twigg
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Everything posted by twigg
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leveling system and battery symbol on monitor
twigg replied to desertlvr's topic in General Tech Talk
There is another cheap fix for the leveling system. Remove it. Fit Progressive Springs on the front fork, and have the rear shock rebuilt with a Progressive Spring ..... Or go the whole hog and replace the shock. You will never have to play with the CLASS again. You have four levels of pre-load available on the rear. Two up and luggage I find position 3 works great with 43lbs (medium) of air pressure. But my rear shock is old, and it's done 56000 miles so I am betting that I would be unlikely to need the help from the compressor if I fixed the shock ... and I still have position 4 ... Must try that. OTOH, fixing the CLASS is pretty easy if it's just soldering ..... -
I just traded my Garmin 1490T for a Garmin 765T. Seems like the 765 will do just about everything the Zumo does. Price was $128 from Amazon. I know it's not waterproof, but baggies are.
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Yours had two wheels? You were spoiled!! :rotf:
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So I re-read that and it sounds a bit harsher than I intended Here is the thing .... The newest of the 1st Gen VRs is 1993. In common with all older vehicles, they require maintaining, and they often require that you "undo" years of neglect (ask me how I know). If you are up for that, then you will be rewarded with a very fine motorcycle, but it's not for everyone. Plenty of folk here go to a Dealer and slap down a wad of cash, or sign a loan agreement. That is a perfectly valid option. You will still have issues though, ask the 2nd Gen owners. From your post it does sound like you might not have the mechanical background that would help you understand the needs of the older bikes, and allow you to assess the risks. So go buy a new one .... they are just as much fun
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Batteries with the port for the sensor are available in Walmart for less than $50. Tires from Motorcycle Superstore for around $150 a set ... They are a common size, both of them. Solder joints losing their grip are neither difficult to fix, nor do they cause any safety issues. They are on circuit boards that have been on a motorcycle for 25 years, what do you expect? The faults these bikes have are small in number, and generally minor in nature. Even the 2nd gear issue is easily fixed. A few early frames cracked, those can be avoided. This Forum is full of very good advice by experts who willingly give of their time and knowledge with routine maintenance and repairs to older machinery. Whether you buy or not is a matter for you entirely, but you really don't get to type such mis-information and have it go completely unchallenged. Properly maintained and cared for, these bikes are as capable now as they were when new and if you can show me any machine that is 99.999% reliable, then please do, and I'll buy it. Just sayin' peace.
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I think it's about the amount of Moly in the grease compared to the Honda version. I'm fairly confident the stuff you bought will be just fine. Check after a couple of thousand miles to see whether or not the splines or joints are still well coated.
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leveling system and battery symbol on monitor
twigg replied to desertlvr's topic in General Tech Talk
A 1k resistor to ground will turn out the light on the panel. The E4 code is usually telling you that some of the solder joints on the circuit board have failed. It's an easy repair if you are confident with a 15W soldering iron. If not, any local electronics tech should be able to do it in a few minutes if the thing is apart. The job mainly comprises of briefly touching the iron to any joints that look suspect. Most will re-flow the solder and few if any should need more. Others may have experienced it slightly differently. -
Where are they?
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Manuals can be downloaded from here for subscribers. They also appear on eBay from time to time. I just bought the Yamaha Factory Workshop Manual fro $10, in excellent condition. I have seen them sell for up to $140. You have to be patient.
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Butterfly Shaft Seals
twigg replied to twigg's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Quick update. Thanks again Carl ..... Shaft Seals are on their way together with the plastic shims. When I rebuilt the carbs I replaced those seals with the single-lipped versions available from MikesXS. It seems from a test with carb cleaner that seven of them are working just fine, and the eighth one is leaking. I get a rapid "surge" in revs when that seal is sprayed. The airbox boot above it is tight, so I guess it's the seal. It is quite possible that I damaged the seal when I assembled it, I'll check when I get them apart. Bad seals happen too. Oh well .... I am replacing all eight with OEM seals. That wasn't cheap but it should be a complete cure. Then I can re-sync and re-set the idle mixture ..... and then the motor should drop to idle at traffic lights, sparing the cooling system of the overwork it doesn't much like. Here's hoping! -
Sounds like "all's well that ends well". Well done!
