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twigg

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Everything posted by twigg

  1. Yep ... It's fair to say that any tires of the correct size and construction will be just fine. All the commonly available stuff is rated for heavier loads, and far higher speeds than we ride these bikes. Tires are rated for "worst case" ... which means for "H"- rated, 130 mph sustained at maximum load in decent ambient temps. Doubt many of us can hurt them much.
  2. The bolts are for a gas analyzer probe. If the inner is broken it would not be repairable. Apart from the access difficulties, the carbon embedded in the steel would not take a weld. Mine was broken at the top (the most likely place) and it heated there very fast. It could break at the other end, but the design probably makes that unlikely.
  3. Change all those rear lights for LED, Run HID passing lights and head light (42W each including ballast) and you can get yourself a warmer vest
  4. It's round and black. It sticks to the road, wears well and can carry the weight ... and it's cheap. The only caveat is that I do not ride hard .... but I do ride fast, for long distances and often in very hot weather. So far, so good.
  5. The perforated screen doesn't generally rust. It breaks free from its welds, probably due to vibration over time. I cut mine open because of a rattle, and it was perfect inside so I left it alone and it was welded closed again. The front downpipes are double-walled. In my case the inner had separated from the outer pipe, and was vibrating when it was hot. It took a pretty close examination to see where the pipe had sheared internally. I eventually diagnosed it when I realised that one downpipe was heating up much faster than the other, and all cylinders were firing. Then I went looking for a crack ... $20 spent on eBay took care of it.
  6. Boats.net is good too. Ronayres.com is often the cheapest for genuine parts.
  7. That is an excellent video.
  8. Yes, it will fit just fine The differences around the headlight are catered for by the other parts, not the fairing upper panel.
  9. I just changed a rear Bridgestone Spitfire II at 11 000 miles, the front shows little sign of wearing out or cupping. I had zero issues with the Bridgestone in just about every road condition you care to mention, so I fitted another. Just an opinion.
  10. I'd love one, but $31.50 is a bit too much for my budget for a switch plate. They are nice though. Steve
  11. That's pretty normal for older fluid. With the best will in the world, brake fluid works under extremely tough conditions. It alternately boils and freezes, and it absorbs moisture, and picks up dirt over time. Make it part of your annual maintenance to flush it through with new, even though the service schedule says every two years. It only takes a few minutes, and it could save your life.
  12. All of the above, and a few more: Tulsa!
  13. The Silverstar Ultra is a useful upgrade on the stock bulb. It doesn't even come close to the lighting available with HID. You had a bad kit, sorry about that.
  14. lol ... That is funny. You are talking to me about riding long distances?
  15. Not saying this shouldn't be the target, but it does exclude everyone who habitually rides solo. just sayin'
  16. Add me to the list
  17. This! I keep mine at halfway maximum. It rarely needs much topping up, and there is plenty of oil in there when the level is approaching the bottom of the glass.
  18. Arriving home after 1800 miles in about 32 hours. http://twigg.smugmug.com/photos/i-vhHKg9M/0/L/i-vhHKg9M-L.jpg
  19. We are just being inclusive
  20. It's just that BeadRider is loved and hated equally. There is no doubt that Chris has a great product, but try before you buy.
  21. Seriously Kevin, thanks for all that. I am not using the Road Sofa. On my 1700 mile trip the damned thing nearly killed me. It's probably better than the stock seat (so would be a wooden plank), but in the end it fails. I am using a stock seat with a Roho AirHawk, the latest one. That is covered with a sheepskin, about 1 1/4 inch pile that I bought on eBay. It covers the entire double seat so Jodie has stock seat plus sheepskin. That arrangement works for me in terms of actual seat comfort, at least for seven or eight hundred miles. Last weekend we covered 500 miles Sat AND Sun, with no butt problems (well Jodie did, I need to fix that). BeadRider is a great product, but it depends. After reading a lot of reports it seems that those with a skinny butt cannot use a BeadRider effectively, those who have a little padding love them. The skinny butts do better on the AirHawk. All of this is tinkering, when the answer is to get a custom seat made, that supports correctly and places you right where you need to be .... that is the expensive option but some of my rides are extreme, so I might just have to bite that bullet. The problem of windblast is easily dealt with by fitting a Madstad Adjustable Windshield ... a project that is on the list. So ... butt raised, feet lowered and an adjustable shield should take care of it.
  22. There are a bunch of folk who will craft you a seat, especially for that kind of money. These guys consistently get the best reviews, although the Meyer seats are liked by many too. http://www.day-long.com/index.html Corbin, not so much and I haven't heard much about Mustang.
  23. There is another way. I could fix a plate behind the current mount, then make the plate thicker at the lower area, effectively moving the peg back out again. That would make the whole new mount adjustable front to back too.
  24. Fixed it for ya
  25. You are thinking along the same lines as me. I'll go take a look shortly, but, sitting on the sofa, I too wondered about the gear shift and brake positions. I think there is enough adjustment up and down, it's the side shuft that could be the issue.
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