twigg
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Everything posted by twigg
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Trunk Rack
twigg replied to frmarksiegelhotmail.com's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
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The manual you just downloaded also has a chart of the Yamaha recommended settings for different riding conditions. They would make a good place to start.
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Craigslist has a warning, front and center. Any offers that involve shipping vehicles are almost always a scam. Craigslist is a local service, it was designed to replaced newspaper classifieds. Just.Don't.Do.It
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The second Manual is complete ... for the 1300 from '86 on. Mine had about three extra pages at the front relating to a supplement I don't need, so I left them out. Full operating instructions for the CLASS and the Audio are included in the relevant sections.
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And Fedex will print and bind it for a reasonable cost
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There are no Third Party manuals, but the Yamaha Service Manual is available for download ... I had mine printed. It has full instructions on how to use the CLASS. Basically, set the ignition key to ACC, and the screen should run through a light up routine ... You will know it when you see it. Then it will stop and be ready to adjust. Read the manual .... It's harder to explain than to actually do
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There is an alternative to scooping out foam, which can compromise the seating. You can make the nose of the seat narrower, by removing the cover and re-shaping the foam at the front. That allows the riders legs to be closer together when he/she wants to put their feet down, and effectively "lowers" the bike. You can gain another half inch by raising the forks in the yoke, and you can do that without compromising the handling. Wearing good boots will also gain about 1/2". For more drastic measures you need a seat specialist to help build a new seat, and it's not cheap.
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Been there, done that. You're not the first and won't be the last. It's about communication, and Forums, etc, are a new form of communication which have a learning curve and, for some folk, that can be quite steep (don't ask me how I know this). Long ago I learned something .... probably from Bulletin Board days, and it is simply this: Take what you need, give where you can, and ignore the rest By the way. That was one of the nicest internet apologies I have seen in a long time
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I used to ride a lot. I put a lot of miles on both my Yamaha FJ1200A and the Honda VFR750. Both made trips from the UK to the south of France. I also had a 1958 Matchless G11CS which I put quite a few miles on, including two classic bike rallies in Northern France. They were great weekends. I haven't had a bike since I came to the US until about 10 months ago when I bought the XS750. That was a shed of a bike, but recently did 1000 miles in 21 hours ... so I seem to have acquired a few skills over the years Anyway ... The Triple has been joined by the rattiest 1986 VR that you ever saw. When you do see it it will still be a bit ratty, but it will run like clockwork! twigg
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If you want your credit wrecked, and endless problems for the next two years then go right ahead, do as he asks. And you still won't have sold your car
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No, because it's dangerous, You risk the tyre overheating and breaking down just when you need it to grip the most. There is no real answer to this. Squared off tyres are a function of highway driving .... change them when you can feel the ridge (and you will feel it). Consider it part of the running costs. I used to budget a rear tyre every season, and a front every other. 4000 miles from the rear and 8000 from the front with moderate to quick riding. If I regularly went quick ... then 2000 from the rear, and they were $200 Metzlers. We are luckier than that with the big touring bikes. It's a sad fact that bikes get through tyres.
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1000 miles around a traffic circle should help. You will only get into trouble when you try to round off the "other" side of the tyre. :rotf:
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questions concerning exhaust collector
twigg replied to hipshot's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
It's also worth noting that these engines are in a very low state of tune. They are 1300cc motors tuned to deliver less than 100bhp. It's not inconceivable that they could be made to deliver anything up to about four times that amount of power, although they might not last long. Modest power gains of 30 to 40 bhp would be easy but here is the thing .... You cannot change just one thing without a knock on effect. Even changing the air filter for a free-flowing type affects the carburation, and changing the exhaust affects it more. It's likely that opening up the exhaust leans out the mid range and wide open throttle conditions ... by how much is not known until you do it. Be prepared, if you fit a K&N Filter and remove baffles, to raise the needles a notch, and/or increase the main jet size. And you might get away with none of these changes. You won't know until you try. What I am saying is that simply fitting a free flowing exhaust, because it looks great or sounds nice is noy always a straightforward proceedure (and sometimes it is). A dyno session with a decent technician can work wonders. -
It was the 1985 LTD It was only available for one year. While it wasn't without issues, mostly they have been resolved and there are still a lot of them happily cruising highways.
