyoubuyharley.html
  19. PGunn
    Hoping for the best...
  20. PGunn
    Thats a "normal" speed differance (7%) from what I have seen here and on my bike also. You can buy a speed healer for around 150.00 to correct it. I usually keep mine between 75 - 80 which keeps me in the "safe" range on the highway
  21. PGunn
    Miles any news on this? Just asking...
  22. PGunn
    I would hold off on cracking the faring and try what Lil Beaver said, check the wiring under the cover. I do have one quick question you did say you had the same issue with the sending unit you took out and it was working without an issue before the gauge swap? If so and the error is idenical as the new one if so the whole thing sounds like a resistance issue which would be the easy thing to check using the old one.
  23. PGunn
    If what Foyerboy is saying is correct then I would look at the resistance of the sending unit. Think of it as a volume control (variable resistance) now if the new gauge unit (LEDs) operate at one resistance and the OEM gauge set operates at another their is your mismatch. One way to check it is use an Ohm meter and very the sending unit between full and empty then check the manufactures of the LED set and see what the operating resistance is suppose to be. You solution may be as simple as a road trip to your local Radio Shack and pick up a resistor to put between the sending unit and the LED gauge set to match what is called for.
  24. PGunn
    Quick test would be to make a quick harness plug it into the the tank sending unit using the old (orginal) gauges and lights. This would save ripping everything out and woulod allow you to test different resistors on the leds to figure out what is going on.
  25. PGunn
    Here is one that may work, put the drive in the freezer for around 2 - 3 hours then remove it plug it in and see if it comes up. This is a one shot deal so it is either going to work or not. Another one if your not worried about the warranty and the disk isn't spinning is go to Home Depot buy a set of those real small torx screwdrivers. First plug in any adapters you need to slave the drive off on another system. Now remove the sticker on top of the drive and remove all the screws and pull the top. Next without getting finger prints on any of the innards plug the drive into another system (slave it off). Now using, in most cases, a torx and try spinning the disks there is a screw right in the center you can use so you don't have to touch the disks. I have had them so tight the drive would squeal when trying to get it spinning but once it frees up recover your data using the system that it is connected to. When your done if you want to you can take the whole thing apart and make clocks out of the disks because that is all it is going to be worth when your done. Don't try saving it for anything toss it out afterwords and don't try using it as a drive after you put the cover back on even though it may work it is going to die again. If you getting a clicking popping noise in most cases you need to remove the disks and put them into another drive to do the data recovery, send it out to have this done. I have also been able to remove the circuit board and swap in another one from the same make and model drive and had that work.
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