PGunn
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Everything posted by PGunn
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Just saw this on EBay if anyone is looking for one it is listed as buy it now at 149.99 and 12.99 shipping. I don't know if that price is good or too high but here it is if anyone is interested. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DECORATIVE-LICENSE-PLATE-LIGHT-BAR-HARLEY-TOURING-FL-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1c0b6ad21eQQitemZ120450634270QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
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First I want to thank everyone for their contribution to this issue. Goose I filled out the form and encourage the others to do the same. If your using this tire I would keep a large eye on it because it looks like there are more failures then not with this issue. As for me once is enough to scare me away from them and if I had looked further into it I would have steered clear of them. Those of you still running them take a look at the pictures and think long about using them. My mistake was not really looking over the tire after I had slowed down and felt something was wrong and ASSUMED everything was ok after a quick check. I am very lucky I didn't have a total failure while doing 80 mph and creating a road slick as a result, even at 65 it would have been bad. There is a lot to be learned from all the mistakes I made during this whole episode and please check those tires when anything reguardless of how small the issue it seems to be.
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Well one thing is for sure I did learn my lesson.... Looks like the Dunlop is the way to go and thanks for the info.
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I was out riding to a friends house last Saturday felt something like a rock under the rear tire after that nothing smooth ride all the way up to 80+. I get near my friends house slow down to around 40 and I start feeling thump like a flat. I pull up to my friends hous get off look at the tire give it a kick and it's solid so I figure I lost a wheel weight. We head out tearing up the road on to the highway running up 90+ and back down then out onto Route 1 in MA and stop for a Lobster roll and some seafood chowder. Finish eating and then head back to the bike and we were standing there talking and I happened to look down at my back tire.... Now has anyone else run into one like this. The tire pressuse has been kept at 40 psi and the tire has around 9,000 miles on it.
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Went out for a ride for around 3 hours today no issues and I honestly do not know why I thought it was right to start with, I won't go into how many motors I have rebuilt (bored, blueprinted, balance, decked, hand ported and polished) setup and installed. Anyways thanks for the help and pointing me in the right direction and yes a good slap in the back of the head is needed now and then.
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Ok here is the corrected install [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=swCsJd9x6Qk]YouTube - Yamaha Venture 06 Sun Super Tach II Part 2[/ame] I used the diode and resistor medthod and it works just as V7Goose said it should be and I do thank him for the assistance in correcting this. I ended up connecting the Tach to both of the front coils on the righ side of the bike.
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Ok I have a set made up and I'll try to get then in this weekend and go from there. I am sorry I came across wrong and I do appreciate the help.
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Ok I am now begining to see what your saying. The tach is reading 50% of the true RPM and if I connect it up using the wasted spark method it will read correctly? Now on another note why don't I see the needle bounce I keep hearing about?
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Ok I pulled the gas tank and made a short video which I uploaded to you tube. Now at the start of the video I show the connections with the green wire from the tach harness to the white OEM coil wire and back to the trigger connection on the coil with the green wire. The power for the tach and the back light for the tach attach to the hot or + side and then is connected to the coil + terminal and the ground connected to a bolt that holds the coil in place. All the engine revving is done in natural and when the tach hits around 3200 rpm you can see the interrupter hitting and once at that point the tach does go nuts but before that it does hold fairly steady and I will admint this shows it to be a lot worse then when it is under load on the road. All connections to the coil were done using "Y" harness setups and yes the fuse is in the worst place it can be and I will be switching it around later this year. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W_JFxtFy66o]YouTube - Yamaha Venture 06 Sun Super Tach II[/ame]
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I'll check tonight and let you know.
