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twigg

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Everything posted by twigg

  1. When you have mastered London you are allowed to move on to Paris. Save Milan and Rome for later!!
  2. Many congratulations!!! Texas panhandle nearly killed me ... I hadn't allowed for nearly 4000 feet of elavation, and I almost froze! Get that paperwork in, my certificate arrived in under three weeks.
  3. It's aneat idea but I would be surprised if the sound quality were up to much. It has to play through the magnetic heads and I would think the dynamic range would suffer .... Be good to have a full review.
  4. Quite correct. And if a roundabout doesn't have lights, it's less safe than an intersection that does. Whatever anyone says.
  5. One day, if all goes well and UPS decides to actually, ya know ... deliver parcels, then you might spot mine on the road too! :: sigh ::
  6. Printer ink is one of the biggest rip-offs known to man. A chip reset tool is cheap, and so are generic inks. Refill your own, it's easy.
  7. They are not safer, unless they are controlled by traffic lights. What they are is a very cheap alternative to a proper intersection. In the US they are quite rare, and folk are not used to negotiating them, so I would urge extra care. You may know what you are doing, Gramps, in his Oldsmobile, does not. On the other hand, they are extremely useful for learning how far you can lean your bike, and how to get your knee down. If you want to see something confusing, take a look here: http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.bbc.co.uk/wiltshire/content/images/2007/10/22/msn_magic_roundabout_470x350.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.bbc.co.uk/wiltshire/content/image_galleries/wiltshire_live_search_gallery.shtml%3F15&h=350&w=470&sz=50&tbnid=aFVkufOwv41B0M:&tbnh=96&tbnw=129&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dthe%2Bmagic%2Broundabout%26tbm%3Disch%26tbo%3Du&zoom=1&q=the+magic+roundabout&usg=__hNOE84j81KcY63gRDqrLKYy7dKY=&sa=X&ei=GUbMTY_QN6PY0QHq2tDfBg&ved=0CD8Q9QEwBg
  8. You're probably right about the button. I missed the bit about the front horn still working. My bad.
  9. If the switch is the type that grounds to the frame when you press it, then that would be the first thing to check. A good clean of the contact areas can work wonders.
  10. twigg

    tool

    Well you could, but I would caution that you not combine the C4 with the "large hammer" method.
  11. No. Only ferrous metals are magnetic.
  12. I just did the upgrade this week. Headers off which involves loosening but not removing the radiator. Thermostat housing and drain valve off. That gives room to get at the starter bolts and pull it back to disengage. It's gonna be stuck in there, so lightly drift it back.
  13. We'll call it quits shall we? I'll ignore your ridiculous "threat" remark at a simple admonishment, and assume you are having a bad day.
  14. twigg

    tool

    What we are seeing here is a fine example of how there are a million ways to remove a stuck or damages fastener. All of them work some of the time, none of them work all of the time. Start with the least destructive (Pb Blaster and heat), then gradually work your way right up to Spark Erosion, and hope it comes out before you get there
  15. Don't worry about pics for me .... I'll happily take your word for it. Did you see that I fixed my Fuel Sender issue?
  16. Just a quick question. Aren't two of the brushes grounded to the plate? You could have used the screws holding the brushes to run a ground strap to the cap. Let me know if I am wrong about that.
  17. This is important. It's easy for us to joke about "riding it home", but it's a long way, and you might notwant to do it, especially on an unfamiliar machine. It won't be much cheaper than having it shipped, and it might well actually cost more. There is absolutely no shame in just not wanting to do it
  18. However, I wont banter back and forth and turn this into a pissing match. I've done that before and NOBODY wins. You don't get to say that and just walk away. 400W speakers, and most auto speakers of that caliber are NOT raw drivers. They have crossovers, sometimes built-in, and sometimes not. You are correct about the cheap and nasty stuff fitted to the bikes as original equipment. But that is not what the OP asked about. You are also correct that the 17W amp probably can't damage the speakers he asked about, but no one said it could. What was said was that trying to drive speakers with an under-powered amplifier could damage them. It is highly unlikely that the speakers will be either 2 or 4 Ohm, those are generally reserved for PA speakers and I have never seen them in cars or on bikes. They are likely to be a minimum of 8 Ohm. So yes, I was completely correct. It might be that you were correct too, but you were way too fast to tell me I was wrong. You might want to watch that in future.
  19. I'm about done here, but before I go .... That is what I said! The OP asked about 400W speakers. They are not the basic raw driver units being mentioned elsewhere. They are sophisticated, probably high-end auto speakers being fitted to a 17W per channel amplifier. In order to get much sound out of them the amp would be driven to it's max, and stands a good chance of clipping, which is dangerous for the speakers. The only saving grace in that arrangement is that the bike amp probably can't produce enough power to damage those speakers, neither will they work very well. I was right the first time, and I am still right.
  20. Yeah, in theory that is how it should work. In practise it doesn't ... ask any sound reinforcement engineer. Under powered amps will very easily damage high power handling speakers. This is because they clip, which means that they can't deliver what is being asked, and the voltage spikes. The protection circuits cannot handle the spikes, but they can handle a high powered amplifier trying to over drive them ... They have thermal protection and they shut down. So, odd as it sounds, I was correct. Where there is a massive imbalance, and you are using cheap speakers then yes, they can be blown by too big an amp.
  21. With the free shipping that's a good price for those springs Earl
  22. Okay ... I bit the bullet: First pic is the back of the board showing the pin mountings. They all look just peachy, but the path to ground isn't happening so I guess there is a broken track or poor solder under the connector on the other side. http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i418/twigg2324/1986%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Royale/IMG_0548.jpg Rather than mess around trying to remove the connectors and fix it, I did this: http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i418/twigg2324/1986%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Royale/IMG_0550.jpg And guess what ... My Fuel Gauge now works, as does everything else on that CMU. God my wife married a genius :rotf:
  23. The Junior is on that page ... That will charge too. You are correct about the lunch ... and dinner.
  24. Okay .... Take a look - very bottom left. http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i418/twigg2324/1986%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Royale/IMG_0546.jpg As you can see ... The G/W wire comes from the CMU, passes through the Sender and returns to the CMU via the Black wire. That Black wire is grounded, probably inside the CMU. My gauge doesn't work as it stands, but there is continuity right along the black wire. When I ground that wire it works normally ... so I figure the ground inside the CMU is broken. The harness has no disconnected grounds so it can't be grounded anywhere BUT in the CMU.
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