PGunn

Happy Birthday Bob

"80-90 PSI inside the chamber hold the valve up. The only problem is that the air compressor has to maintain at least 30-40 PSI to hold the valve up the entire time you are changing each spring. Any less, and you will be removing the heads to retrieve the valve." Now as a side note and also as a just in case I would bring each cylinder to TDC or close to it. If for any reason you loose the pressure the valve will fall into the cylinder with the piston at or near TDC the valve stem will still be sticking out of the head so you can grab it. If you have a compression gauge connect it and turn the engine over it will show you what the cylinder pressure is just stay 10 - 20lbs below that. If you don't have a compression gauge Harbor Fright has them cheep or check any auto supply shop. http://voices.yahoo.com/how-change-valve-springs-7013038.html 3rd paragraph down ....

Yea no coolant changing or on the floor, no oil changing needed if done recently, cost saving (no need for new gaskets) time saving the list goes on.... Just make sure you follow the sites recommendations of cylinder pressure and use a regulator if you don't have one Harbor Freight has them. One other thing I would also recommend is loosen the oil fill to help bleed off the blow by

I was working on a setup but it got to the point of being a lot of work and finding the right throttle bodies and getting them in a package that would fit was where I hit the wall. I now own a set off an R1 and a set off a Honda 800 (they are in a square package already but still need to be modified to fit. Next comes the computer to run the whole thing that in the 500.00 range....

This process is almost as old as cars themselves. When the valves are closed the cylinder holds pressure aka cylinder compression when you remove the springs the internal pressure holds the valves closed. Check out these sites for more info http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=154278 http://voices.yahoo.com/how-change-valve-springs-7013038.html http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-tech/3068434-changing-valve-springs-what-psi-to-set-air-compressor-at.html

You can try using an old sparkplug and gut it down to just the base and tap it with a 1/8 pipe tap and attach a hose fitting to it. Next screw the converted plug into the cylinder your working on and connect up the compressor now don't turn on the compressor just yet. Make sure all valves are seated and then turn on the compressor and fill the cylinder with air leaving the compressor connected will hold the valves in the closed position while you swap the springs.

I have given up on that and went to my mp3 collection and Bluetooth....

Had a similar problem with my chrome ones I just bent the little fingers out with a knife blade a little bit and they are holding.

I am leaning towards the carbs being plugged only because it sounds like it is having an issue going from the idle circuit to the high speed circuit. But like the others said.... I would try swapping the ECM(?) from your sons bike to yours and see if it is that. If it proves not to be I would pull the carbs remove the bowl covers and floats and check the fuel flow (how much gas) the fuel pump is pumping out the end at the carbs (place the carb package over a 5 gallon bucket to catch the fuel) could be a restriction in the fuel line from the pump to the carb also disconnect the line from the tank and the pump blow air through it as it could be plugged also. If none of this proves to be the solution your next check would be the diaphragms in the carbs they could be ripped causing a vacuum leak.

Also check the tank vent hose it may be crimped somewhere

Well taking the dealers answer into consideration I believe it may be caused by those small ball located at the top of the antennas. What may be happening is because the weight of the balls and the length of the antennas they tend to start a pendulum motion and that transmits down the antenna and to the bike causing the bike to sway accordingly much like a metronome does.

One thing you should always do when drilling plastic of any type is chamfer the edges of the holes this will prevent cracking outwards from the hole. If you look at a boat where someone has drilled a hole and mounted something in the fiberglass down the road you will see small cracks leading out from the hole those are what I am talking about. All you need is a small chamfer say around .03 of an inch just to break the edge.

I have a front Metz and no issues, I HAD a Metz on back and it chunked and will never (personal preference) use them again. I am currently running an E3 on the back and love it.

I use the trip planner on underground weathers site.... http://www.wunderground.com/roadtrip/

I'm working on an adapter for the R1 Calipers to the RSV second gen. I have one done and I'm waiting for the second one that has a few corrections done. Once I get them completed and mounted and tested I'll let everyone know. This adapter is going to be for the 09 - 11 130mm mount 6 piston calipers.

I use the highest octane on the pump and find the higher the better. On my bike I have opened the intakes with the hypercharges re-jetted to the largest jets and shimed the needle the difference between the low and high grades is noticeable way more noticeable then when the intakes were running the stock intakes with the stock air cleaners and the stock jetting.

Here try this it will turn off the annoying pop up on sites.... http://www.malwarehelp.org/how-to-enabledisable-spybot-teatimer.html

Sounds like an app is mapped through Internet explorer to open pdf files but is either broken or has been uninstalled but I would lean toward broken. When that blue screen you talk about does it say what application it is trying to open or is the apps name on the open window? Adobe "should" open in Internet explorer and show you the pdf but isn't because some app is blocking it. Try this, now this is with Windows 7 and Internet Explorer 9 but I would believe 8 or 10 work the same way or similar: 1) open control panel 2) open "Internet Properties" 3) click on the "Programs" tab 4) click the "Set Programs" button 5) click on "Associate a file type or protocol with a program" 6) wait for the list to fill 7) scroll down to the .PDF click on it 8) click the "Change program" button 9) browse to the Adobe application and select the .exe program You need to do this with both the .pdf and .pdfxml extensions

My step-Daughter was about a block and 1/2 away from where the first one went off. Good thing she was more interested in the party than the finishing....

Don he did not bad mouth the VR site, at least from what I saw and I just had a long discussion with him on this and I started from the side of "what do you mean I can't post what I want". The only thing he is against is people for no reason posting to come join here and in the process implying or making it sound like it is a requirement to stay on the Facebook page weather on purpose or not (some folks are too easily intimated as we all know). Now the only way to insure that never happens would be a disclaimer of sorts would need to be placed each time someone brings up this site or any other and that will never happen. Now I personally did not see this happen and I even have in the past after pointing to an article in the tech section here that the membership here is 12.00 for the year and the folks here are a great bunch and very helpful when you have a problem. Now that being said, even that to some folks can be a little intimidating if you look at it without knowing what may happen if you were to use the info without joining the VR site, yea I know the bogeyman will come get you when you sleeping. I do have to say the way it started out was on the rough side and I questioned him on it openly and personally and after a few discussion in a civil manner I tend to see his point if you look at it from this persective and like I told him I'm not taking anyones side just trying to see what the issue was and is there a work around. Paul

In agreement 100% do not load that on you phone you will be turning everything you do on it over to FB for their usage, it's bad enough what they get away with on the site. If you want to access it just use the browser on your phone it takes a little getting use to but your also not telling Facebook about every place you go to. Paul

I do for the winter also helps in the spring because as long as it is up in the air change the fluids also.

I was living in VA back in the early 70's took my written test (no permit required) passed took the "road test" on a Kawa H2 750 up the street through a parking lot back down the other side stopped at the light turned parked noticed the guy wasn't to be found walked inside and was handed my license cost $15.00. Now today here in MA you go to a school take a day long course for around 400.00 and get your license at the end of the course and an insurance discount for taking the course so in a way you get your money back.

Now there is one other possibility and that is the rod that goes from the left side to the right and I have heard of that sticking and one fix is to spray some wd40 or a good machine oil (spray) on the left end behind the clutch slave cylinder. The right fix is to pull the clutch basket and pull the rod, clean and apply some light grease work the rod in and out until it's well lubed put everything back together and during reassembly install that new Barnett clutch setup change the oil and your done. I have an 06 Venture and have not had the problem but I looked into how to do it and that is the condensed version.

Same here off Ebay checked part numbers on the Barnett site