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twigg

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  1. twigg
    Gary I have the official service manual with the correct wiring diagram. It definitely shows that the black return from sender wire is also grounded. When I ground this wire the Fuel Gauge works normally. It is possible that the ground is located inside the CMU. I had that open and resoldered everything that looked even remotely suspect. I'm reluctant to do that again because everytime you open those things there is a real risk of something else breaking. My fuel gauge now works, so I'll leave it there but I'll come back here if it quits on me
  2. twigg
    It's done guys ... fixed. The wiring diagram shows that the return to the CMU is grounded also. When I ground the wire from either end the problems goes away. So somewhere on the frame is an unconnected ground which I shall either find or replace
  3. twigg

    tool

    twigg replied to oldgoat's topic in Watering Hole

    Easy out! [ame=http://www.amazon.com/piece-Easy-Screw-Bolt-Extractor/dp/B0002UJNWE]Amazon.com: 8 piece Easy Out Screw Bolt Extractor Set: Home Improvement@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/510s0pU6RfL.@@AMEPARAM@@510s0pU6RfL[/ame] There ya go
  4. twigg
    He bookmarked this thread ... He just knows he will need it sooner or later
  5. twigg
    I had another thought. The wiring diagram shows that wire is grounded, as well as running back to the CMU ... So there could be a disconnected ground on the frame somewhere ... If that's the case then grounding the sender return would explain the continuity AND fix the problem.
  6. twigg
    Steve hands Gary a beer. So here is what is happening: If I ground the sender return, then the fuel gauge shows FULL. It should, the tank is full. If I ground the back of the CMU the gauge shows FULL. In both cases, once I remove the ground, the gauge decays, about 10 seconds per bar, to empty and the light comes on. All apparently normal. BUT ... The black wire, from the CMU to the Sender is showing continuity ... and it shouldn't, there should be a break in it. I have two choices here. I can run the sender to a convenient ground, or I can replace the whole wire from the sender to the CMU. Both are easy. Is there likely to be a problem with simply grounding locally the sender return wire? I'm thinking that there should be a problem doing this because the CMU wants a complete circuit, and I don't quite see how it is getting one ... Yet the gauge is working. Maybe it isn't working, maybe it will be stuck on FULL until I fix it correctly. This is an opportunity for a second beer
  7. twigg
    So .... I grounded the return side of the Sender to the battery negative, turned on the ignition and instantly had five bars showing on the gauge. Seems like we have an answer, and I owe someone a beer
  8. twigg
    The CMU is delivering 5.16V to the sender. Off to try bypassing the ground ... which I thought I did last night but I'll do again and wait longer for a response.
  9. twigg
    That's why I was asking. The voltage at the sender is just over 5V. There must be a threshold below which the CMU won't recognise the signal and I wondered if that was the fault.
  10. twigg
    Gary you are being very helpful If there was an issue with the sender, then the CMU would be showing nearly full right now, because the resistance through that unit is showing 60 Ohms on my meter. As it is, it is showing an empty tank, with the gas pump and the flashing red light. I have a CMU with a gear position indicator. Currently showing "N", as it should. I still don't know what voltage the CMU should be supplying through the Sender.
  11. twigg
    S'ok ... you have as much right to have confusion cleared us as anyone else Put simply .... The throttle is a two cable pull open, pull closed system. There is a spring which will close the throttles too, which is why the hand grip will spring back. The throttle closes as far as the throttle stop, which is adjustable for idle speed. Here is where the confusion lies .... The cables open and close ALL four carbs, at the same time and by the same amount because the carbs are mechanically linked together and the throttle acts simply on one end of the linkage. In order that the throttles all have the same vacuum, the linkage is adjustable, and that is what you are adjusting when you sync the carbs. In this instance, there is one screw that syncs carb 1 to carb 2 (Left bank) and one that syncs carb 3 to carb 4 (Right bank). When that has been done there is a third screw that sync the right bank to the left bank. ... Job done. After each step, the throttle stop is adjusted to maintain the 1050 idle speed. When that is done you can move on to setting the idle mixtures (the "idle drop" method is close enough) ... Then do the sync all over again. Through it all you shouldn't need to touch the cables if you adjusted the free play first, and because you are syncing on the throttle stop, the cables play no part in the process. Oh ... make doubly sure that the chokes are fully closed or that will bugger up the idle and the idle mixture. The chokes are not traditional "air restrictors", the are actually an extra circuit that enrichens the mixture at idle .... Which is also why you should leave the throttle well alone for cold starts. If you try to gas it you are effectively bypassing the choke.
  12. twigg
    This is good advice. Actually, any decent voltmeter will give you that info .. The Battery Bug is a bit pricey Stick a multi-meter across the terminals with the engine running at around 3000 rpm. The voltage should be around 14.5V. If it's below 14 there is a charging problem ... either a ground or wiring issue, or a bad stator. If it's above 15V then the Reg/Rec is on it's way out and should be replaced before it blows all your bulbs and wrecks the new battery.