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Ok just to show this does work with this tach if someone(s) wants to come over to my house and I'll supply the beers and dogs take the tank off and have anyone check it out. I'm not upset by this just want to show that this does work with this tach and even I was suprised because after sending an email to SUN asking about an adapter for the wasted spark issue and was told by them the tach won't work without one. The only issue I am having with it is at highway speed sometimes and I mean sometimes the needle will bounce around 300 rpm on rough roads and I attribute this to the sensitivity of the needle on the tach itself. I have done nothing other than connect the tach to 1 coil (the one on the right side under the tank) as discribed here and I also used the power side of the coil to power the tach and ground is to the frame using one of the bolts that mount the coil. I live in Holbrook MA so let me know I will be around all weekend if you any of guys want to make a ride over. The following weekend weather willing I'll be riding to Medina NY for a 4 day weekend.
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I didn't BUT (there is always a "but") I have noticed that it will after a while "bounce" the needle on the tach and it's not all the time. The needle will bounce around +-300 rpm when this happens, it's not so bad as to make it impossible to read but more an annoyance then anything else. Driving around town staying under 55 and even under acceleration it will remain steady with no fluctuations but once on the highway and up to cruising speed it will fluctuate and not all the time. It's something I can live with for now but will more then likely fix by next season by adding the wasted spark type of connection. I would recommend that if you're going to do this connect the wasted spark method and save yourself the trouble of having to take it all apart to do it anyways. BTW it works great and I have not had one issue with it yet and this is after around 1200 miles and it has gone though the pressure washer at the car wash a few times already. Now if only the rain would stop and I could get out and do some more riding.... I was out this past weekend and I paid close attention to the tach. I noticed that the "bounce" is not from the wasted spark but from vibration / bumps in the road. The bouncing of the needle is like I said no more than +- 300 rpm when it does do it and it stops in a reasonable amount of time say a few seconds.
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I'll take 2
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I found a set of Halogen 35 watt driving lights on EBay listed at $19.95 buy it now with $7.20 shipping and figured what the heck for less then $30.00 give it a shot. Well the site said nothing about being DOT approved but they are and they went in with very little work. I had the change 1 end of the OEM wiring to a spade socket slip some tubing over it and I was done. They are marked with a "top" in the lens and a small tip in the lens at the bottom for the split in the clamping ring. They are also marked DOT with the DOT code on the lens. These are not sealed beams but lens with replaceable H3 bulbs. The guy has one pair listed right now and I did notice that when I purchased mine the next day another set was offered. Now this is for a pair not each and I had them in less then a week. http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/hwsolando_W0QQ_nkwZQQ_armrsZ1QQ_fromZ
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Here is an update for you guys looking for Yamaha Service Manuals: http://www.bostonsbikes.com/info/YamahaManuals/ You will need to know the part number for the manual this list is long...
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Ok good now what month and day do we do this on. I'm all for it and I’m sure a lot of the folks I ride with will be more than willing to join in. As for the guy with the rice rocket he should never be allowed to drive again car or bike and the jail time he should be serving but I won't get into that but check out check out this thread http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=19526 But once again it's not what you did but what you can afford to pay to get out of it.
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Has anyone sent that information to McDonald's Restaurants letting them know that this information has been posted on the internet and that the current web site that this information has been posted on is a highly regarded international motorcycle web site with a few thousand members who just may take it upon themselves to as a show of solitary and plan an international drive through on a given day this summer? Imagine thousands of bikers all hitting different McDonald's restaurants at the same time of day and just driving through nothing else and just think if everyone asked their fellow riders to join them, wild thought isn't it. Now imagine 25 / 50 / 100 bikers driving through, I do believe they would get the message. Not that it is their fault but just that they allow someone like this to be in a high level of their organization or in their organization at all. I mean hey we could all go to Burger King afterwords. As you can tell this stuff drives me nuts because the person who did this does not care that they killed someone, people like this will always get away with it and the proof is in the verdict / verdicts handed down to date to this person.
