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twigg

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Everything posted by twigg

  1. twigg
    It's Autozone CST 7513 I told you not to ask me how I know!!! Oh, it's $6
  2. twigg
    Try replacing the radiator cap. If the cap is not holding the correct pressure, the system WILL boil over even if everything else is working perfectly well, and at a lower temperature that what is required to have the fan running. What is happening is that the coolant, as the pressure rises, is forced back past a leaking (internally) cap, and into the coolant reservoir where it normally should not be. This coolant is very hot, and it will cause the expansion chamber coolant to boil .... that sends coolant out of the overflow pipe and onto a hot engine. Lots of steam and a puddle on the ground are the result. Replacing the cap, assuming the head gasket is okay, should be a complete cure. Ask me how I know What is more, it will boil over even with the gauge registering a normal temperature.
  3. twigg
    Just a quick word about this in what is an excesllent post: The butterfly shaft seals are delicate. By now, the originals are over twenty years old, and they have gone from "soft and sealing" to "hard and not at all air-tight". Replcements are easy to come by, and replacing them is very straightforward. mikesxs.com has them for around $5.50 a pair, and motorcyclecarbs.com has them at $5 or $6 each. The mikesxs are the single-lipped which work just fine. The originals are double-lipped and are the $6 each version. There are a few things to note. The butterfly valve screws are brass and "staked". With a good fitting screwdriver and a light touch with a small hammer they come out very easily. They are M4 thread, and Lowes carries replacements. When you reassemble them use BLUE locktite on the threads, and all will be well. These seals are overlooked because Yamaha never offered those parts, they were always part of an expensive carb body sub-assembly. But they should be replaced, and the job is easier to do than it is to describe.
  4. twigg
    I have a 1st Gen. Now I have thoroughly overhauled the cooling system I can't get the temp gauge above about one third into the green. This two up 75mph in 100F ambient. It does rise when stationary, then the fan cuts in and it drops again. So why are folk bypassing, or manually controlling the fan? Am I missing something here?
  5. twigg
    You might want to consider bolstering the area with additional abs rather than using fiberglass etc. Abs can be bought in sheets for next to no money, it will bond with MEK ($10 per quart). The resulting bond will be as strong as the original plastic (but much thicker now), and should add much strength to those areas. You can do this to any weak points on fairing tabs.
  6. twigg
    An explosive decompression would be worse, especially at high speed. Such an occurrence is extremely rare, fortunately. Even a fairly rapid deflation is usually detectable and controllable, as you found out today. Most punctures deflate the tire slowly, and the handling goes bad long before it gets dangerous. When it happens on the rear, like today, the fishtailing can cause a loss of control and the bike will normally go down on it's side. This can be bad but it's not as bad as the front blowing out. At high speed that can cause complete loss of control in an instant, and no real knowing what will happen, but a highside isn't out of the question. As I said, it's a very rare happening. ps .... No, in thirty five years of motorcycling I have never had to experience a front tire blowout .... I have had punctures.
  7. twigg
    I was watching that one. No plans to buy, so congrats
  8. twigg
    Try RAM mounts. If they don't have a specific mount for your phone, they have a universal finger mount that is very secure. I use one. I use RAM cupholders too. If you plan to use Google Nav then there are a few things to remember. It cannot plan multi-stop routes. It's very good, but it's point to point. If you input a route in an area with data connection, then it will prefetch all the mapping you need for the route. If you leave the route by much, and don't have a data signal, then it cannot get the new maps it needs. The maps are not stored on the phone. There are other mapping apps for Android that store maps on the phone, but they are not free. I find the best combination is to use my Garmin for the basic route, and the phone to find things along the way.
  9. twigg
    Hey guys, I broke my headlight while I was fitting new driving lamps and an HID unit. Does anyone have a spare headlight for a 1986 Venture Royale? Thanks
  10. twigg
    You will not get a straight answer to a question like this. Folk are too wrapped up in personal taste, national pride, a bunch of other things so, FWIW: All full dress tourers are top heavy. If the equipment doesn't get them, the wind on the fairing can In the US, the Gold Wing, well the modern ones, are the Gold Standard, in Europe they can't sell them because BMW rules that class, and has since the sixties. So figure it out ..... In the USA the BMWs find most favour with the guys who rack up prodigious mileages, and there has to be a reason for that. The Yamaha FJR1300 is pretty popular too. Some ride Wings but for most they are not the first choice. The seating position on the BMW is alien to folk coming from a cruiser market, and a second home for those from the sports/tourer background. BMW have prodigious reliability with the exception of a few known faults on some models. They all command a price premium, part of which is due to the scarcity of good second hand examples. BMW Gold Wing Yamaha They are all good machines but buying a bike is a personal decision. Only you can decide which features matter. The only thing that has been mentioned that doesn't matter a damn is speed. Any and all these choices can cruise all day at speeds so illegal you would be hauled off to jail.
  11. twigg
    lol ... Insight At temperatures above about 97F, you need to keep OUT of the wind. The article mentioned above shows very clearly how heat exhaustion and dehydration can happen really fast if you let the wind heat your body. Even at lower temps the "breeze" is misleading. It feels "cooling" when actually it is simply "drying". In those conditions, a full windproof riding suit is better by far. You can also tip water down the front and that will help carry the heat away.
  12. twigg
    Sirius is where I got mine. Very happy with them. I also got float bowl gaskets and a couple of air shut-off valves too.
  13. twigg
    Be a good idea to wait for details before instantly blaming the government. The local authorities in Sturgis have been welcoming to bikers for years, I'd wait to see the reasons before letting my bias show like that in public.
  14. twigg
    Thanks Gary.
  15. twigg
    Yeah .... I can find out in loads of places, I was wondering if a 1st Gen had made the trip recently. Thanks
  16. twigg
    Yeah, sorry, that was meant to be one way.
  17. twigg
    Hi, Has anyone taken a 1st Gen VR up the Dalton Highway in the last couple of years or so? Mine is itching to do it, thinking of next summer. It would be about a 4900 mile round trip.
  18. twigg