  13. twigg
    Thanks mate ... The sender is fine. It working right across the range. What I need to know is whether or not the voltage passed through the sender is correct, and which bits of the CMU control this function. I'm perfectly happy to get the soldering iron out again and make sure all those connections are fine before I spring for a new CMU.
  14. twigg
    What Goose said .... Oh ... Don't forget those tiny o-rings under the idle mixture screws. If they are bad it can play havoc with the idle speed ... You'll never get it right.
  15. twigg
    The idle mixture screws are directly below each diaphragm cover about 1/2 below the edge of the cover. They may be covered by a tamperproof plug, just dig it out.
  16. twigg
    It doesn't work like this. The throttle cables are a simply Push/Pull, effectively it's just one cable. Adjust the cables to the book spec before you touch the carbs, and they will have no such variable effect. Those cables really will not stretch much, the tension on them is tiny. In any event, it's the cable adjustment that takes care of that. You are mixing up two different things and thinking that there is a link between them when there isn't. The carbs are all effectively balanced to one reference carb whose vacuum isn't adjustable. So you set the left bank, then the right bank, then the left to right. Those settings are independent of any cable issues. The reason that the vacuum varies at different rpms is simply due to the dynamics of the system. You are dealing with 4 carbs, and even if they were identical, the airflow to each isn't. So they will vary, a bit, throughout the rev range and we can only sync them at one spot. The debate is about "which spot", and if everything is in good order the differences really should be marginal.
  17. twigg
    Motorcycle batteries lead a very hard life, and the regular Lead/Acid ones don't last all that long. I pay about $50 for mine at Walmart, and they are as good as any but I don't expect to get more than a couple of seasons out of them. The AGM and Gel batteries, while vastly more expensive not only last longer but actually deliver more too. Any autoparts store will confirm the health of your battery ... or lack thereof.
  18. twigg
    Depends on the geometry and seating position. The Honda VFR800i doesn't look much like a touring machine, but it offers fast traveling and all day comfort.
  19. twigg
    I have one on it's way Who is Jerry? Because I owe Jerry a big Thank You, he has sent me one for the cost of the Shipping. It's even the correct colour!!! Steve
  20. twigg
    Hey, I am having trouble with the fuel gauge. The sender has been replaced. Currently the tank has done 24 miles since full, and the resistance across the sender is 60 Ohms. So all correct there. The wires from the CMU to the sender both have continuity, and, when connected, the hot (Green/White) side is reading just over 5V. Yesterday I removed the CMU and resoldered a few joints, but mainly it looked to be in very good shape. When I got this bike just about every warning light remained on, and we are now down just to the fuel gauge. Could someone check for me what the voltage should be if when the gauge is displaying correctly, because what I am left with appears to be needing a new CMU. If we have any really, really well informed readers, who know which parts of the CMU control the gas gauge, then I could investigate the precise path in the CMU. There is some small, intermittent fault here as I have, on a couple of occasions, seen the gauge work, or at least try to with the gas pump icon out, and one or two bars on the gauge. Thanks.
  21. twigg
    Now you have me confused WHen you sync carbs you generally do it at idle. If you then change those settings at a higher rev range, they will be out of sync at idle .... There aren't TWO settings to do this. Guys .... Some of you are over thinking this. It's simple. Sync the carbs according to the book, Adjust the idle mixture, preferably with an exhaust gas analyser, then sync again. It's not hard. If, and only if you understand fully what you are doing, then by all means sync higher up the rev range! If syncing carbs at idle leads to significantly different gas mileage that syncing at 4000 rpm, then you have a carburation problem to fix
  22. twigg
    You might want to consider the SCMA Four Corners Ride. It's about 8000 miles, you are already at one of the corners, and there is time to sightsee on the way. http://www.usa4corners.org/
  23. twigg
    Loved the description A few things to consider. You have to get the rust out before sealing. Use duct tape for all the holes then chuck a pound or two of old nuts, bolts, ball bearings etc into the tank. Seal it up and shake it till your arms fall off. When you are well rested, shake it some more ... and do this several times. Clean the tank of the junk, and swill out the remaining crap with some kerosene. Once it has dried out you can use a phosphorous based rust cure. Pour it in, seal it up, shake it around then drain and clean again. Then .... You need to check for pinholes. Throw a flashlight in there in a darkened room and you should see any holes. Failing that, seal it up well and use low pressure with the tank submerged and watch for bubbles. THEN you are ready for the sealer. Good luck.
  24. twigg
    I'm in the "fly North ride South" camp. When I was looking for my VR I was tempted to try to find one as far from Tulsa as I could .... Just for the Fly/Ride
  25. twigg
    Motorcycle Superstore for me. I have put Bridgestone Spitfire II on the VR and the Triple ... and been very happy with them. There is a local guy who will change and dynamic balance them for $20. No complaints.
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