Jump to content

twigg

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    1,423

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by twigg

  1. twigg
    Unless you are riding in your garage you shouldn't worry too much about the carbon monoxide. You are smelling hydro-carbon residue and that tiny bit won't hurt for the short time you get it. The turn down caps would probably help. What will also help is wearing earplugs inside your helmet. The exhaust is mostly low frequency noise, and the earplugs will deal with it nicely while not interfering too much with intercoms, etc.
  2. twigg
    Nice looking sig. map you have there. You could meet up with him on your way to "do" Alaska
  3. twigg
    You sure you are looking at the correct part? Those plugs (which I believe are for frost protection) are about $5 each for the 1st Gen. The screw thread is to assist removal, it's spark plug sized.
  4. twigg
    Any MultiMeter that will display RPM will work. The connector from the coils is right there under the left hand side panel. You can back probe any coil and connect the other lead to a good ground. I think the coils fire twice per revolution, so you would need to use the setting for 8 Cylinder engines.
  5. twigg
    I got my 1490T Refurbished for US$132 from Amazon.
  6. twigg
    Start here: http://www.garmin.com/us/maps/numaps_lifetime
  7. twigg
    All spot on! The 1156/1157 LEDs are just fine in my Triple. As for the flasher. This is only an issue with the older thermal flashers. It is not a problem for electronic flasher so don't buy load resistors, spend $10 on a flasher unit at your Autoparts store. Not sure if that affects the self-canceling ... If it does, then a compatible flasher will have to be sourced.
  8. twigg
    Garmin sells a bunch of models with Lifetime Maps ... At least they do in the US.
  9. twigg
    Yes, they were both looking nice and toasty I suspect that the fault found with the vacuum unit will be the reason ... Fuel still burning when it hits the headers.
  10. twigg
    Okay .... A meter across that unit is showing 5.95V It doesn't change when sucking or blowing the vacuum tube. The reading should be 2V. I guess that suggests that the timing is not advancing correctly, and that would fully explain the glowing headers. So yes, it sounds like it needs replacing.
  11. twigg
    On it ... I'll get back to you. I didn't really suspect the timing because the thing runs so well, right up to the redline. But it doesn't hurt to check.
  12. twigg

