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twigg

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Everything posted by twigg

  1. The Morgan Carbtune uses stainless steel rods, and needs no calibrating. If it's out, send it back because the tubes are matched at the factory.
  2. It's not homemade. It's a professional machined fitting. The top part is a cover which screws down onto an internal thread. The peg is machined at the top to engage into something. It's a very nice looking unit, I just don't know the origin.
  3. lol .... I doubt anyone ever hauled grain wagons with it
  4. I did! It looks different to the Bushtec Pin.
  5. What you are being told here is this: In a four wire system the metal parts of the appliance have their own, dedicated, ground. When it is converted to a three wire system, the way the case is grounded is by bonding it to the return .... a rubbish practise that should never have been allowed! Anyway .... If it's converted to three wire WITHOUT that bonding strap there is a problem. In the event that the appliance develops and electrical fault causing a live wire to touch a metal part, the whole appliance will be "hot" with no path to ground ..... Until someone touches it!
  6. This hitch was fitted to my '86 VR when I bought it, and so far I have dismally failed to identify it. Any ideas? http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i418/twigg2324/1986%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Royale/IMG_0501.jpg http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i418/twigg2324/1986%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Royale/IMG_0502.jpg http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i418/twigg2324/1986%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Royale/IMG_0505.jpg
  7. Don't take my word for this but .... Sounds like your old one was a three wire 24V, and the new one is wired for 4-wire. The blues will be hot, the white Return and the 4th wire should be a ground. You need an electrician to confirm that .... I'm just saying what it is you probably have.
  8. Unusually, boats.net are the cheapest I have found too. Must be their birthday or something.
  9. That method is for the gauges with dials .... they need syncing first. Carbtune is a manometer and doesn't work like that.
  10. Just an FYI. I downloaded that manual before I paid the subscription.
  11. And if that's not the problem, then the shock might need rebuilding or replacing. Check that the tire pressure isn't way too high too.
  12. Some synthetics have low-friction additives. The ones made for bikes don't. I still think, btw, that Heavy Duty Diesel Engine Oil is the best bang for the buck available for all but high performance motorcycle engines. The soft tune on our bikes makes it a no-brainer.
  13. Where did you get them, how many do you need? Mine are old and I would replace them as a matter of course. Thanks
  14. Just for information It's never okay to run without a thermostat. If it were, the makers wouldn't have wasted the money! In the short term, especially in summer, it won't hurt much, but in winter the motor will take longer to warm up to operating temp .... sometimes much longer. The problem with that is that engines are designed to work best in a temp. range, and they do most of their wearing out when too cold. So wear would be potentially increased significantly, gas consumption would rise and the oil would take longer to be effective. Hope this helps.
  15. A Sparktester inline with the plugs will help. They start at around $5 [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-20610-Inline-Spark-Tester/dp/B0002STSC6]Amazon.com: Lisle 20610 Inline Spark Tester: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31ZD5T1ARRL.@@AMEPARAM@@31ZD5T1ARRL[/ame]
  16. I rest my case.
  17. What is the light output like on those Sunspots? PIAA driving lights can cost hundreds of dollars each! $119 sounds very reasonable.
  18. Standard instrument bulbs draw about 3W each, and there are hundreds of them Replacing six nets you enough for a pair of heated gloves on low. Tail lights are bigger, the savings greater. HID Headlights consume less than two thirds of the power draw of a halogen, for about 3x the light output. Not all HIDs are the same ..... pay for the good ones because bulb placement is absolutely critical.
  19. Right now I wouldn't trust my VR to sit the right way on a lavatory ... give me a couple of months The Triple, otoh .... yeah, I'd trust that!
  20. A decent LED battery monitor would warn you that the battery was getting low long before it had insufficient power to run the ignition system. At that point, simply switching something off would re-charge the battery. HID headlamps consume half the power of halogens .... and don't overlook tail lights and instrument lights. You can save significant amounts of power draw by replacing these with LEDs.
  21. Some people in this thread need to "check their attitudes" at the door! It's easy to play the "have a go hero" in an internet forum, but this talk of defending yourself with "what you have under your shirt" is infantile and nonsense. You could end up very dead .... For a vest??? Consider this: Motorcycle Clubs, albeit without the legitimacy of law, consider certain patch combinations very much in the same way that Corporations treat registered trademarks. You can no more stick an Apple Logo on your crappy mp3 player, than you can wear the patches you are not entitled to. That's the view. Apple would hit you with an army of lawyers, the 1% ers would hit you with a chain. Take your pick.
  22. The GPS is a Garmin 2720 that I bought on eBay for about $60. Best money I ever spent. It is held on a RAM mount on the left handlebar. The phone is a T-Mobile G2. RAM don't make a mount specifically for it, but the universal finger mount holds it perfectly. Again it is on the left bar. Originally I had the GPS on the right master cylinder bolts, but it was too close and had to move. I have a Motocomm Rider ST1 Intercom that was dangling from the right bar. The phone plugs straight into the intercom and the GPS would too, if I had the correct cable, so I was managing without the voice commands. The good .... It works! The Phone can play music all day and the quality is at least "listenable:. I rarely listen to music while driving, but if I wanted to, I could. The phome comes through the headphones loud and clear. Better, actually, than just using it normally. When I called Jodie I could hear everything, even at 75mph. Trouble was, my microphone was acting up and she couldn't hear me. It worked when it was tested so I have yet to figure out whether it was faulty or the wind noise was just too much for the circuits to handle. When I needed to make adjustments I left the main route in the Garmin, and programmed Google Navigation in the phone for intermediate stops. The voice directions came over the intercom loud and clear. The phone was also hooked up to Google Latitude and I made a webpage where people could follow me with real time position updates. Quite a few folk took advantage of that, and did the ride with me. Latitude works very well wherever the phone has a data signal. I want a better Intercom. I now have a Garmin 1490T and a Bluetooth Intercom should work with everything I use. I am not sure about the VR intercom, even if I manage to get it working, and I will still need to source a passenger remote control. http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i418/twigg2324/IBA%20Saddle%20Sore%201000/IMG_0403-2.jpg
  23. The Iron Butt Magazine actually asked me for it. They have it, with pics. They are holding it over for a later edition.
  24. If you have a Garmin, you should also be able to use Mapsource. It's rather easier to be able to plan a route directly on your PC, then automatically transfer it, and all it's waypoints, straight to the GPS.
  25. Your wish, is my command http://s1092.photobucket.com/albums/i418/twigg2324/1986%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Royale/
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