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Ok I have all good new on this. To recap I bought a Sunpro Sun Super Tach II CP7906 from EBay for around $15.00. Now I looked around asked questions even sent an email to Sun asking if this could be used on my bike (06 RSV) they said no. Well I went ahead and found what I thought I would need to get it working and well to keep it short, 1) Purchased the tach and set the tach to the 4 cyl setting. 2) Cut the foot off the tachs mounting bracket (hacksaw). 3) Home Depot bought a piece of 1½ x 1½ angle aluminum and cut a piece as wide as the tach mount about 1½” wide (hacksaw). 4) Cut one side of the alum (hacksaw) to match the lower portion of the tach mount and using 2 8-32 stainless screws and nylon locking nuts attached them together. 5) Check all screws and nuts for proper clearance before or as doing this part because a mistake here you will have to purchase another reservoir cover. Mount the aluminum to the front brake reservoir cover with 2 10-32 stainless screws and nuts, do not use nylon locking nuts but use standard nuts with washers (I put a "O" ring around each screw unnder the washer but found it was not necessary) with locktite you will see why when you go to mount it. Check all for proper clearance by doing a dry fit. 6) Take it all apart and paint the aluminum and the tach bracket semi glossy black, 2 coats. Now with the wires you will need to buy some wire wrap because the piece supplied is not long enough to hide the wires from where you mount the tach to the coils. 7) Go to the auto parts store and buy some black RTV silicone and use it to fill / seal all openings on the back of the tach then put a small bead around the mounting plate before you attach it. Now after you have everything set the way you want it fill the back of the attachment screw with the RTV, I went slowly here first making a flat washer plug out of a thin piece of cardboard and putting it in the hole then filling the hole with RTV. I also put an "O" ring (2.5”) around the back of the bezel of the tach and super glued it in place. I also removed the redline marker and put an "O" ring (2.5”) in there between the bezel and the lens and when I was done it floated in a bucket of water, I would call that water resistant. 8) Now for the hookups, all the wires are long enough to reach from the mount down through the current holders on the handlebar through the frame cover back towards the coil on the right hand side. The beauty here, connect both the red and the white (night light) wires from the tack to the lead on the coil that has the larger lug (on mine it is the bottom lug) the green wire goes to the smaller lug (on mine the top lug) the black I attached it to one of the mounting screws for the coil. Now as far as how I connected it I made a few small “Y” connectors which allowed me to leave the original wires intact and still get my connections. These were straight up connections nothing other then just set the tach to 4 cyl and your set. So for a total cost of around $25.00 and a little work I have a working tach. Now I have yet to “road test” it but letting the bike run for around 20 minutes revving the engine now and then it was rock solid no bouncing around and when I made small idle adjustments they were reflected in that tach as such. I also noticed that Sun has a chrome version of this tach for a few extra bucks but the way I look at it for the cost of the tach and $10.00 you can’t go wrong. I did find one place on line that sells the black tubing for running the wires through http://www.davebarton.com/blackvinyl.html
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"All of these add up to "oops sorry, I did not see him." Nobody is accountable for their actions in a car. If you "accidently" kill someone, it's called manslaughter. It needs to be applied to that 16 year old darling because she killed someone accidently. If I accidently kill someone hunting, you bet they will throw those charges at me." Ok let’s put this in a context everyone can understand. See I am a hunter also and I use a weapon that can send a projectile up to 7 miles and it isn't all that big just 6.5mm in dia. Now if I fire that bullet at a target with a backstop and the bullet bounces off a rock or anything I am still responsible for it even though I have no control of it. Now let’s say it goes through the wall of a house a mile away, yup I'm still responsible for it, and it kills a 5 year old. Now that will result in an involuntary manslaughter charge and there is no $65.00 surcharge here this is I'm paying the price because I did not check everything before pulling the trigger, accident or not. Now is this an accident or is it negligence on my part for not making sure the backstop was clear of debris that may cause to happen what I described above? Now is there any difference than me in my car not checking before I pull out to INSURE that what I perceive to be fact is? I am sorry that my actions pulling out got you killed, hurt or otherwise because I thought you were