    gas

    twigg replied to junkyardog53's topic in Watering Hole

    Possibly because they were tuned for minimum emissions. That is as lean as possible, with the ignition advanced as far as possible .... but maybe not and there is an easy way to tell. Run the tank empty and add a couple of gallons of Regular. Find a hill and accelerate up it in a slightly higher gear than normal. If it "pinks" you will hear it. If it doesn't, then you are good to go on Regular.
  13. twigg
    Yeah, I figured. You can't tell if the fronts are glowing too because the headers are double walled. Usual causes of this are: 1. You fitted a Formula One engine, and it's normal 2. The timing is out 3. The engine is running lean Where to start!!! Well I can rule out #1
  14. twigg
    The key to that is about the hitch weight. Hitch weight is added to the load the bike is carrying. It has the most effect of any of the weight on the bike because it is at the furthest possible rear location. Under braking there is an additional down component too, so I'd say go on the slightly harder setting and run a few test rides. You want the smoothest backend without bouncing or bottoming or harshness and it might take a bit of working out.
  15. twigg
    The High Beam is on a lot of the time, so let's make that five. Add that 15W to the tail lights and the many other "extras" in light bars around the back, plus the running lights and that is a great deal of power wasted. As for the mixed results with replacements .... LEDs got a bad rep early on. They have improved enormously and it's mainly a matter of picking the correct versions.
  16. twigg
    I guess my rear exhaust headers are not supposed to glow, but they were yesterday. The plugs do not show signs of running particularly lean but there is some heat getting back there from somewhere. Currently the carbs are off for a full rebuild, and the front exhaust headers too, to get at the starter. I noticed that one of the headers was very loose in the collector, and this would probably be contributing to the "spitting" back through #1 and #4 carbs. I suspect the butterfly valve seals aren't helping much, the intake boots seem to be sound. Anyway ... I was wondering if anyone else had experienced this. I do know that some exhaust headers, on some bikes do have a "glowing" issue, but I didn't think that the Venture Royale had this ... er ... feature. Any thoughts?
  17. twigg
    Some of those pilot circuit passages are very small. Seafoam is good, but it won't clean out the hardened varnish. Yer gonna have to pull the carbs and do it properly. Which means .... Splitting the rack and, one carb at a time, removing as much as possible, especially all the rubber parts, and boiling them in either pinesol or lemon juice. When they are clean, carb cleaner sprayed in every passage will come out somewhere. There are eight diaphagms to deal with. Replace any with holes. Don't forget the butterfly shaft seals, they are delicate, and they are very old. They will be hard and not sealing as intended, if at all. By the way, I think I have found a substitute for those seals, which are stupidly expensive, and I can let you know in about a week. Replace the jet-block gasket, the needle valves and the float bowl O-ring. Everything else should be okay. There are some tiny o-rings, but they tend to survive quite well. Before the carbs go back on the bike, set the float levels.They are probably okay, but they are easier to measure on the bench. Bench sync the carbs and fully sync once they are running. Check every rubber pipe on and around the carbs. They are all cheap, just get lengths from an auto factor and cut to size. Replace the vacuum caps. Seafoam is great when a bike has been sitting a few months and is hesitant to run well. When it's been sitting for years it can't cope. All of that is harder to describe than to do If you want advice on removing the butterfly valves, just ask ... it is off-putting to many, which is why it's rarely done, but it's an easy job really. KEEP THE CARBS SEPARATE. And take photos, lots of photos during removal and disassembly. They really help later.
  18. twigg
    If you are concerned about the power consumption of the aux. lights, then you can save a lot of power by swapping out all the regular bulbs for LEDs. For example ... There are about a dozen 3.4W bulbs in the instrument panel, many of them on all the time. Swap six of those for LEDs and you just saved about 18W. Do the same with the tail lights and running lights and you just recouped the difference between the 35W Burners, and the 55W Burners ... and you get the benefit of the extra light on the road. The 60W/55 Headlamp offers further savings if you convert to HID. You can cut the power consumption to 42W and get a longer lasting bulb with about 3X the light output. Avoid the higher color temps and stick as close to 4300k as you can (5000 is okay).
  19. twigg

    gas

    twigg replied to junkyardog53's topic in Watering Hole

    There was a recent consumer test in the UK about this issue. The findings were simple. There is about a 1 1/2% improvement in fuel economy, and comparative reduction in wear, for an average price premium of 5%. The conclusion was simple. If you choose to run Premium gas blends when your engine doesn't need it, you will pay more for gas and get no discernible benefit .... but the next owner of the bike will thank you!
  20. twigg
    You need 32 inch for the starter and hround, and about 12 inch or less for the battery positive to solenoid ... Which also needs a main harness hot cable from the lug. Go take a look at the "Hot Sarting" thread. I made some about 3 days ago ...
  21. twigg
    Thanks Condor
  22. twigg
    I need to replace the front right fairing panel on my '86 VR. I might be able to repair the one I have, but it is quite badly broken. Does anyone know if all the First Gens used the same front fairing? I read somewhere that they did. If that is the case I will only have a color problem. So ... Will the front fairing panels from the early first gens fit the '86 on models? Thanks.
  23. twigg
    I got my driving lights from Walmart. They were $18 for the set and are 55W. I don't know how well they will perform. They are not PIAAs, but they cost less than a PIAA bulb, and have had very good reviews.
  24. twigg
    You need to get with a custom seat-builder and see if they can produce a seat that will balance your hips the way you need.
  25. twigg
    Mine was about $50 from HID Country. It's fitted to my Triple. If I fit one to the VR I would investigate fitting a full projector headlight inside the original Yamaha unit. That involves removing the glass, but should be doable.
×
×
  • Create New...