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The difference between us is that I do not claim my opinions to be fact. Your statements may indeed be valid, but they are not facts, they are, as yet unproven assertions. That is what folk react against.
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You are quite correct. The difference in what you are saying and the OP is that you are not claiming that there won't be connector problems. We all know that most electrical problems actually boil down to connectors in the end, be they plastic offerings or just corroded grounds. It makes no sense to assert that the connector will be fine, when, more accurately, the "connector should be fine" is a much less controversial statement.
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You may, or may not, be correct, but you are making some bold claims with the word of one person to substantiate them. In the place I usually post, and believe me, it's rather more demanding than here, we have a saying: "Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence". You are falling short of this test and I'm happy to share the reasons why. There has been, and remains, an issue with stator wiring not just in our bikes, but notably in Honda Gold Wings. For reasons I am not clear about, many have suffered melted connectors and related issues, to the point where it is a "known problem" and there are detailed fixes available. In this instance you are fitting a High Output Stator. That is not original equipment and not certified by Yamaha as suitable for the wiring .... and certainly not for 25 year old wiring. In that instance it is eminently sensible to "go the extra mile", and build in some security. Hard wiring the stator does this. As evidence for your claim you offer only the opinion of one mechanic ... and he isn't a motorcycle mechanic. You may be right ... Indeed I hope you are, but your claim is bold and I see nothing in it to fill me with confidence. If you are not correct, then the consequences could range from minor inconvenience, through getting stranded, at night, miles from help, and on up to a major electrical fire on the highway, with your wife on the back. It's a matter for you the path you choose.
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Arriving home after my successful, if cold and wet, SaddleSore 1000. Bike is a 1977 Yamaha XS750-2D http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i418/twigg2324/IBA%20Saddle%20Sore%201000/IMG_0421.jpg
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Re: Your sig. That's an impressive list of States .... so miss out the two in the Lower 48, but ya gotta ride the Haul Road to Deadhorse
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questions concerning exhaust collector
twigg replied to hipshot's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Do you have a link for that? How much does he charge? -
Cam cover gasket and valve clearances
twigg replied to twigg's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I agree .... and 0.07 mm is too tight. Sure it might easily cover another 30k before it burns .... but it will happen, so they are going to be fixed now. Some of those valves are still within spec, and others a bare 0.01 mm out. That's pretty impressive given that I have no way of knowing how close to the lower limit they were when the engine left the factory. -
Cam cover gasket and valve clearances
twigg replied to twigg's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Right .... A few corrections are needed here. I have now measured all the valve clearances and they are a mixed bag: Cylinder 1 Exh 0.14mm Exh 0.15 Inl 0.13 Inl 0.14 Cylinder 2 Exh 0.15 Exh 0.15 Inl 0.07* Inl 0.07* Cylinder 3 Exh 0.15 Exh 0.15 Inl 0.12 Inl 0.12 Cylinder 4 Exh 0.11* Exh 0.11* Inl 0.09* Inl 0.09* The starred valves are way too tight and cylinder 4 is tightest of all. It is noticeable that the front bank is worn more than the rear. If the clearances were all like the rear bank I would probably leave them alone for a while .... But now I have to adjust them! The bike is showing 56 000 miles and I suspect they have never been touched. The engine itself is running smooth and strong. -
Cool rant .... I'd give it an 8! There are sound reasons for hardwiring the stator, ask the Gold Wing owners whose connectors have melted, and that was the least of their problems. Chances are yours will be just fine, but if it isn't you might want to re-visit this thread
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clutch flushing
twigg replied to jteller1's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
Almost every car and bike manual on the planet recommends 2 yearly intervals .... you kinda grow up somehow just "knowing" that. I still think that it's so quick and easy that doing it every year makes sense. Brakes and clutch. It's not like bleeding, when you learn new swear words trying to get all the air out -
DOT5 vs DOT3/4
twigg replied to UnderDog's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Yes, it's all about the fluid boiling point. Those fluids are designed for the race track, where extremely high temperatures are generated .... Your Venture brakes will fade and die long before they ever reach that point. If your bike specifies DOT 3, or DOT 4 there is no need to out think Yamaha. Just use what the book tells ya to use. Most systems will happily run either DOT 3 or DOT 4, it's way more important that you bleed it properly and change it annually. I know the book says every other year ... make it part of your spring routine, your brakes will love you.