going to do something that you did not do? Should I also be held accountable for my inactions as well as my actions. Was it an accident , yes I did not mean to pull out in front of you, should I be punished for what I did yes I should because it is part of having the RIGHT TO DRIVE a car or any other mode of transportation. This slap on the hand stuff has to stop because it is getting people killed including cagers and their families in them. It’s time that the Police start cracking down on the speeders, the too bright headlights, the folks who feel it’s ok to do 40 in a 65 for no other reason than they can, change lanes without looking and using the excuse “I didn’t see them” yea right because you didn’t even bother to look. You also know using that excuse will guarantee a free ride out of trouble and if you want to see how effective that excuse is ask any lawyer and see what he says. Age should not make any difference and should the PARENTS of those under 21 be held accountable yes they should. I know a whole new can of worms here but you weren't there so why should you be... think about who let them have the keys in the first place and I bet you would think long and hard if you knew your lively hood was at stake if you were held RESPONSIBLE because you signed off and never held up your end during the training because "you didn't have the time" to train then correctly, now who is responsible? Right "it was only an accident no one is at fault it could of happened to anyone" and why because someone would have to take responsibility for thier actions....
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I found the info here after a bunch of Google searches http://www.motorcycle-journal.com/forum/marauder-m50-secret-hideaway/36171-tachometer-solutions.html I looked at the wiring diagram for the RSV and there is 1 lead comming from the crank trigger to the control box and from the box there is 1 lead to each coil. So I guess my next question would be if there is a wasted spark do they wasted on all coils at once (I wouldn't think so) or would it be something like fire on 1 waste on 2, fire on 3 waste 4, fire on 2 waste on 1, fire on 4 waste on 3. If this is true then the connections that "should" work would be on coils 1 and 2 or 3 and 4. Thing do get confusing.....
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Now I know there is a whole section on connecting up a Tach but bear with me. I purchased a Sun Super Tach II (2 1/8 diameter for $15.00) and want to use it on my 2006 RSV. Now my question is this, I believe the Tach as it is will not work correctly on the bike as it will only read from the 1 coil it is connected to there by when it says 1,000 RPM the motor is really doing 4,000 RPM. What I need to know is the RSV considered a single fire setup because of the 4 individual coils? Now I found this info on building an adapter for mutli coil setup (picture attached). I priced out the diodes and they are around .02 cents each (in a lot of 100) and the resistors I figure can't be much more and a small box to put them in less then $5.00. My question here is will this work on the bike as a single fire adapter if there are 4 setups made and each connected as shown in the picture to the coils with the Tach set to the 4 cylinders setting. I have water proofed the Tach to the point of it floats but would be better off saying it's more water resistant not water proof. When I get this done I'll upload a PDF on how I made the Tach water resistant (a few O rings), fixed the mounting, and got it all to work.
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Steve I bought one of these grills from you on EBay a long while back and it is worth every penny I spent on it. Right now I have 2 nice gouges in it from stones the I know for sure 1 of them would have done some heavy damage to the radiator. I just want to thank you for a great product and good luck with the surgery.
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Well having my bike fall off the kick stand once while idleing in the driveway, yea I was in a hurry and "thought" it would be ok to do, I can see why you would want it to rotate more then the ball will allow. And the little stunt of leaving it idleing in the driveway well I now have a new outer faring shell and chrome trim and the rest of the "minor" damage is going to be slowly replaced.
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Ok thats all I need to hear... Thanks!!!
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Has anyone tried one of these yet? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/motorcycle-trailer-swivel-hitch-coupler-goldwing-CHROME_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33653QQihZ016QQitemZ260273626629QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Looks like a good idea and with the trailer weight being low at 500lbs the only issue I can see is after a while the pin or the mount wearing out. I think the only thing I would add is some kind of fill under the pin to keep it from rattling when not in use.