    Speaker

    twigg replied to Bubber's topic in Watering Hole

    We still talking about the boombox?
  19. twigg
    That's a little tricky. The manufacturer tunes the carburation to the exhaust they fit. You generally only get "louder" by freeing up the gas flow through the exhaust. The baffles, which reduce noise, also provide the back pressure that the engine needs for full and efficient combustion. The popping and back-firing that many HDs suffer from when straight through pipes are fitted is part of this. What is happening, especially on the over run, is that unburned fuel is getting through to the exhaust headers, and burning there. There are some tings you can do about this, but not many. Advancing the timing will help, but many bikes have computer controlled timing so advancing it requires a new ignition map. So ... it is likely that some of our users have changed the exhausts and got away without re-jetting, because a minor change doesn't always require it. But they have all compromised the combustion to one extent or another which may, or may not be a big deal. At the very least, you will use SOME more gas. If the change isn't too radical then maybe not much more. There is also a chance that the bike will run leaner than it should. That will offset the extra gas used, but can lead to pre-ignition or the engine running hotter. Suck it and see.
  20. twigg
    Despite my dislike of this kind of discussion here ...... Thank you for this. Thank you for your Service ... and Welcome Home
  21. twigg
    All that being said, it's pretty easy to check that the size of the main jet is correct. Just do a "throttle roll-off test". Mark the throttle at WOT, 7/8 open and 3/4 open. Get the engine good and hot then find yourself a nice open piece of highway. Run the test in 4th gear. Running it in top gear will have you doing some very illegal speeds. Accelerate the bike until it is pulling well. Crack open the throttle to about 7/8 open. That gets the motor running on the main jet. When the revs are climbing high, and the bike pulling strongly, snap the throttle back to 3/4 open. When you do that, the bike should simply pull less and begin to slow, or accelerate less hard, but do it smoothly. If it "surges" a touch, before settling, the Main Jet is too small. If it "stumbles" then settles then the Main is too big. If everything is smooth then the jet is correct, or close enough. This happens because snapping shut the throttle shuts the air down faster than the gas. If it was running a bit lean (jet too small), then it will briefly richen and you get the surge. If it was running rich (jet too big), it will over richen and stumble. If it does neither, then it's pretty close. A dyno session will be quicker, more accurate, but cost quite a bit.
  22. twigg
    That's a bunch of questions with no easy answers. Bluetooth compatibility is a major headache because there are several different protocols. You have to make sure that both the GPS and the intercom support the same protocol ... and that should be in the spec of each. Streets and Trips ... as far as I know can output to the .gpx format. Check that because most LD Riders plan with Mapsource and Street and Trips, and both can be loaded into Garmin units. Probably others too, but I don't know. S&T should recognise the Garmin, but if it doesn't I think the Microsoft routs, certainly the waypoints can be saved to a file and imported via Mapsource. S&T is way prettier than Mapsource, but MS is pretty accurate because it should be using the actual maps that are loaded into the Garmin.
  23. twigg
    Is it worth saving $30 compared with the risk of being wrong about being able to clean them?
  24. twigg
    lol ... get out your crayons and color me skeptical. To start with .... that diagram of the "new" spark is nonsense. The spark will jump the smallest gap, not go around a corner. I would think that there are more improvements to gas mileage that could be made in other ways. Cutting down the screen springs to mind. You can improve spark performance by "indexing" the plugs. Beyond that I would be very suspicious of ideas like this. Spend the time riding.
  25. twigg
    The butterfly shaft seals are easily replaceable. Single-lipped seals are available for $5.50 a pair from MikesXS.com, and double lipped from motorcyclecarbs.com at $6 each.
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