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Everything posted by PGunn
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I had the same problem check the fluid level when the bike is off the side stand and change / bleed the whole brake system.
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Following too close is following to close regardless of intentions..... The Cop was wrong pure and simple. If the rider had talked to the Cop in the same manner as the Cop was talking to the rider the rider would have gone to jail.....
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Barnett Clutch question
PGunn replied to alwrmcusn's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
I did a complete Barnett swap and 1) I didn't see any markings on the Barnett disks (clutch) and put them in just like the OEM came off in the same order and lined them up. 2) Oil change during I would if possible jack the bike up put it on a stand (Carbon-one has the best I have seen) then drain the oil and swap out the clutch than replace the oil. I didn't see or know of a second drain on the Gen II for the transmission. As a side note wait until the first time you power through the gears and you will be asking yourself why didn't you do this sooner. You can also swap the clutch out with out draining the oil and using the side stand. The oil all flows to the opposite side away from the clutch so you can change it without draining / loosing oil. -
LOL I would vote for #3 as it has the best outcome.....
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I use this stuff after cleaning lasts quite a while and all you need is soap and water to cleaning. Sharkhide Aluminum Hull Protectant, quart http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?i=79649
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And where?????? Address - I really want to make sure and watch out for the other guys....
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SilvrT is correct on the address thing just add any name that will end up at the top of the address list that is a dead address or create one @1@no.com and it will stop the script dead in it's tracks you can also use these in the name and it will also stop ir as they are not allowed as the begining character in the user name ; & % + # \
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My wife who at one time wanted to take up riding but changed her mind was looking at bikes. Now like the rest are saying somewhere in the 650 - 850 class bike is a great starter. While looking for a more permanent type of bike (like there is such a thing) we were looking at the Road Star bikes. She was eying a 2000 one because being only 5' 2" the fit was surprising and it is a 1600 but like I said she opted out of riding going to the passenger now and then.
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I had 500 miles on mine when "Mr. I'm in a rush and don't have time" thought parking it in the driveway the wrong way wouldn't be a big issue and got off the bike, stand down, motor running and started to walk away and as I turned to look at it I got to watch in slow motion the bike go over taking out the outer shell on the faring, the windshield, the mirror, the lower cowl over the radiator, the front chrome engine guard, rear saddle bag chrome guard, the chrome on the hinge on the saddle bag. The total from that if I remember right was some where in the $2500 range for replacement parts. Another time I came up to an intersection where the road I was on had a left turn high bank stop into a left turn high bank through. Went to put my foot down and there was no road under my foot and the bike followed right over. Good news was I did manage to control the fall somewhat and the damage was really minor.
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Patching a rear or any MC tire
PGunn replied to PGunn's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Ok and thanks to everyone for the responces on this. It is in the "center" part of the tire more towards the side but not in the side wall at all. I prefer to patch it from the inside which I think that is what I will do. I was even tempted to plug it and when I had pushed the plug through to thread a second plug rope through the eye of the through plug (think of a "T") which I am sure it couldn't throw the plug that way. But like I said I'll patch the inside and see what happens. Once again thanks for the info. -
I have an E3 with a small finishing nail hole in it, the nail was barely long enough to go through. I replace the tire with another E3 but the first one has maybe 3,000 miles on it and it hurts just thinking about tossing it out. Is there a safe way to patch from the inside of the tire? The thoughts of making a bigger hole to plug it kill me if that is the way I should go or should I just chalk it up to bad luck and let it go?
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I would check the coil it could have a hot spot that is causing the issue. Once the coil heats up to a point it causes an internal brake or short to happen resulting in the cylinder dropping. With the ECU you can get one off EBay fairly cheep but when you get it plug it in test it out and make it does work. I carry a spare one on my bike all the time along with a spare voltage regulator. I usually use these guys now this part is for a Venture but as you can see the price is right... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Venture-Royal-Star-XVZ1300-1300-CONTROL-UNIT-/370373601372?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item563bfca85c
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Diodes on EBay 20 for $1.04 http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-pcs-1N4003-200V-1A-RECTIFIER-DIODE-/360480288900?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53ee4cb084 Resistors 10x 330k Ohm 0.5W Carbon Film Resistor ±5% M33 334 DE2972 10 for $1.11 http://www.ebay.com/itm/10x-330k-Ohm-0-5W-Carbon-Film-Resistor-5-M33-334-DE2972-/221137442595?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item337cd19723 If you shop around you can find them with free shipping..... Also if your flasher starts going crazy try this mod http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=74292&highlight=flasher
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ROFL how true in my house also....
