twigg
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Everything posted by twigg
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This is probably true if they did warranty work. If you paid for the work, and the parts, then the parts removed are yours, and they should be returned to you if you ask.
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I'd like to see his view from a bit further back. If he can see through the corner and is straightening up now for the next right-hander, then he is on the best line
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We all used to work out if we had "Shoei" heads or "Arai" heads.
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Be very careful cutting holes in wind shields. Clearview cut BEFORE moulding to avoid stress cracking. If you do this (and it can be done), the round vents will be safer .... If you want a square hole, then drill the corners first and leave the corners round when you cut the opening. Smooth the edges very carefully and leave no chips or other sharp points. You should be fine.
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Installed my SpeedOhealer
twigg replied to shikano53's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
On my Triple, the speedo is 4% high. The odo is almost dead on accurate, which probably reflects the new front tyre inflated correctly. When I did the 1000 miles, the odometer recorded, I think, 1036 miles, and the GPS 1022. The GPS is much more accurate, but not perfect because it loses out when changing elavation ... but not by much. I can't use a speddohealer because the speedo is mechanical, but I can calibrate it with the GPS running flat the GPS is extremely accurate, so just compare the two and you're done. I have to say that the Triple speedo just points roughly in the direction of the speed it thinks you might be doing -
Slipping clutch on my 89 royale
twigg replied to dz's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
At risk of opening up some terrible "oil debate" I will add that I agree. All I have ever used in motorcycle engines is Heavy Duty Diesel Engine Oil. The specs support it and in many cases the only reason that it is not specified for motorcycles is that it hasn't been tested on them The reason for that is marketing .... If those oils were tested and certified for M/C use, then they wouldn't be able to rebadge the same stuff and sell it at three times the price. But diesel motor oil meets all the required standards, and it's relatively cheap .... and it contains no friction modifiers. It also contains few if any viscosity enhancers, which are the main issue when we try to use car oils in bikes. They are fine for cars, but bike gearboxes wreck the long chain molecules added to make the base oil a multigrade, and can be completely broken down in as few as 1500 miles. There is some helpful knowledge in this .... If you are away from home, stuck and the only oil you can get is motor car multigrade, then you will do no damage at all provided you don't thrash the nuts off it, and get it changed in under 1000 miles. Get one without friction modifiers or the clutch will slip. Just adding ...... The reason they are designed this way is all about shear strength of the oil. In a car engine, the oil is not subject to anything like the shear forces that it is in motorcycles. The main reason for this is the gearbox. So motor car multigrades use a base weight oil, and add viscosity enhancers to make it multigrade .. so far so good. They also add detergents and friction modifiers to some, which is very bad for us Diesel engines are different. The compression ratios are at least double those in a bike or gas car ... typically over 20:1. This subjects the oil in the main bearings to enormous shear forces, so the viscosity enhancers don't work ... They get quickly chopped up. So they make diesel moter oil by blending real oils ... which is just what we need them to do. -
I'll always support anyone attempting this .... Few try, fewer succeed. You can read about mine here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=669111 Good luck with it ... You'll hurt when it's over, and feel great If you want to know ANYTHING, just ask.
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It's a terrible realisation ... Came to me years ago, and it still hurts
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Slipping clutch on my 89 royale
twigg replied to dz's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
That sounds pretty normal! The way to tell if it's slipping is to get up to about 20mph, then shift into 3rd or 4th gear. Once it's in gear, open the throttle .... If the engine speed increases without a corresponding speed increase, it's slipping. If you put it into too high a gear and try this, it will bog down and may stall, unless the clutch slips. Wet clutches are designed to slip a bit, it doesn't hurt them unless it's excessive. If the clutch isn't slipping in normal riding, then you probably don't have much to worry about. -
There are also coolant joints running between the heads. One front bank, one rear. They are plastic and keep the oil and water separate with three o-rings. If they fail, the two could mix. In cars, I agree, most often this issue signifies a blown head gasket ... and it might do here too. But the other suggestions are easier fixes, and worth trying first. A compression and leakdown test should help indicate a head gasket problem .... That would be my starting point.
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Of course it's not a Harley! There is way too little oil on those lower frame .... spars .... for it to be
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Nah ... the only thing likely to annoy the HD guys is the lack of chrome
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More gems here: http://1800recycling.com/2010/06/motorcycles-recycled-objects/
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Shot at an undisclosed location .... At last, a Harley for the 21st century! http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i418/twigg2324/bike4wood.jpg http://s1092.photobucket.com/albums/i418/twigg2324/?action=view¤t=bike4wood.jpg
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First, I love RAM Mounts and have several. A real bonus is that you can buy suction or screw bases separately and mount them in the car ... Two for the price of one and a bit. I mount the phone on the bars and it's just fine. With the GPS I found that bar mounting brought it too close to me. I had to look away from the road and re-focus on the GPS screen. In the end I moved it to the fairing just in front of the windshield. Perfect. Mine is a Garmin, but I don't suppose there is much difference.
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I'm glad you did it that way. The problem is that folk really do trust cashiers and certified checks. As we generally only use them for large purchases, it does mean that if you ever get scammed, the amounts involved will not be trivial.
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Yes! Is the short answer. Not necessarily is the better answer. Cashiers Checks can be forged, and often the issuing bank will only work that out when they actually get the check in their hands ... It can take a while. It's a false impression that a Cashiers Check is as good as cash ... It isn't, not even close. It got to be thought that way because forging them was almost unheard of ... Not any more.
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I'm glad that worked out well. A bit of advice for the next time. Three days is long enough for a check to clear, but it is not long enough for your bank to send it to the issuing bank and then find out it's a dud. That takes up to three weeks. It happens, regularly, that forged checks "clear", then the bank wants the money back. They will come after you for the money, and the Police will try to charge YOU with the fraud. Deposit the check ... Have a note put on the account that you asked for the authenticity to be verified, and do not touch the funds until the Bank tells you it is genuine. One day that will save you from endless grief.
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Trunk Rack
twigg replied to frmarksiegelhotmail.com's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
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The manual you just downloaded also has a chart of the Yamaha recommended settings for different riding conditions. They would make a good place to start.
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Craigslist has a warning, front and center. Any offers that involve shipping vehicles are almost always a scam. Craigslist is a local service, it was designed to replaced newspaper classifieds. Just.Don't.Do.It
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The second Manual is complete ... for the 1300 from '86 on. Mine had about three extra pages at the front relating to a supplement I don't need, so I left them out. Full operating instructions for the CLASS and the Audio are included in the relevant sections.
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And Fedex will print and bind it for a reasonable cost
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There are no Third Party manuals, but the Yamaha Service Manual is available for download ... I had mine printed. It has full instructions on how to use the CLASS. Basically, set the ignition key to ACC, and the screen should run through a light up routine ... You will know it when you see it. Then it will stop and be ready to adjust. Read the manual .... It's harder to explain than to actually do
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There is an alternative to scooping out foam, which can compromise the seating. You can make the nose of the seat narrower, by removing the cover and re-shaping the foam at the front. That allows the riders legs to be closer together when he/she wants to put their feet down, and effectively "lowers" the bike. You can gain another half inch by raising the forks in the yoke, and you can do that without compromising the handling. Wearing good boots will also gain about 1/2". For more drastic measures you need a seat specialist to help build a new seat, and it's not cheap.