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What he did was paste the "embed" code into a post. I do that all the time in another place, but different software handles it differently .... Yours converts the URL, which does make it very easy
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Welcome to the Forum. The Search function works really well and this topic has been discussed a gagillion times. Quick answer .... The 20W/50 will be just fine in the UK. Do not use Castrol GTX or any other "car" oils. Use either a motorcycle specc'd oil or a diesel motor oil. Some like Synthetic and mostly it won't hurt a bit providing it has no friction modifiers, so get one specc'd for wet clutches. Really .... search, it's all here.
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A clean break in ABS is most easily repaired with Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK). It is the solvent for ABS and works fast and effectively. MEK is stocked by Homedepot at about $10 per quart .... It's there with the paint thinners.
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Failed, apparently. Not sure the Board allows embedded video
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The flashing red light shows that a sensor is showing an error. Could be as simple as a blown bulb or the sidestand down, or low gas. The psi is normal. The system only works with the key is the first ACC position, then you get other readings and the buttons work. The idle speed sounds minor. It's idling and that's a great start. The carbs are easy to work on, all parts are available. The diaphragms might need replacing they can be had for $70 plus shipping, for a set of 4 The valve cover gaskets can be upgraded for about $20 each, do it when you check the valve clearances ... easy. Bunch of tyres available. I use Bridgestone Spitfire IIs, about $150 a set. Shift lever can be adjusted. You need to worry much more about the plastic than you do about the mechanicals. If the plastic is good, and all the major systems are working, and if the price is right .... You will end up with a very fine bike. ps .... If the bike has any significant extras then you will be very happy. For example ... a driver backrest can be $150 plus ... Driver floorboards can run $400 for "like new", various chrome racks and rear light bars are high dollar as is a towbar. If the bike has any of these you will be in good shape. pps .... This motorcycle is 27 years old. It will need work and it will require regular attention. If you don't want to do that then walk away and buy something new. If you want to ride, not tinker, then get yerself down to the dealers and buy something with a warranty. Not everyone wants to work on their bikes, and it's not fun if you don't want to do it.
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My 87'VR was Rear ended At WalMart...Of All Places!
twigg replied to skydoc_17's topic in Watering Hole
Every time something like this happens, I find myself simply thankful that it's only a bike that needs repairs. Good luck with that, Earl, you'll have it better than new -
And the spacer is just a piece of white plastic pipe usually .... If the spring kit doesn't include any, Lowes and Homedepot has plenty
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Butterfly Shaft Seals
twigg replied to twigg's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Thanks Carl, I'll get on to that now. -
Sounds like a reasonable guy who knows his limits ..... He may yet make it
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CLASS is a bit of a gimmick. It works but there are better solutions. Progressive springs in the front forks with about one inch of pre-load, and a rear shock rebuild with a Progressive spring, or go the whole hog and replace the mono-shock. You shouldn't really need the CLASS after that. What I have noticed is that with the bike loaded and my 150lb wife on the back, 43lbs of air, which is the medium setting, is about perfect .... nothing in the front. My set up is Progressives in the front which are in spec, and the original, and probably a bit tired shock on the back. I set it on #3. I'm guessing that a new shock would let me forget about the air.
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Well the guy has a 1000 mile ride to face. He will be well acquainted with it by then, if he gets it there.
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Not much you can do. You can impress on this guy that he needs to consider other options, including shipping. $500 is way cheaper than hospital bills, or killing someone. If he insists then you could consider him dangerous to the public, and call the cops. It sounds ungrateful, but it would be responsible.
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Does anyone know a reliable supplier for Butterfly Shaft Seals for Mikuni BDS34 Carbs? MikesXS.com has the single-lipped version and I guess they might work, motorcyclecarbs.com has both the single and double-lipped at a fairly high price. The problem is that motorcyclecarbs.com is offline at the moment and, in any event, they do ship very slowly and are not highly recommended. Surely someone else in this vast country stocks them? Thanks for your help.
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Dust Seals - Double Holy Heck
twigg replied to thirdbike's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
My parts cross reference is saying that dust seal fits all VRs to 1989, then the V-Max from 90 on. I don't know what part# fits the '90 to '93 VR