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May need som Phoenix AZ help. Possible ripoff
PGunn replied to lonestarmedic's topic in Watering Hole
25560 W. SR HWY 85 Suite 6 Buckeye, AZ85326 Phone: 623-386-7261 -
I was once sitting in the break area with a few of the guys and we got into this discussion and one guy says his wife pretty much runs the roost. Well mister macho opens his mouth and proudly states for all to hear and says that he wares the pants in his house and his wife knows it. Well not being able to resist the chance I stated that yes you most likely do ware the pants but I'm betting she tells you which pair to put on in the morning. The room went nuts with the guys laughing because they all know there is a lot of truth in that.....
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Replacing brake lines per maintance schedule recomendations.
PGunn replied to dingy's topic in Watering Hole
One thing I may have missed here and for those wondering whats the difference between the stainless lines and the stock rubber lines. The stock are rubber with reinforced nylon braiding around the inner hose then a rubber layer over the nylon and the interior hose. The hoses disintegrate over time and the UV light will dry out the rubber allowing it to crack. The stainless lines should have a PTFE inner hose (Teflon) then the braided stainless is added for strength and protection. the Teflon is not affected by the brake fluid plus they look good. Lines of this nature you are better off having someone who knows how to make them for you than trying it yourself, last thing you want is one coming apart at the wrong time. One advantage also to the stainless is they expand very little under pressure compared to the rubber hoses which translates to more pressure at the caliper. -
I mounted a set of these eagles on my bike (RSV) and went for a 3 hour ride on the highway only. When I got home I took them off put them back in the box they came in put the RKs back on and have been quite happy with the quiet
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Does anyone know if the throttle cables from the TD will work on a Venture? I am looking at upgrading to Stainless to match the brake and clutch lines and found an inexpensive set for the TD (comparatively speaking) and was wondering with the part numbers being different and all if the cable length and connections between the two is the same. Thanks Paul
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Need C/L mount spacing on 2nd gen shock
PGunn replied to dingy's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Gary My only major concern would be the stress on the bolts if there is any on them over time it may prove to be an issue. Otherwise couldn't why couldn't you just machine the bottom yoke using the base of the yoke to make up the difference in the length and bolt it on? I would work in a key-way between the the yoke and the base of the shock going with the horizontal direction of the bolt and run the bolts 90 deg to it that would reduce the impact of any shear forces you may run into. With the key-way put the female part in the new yoke and the male part on the shock base. -
If your planing on just running across the states with little stopping I would recommend that you travel across NYS on the NYS Thruway (90) to 87 then head North to Lake Champlain cross there into VT. There is a ferry at Port Kent that will connect you to route 2 in VT then across Vermont and New Hampshire (great riding and awesome scenery) to Maine then turn south split between Big and Little Lake Sebago turn South West toward Ma. take 95 south hop onto 495 south MA (93, 95, 128 big waste of time but sometimes faster to the next point) to 95 south next into Rhodie Island across to CT heading west (95) out around NYC turn South west toward PA in PA somewhere (95?) and you should be able to hit both NJ and Maryland on your way south.....
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One ride I still want to do is route 20 across MA and through NY. I travel the NYS at least once a summer. After that Route 2 same thing MA, NY either direction or both....
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I try to run 93 in my bike only because after opening up the intakes to allow more air to flow in and having to re-jet the carbs because of the higher air flow the differance between the lower grade and the 93 is noticeable. So in order to get full use of the performance upgrade I have to run 93. I can use the lower grade but I would much rather use the higher grade.
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Ok I see what you mean I was looking at a different schematic and should have zoomed in a lot more. I am surprised there isn't a relay in there the switch must have a good amperage rating. Thanks....