Jump to content

twigg

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    1,423

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by twigg

  1. twigg
    The operative word is "should". I agree, they should. Mine didn't. The fork stanchions came out of the sliders without moving the seals at all. They were in there tight. Without a seal puller I needed to find another way. When they did come out, the new ones were a simple sliding fit. So far, 5000 miles and no leaks
  2. twigg
    The ground wire mod on the starter is a complete fix for this problem. Upgrading the cables helps too. The other way to fix it is to fit a later V-Max or 2nd Gen starter. They are expensive.
  3. twigg
    I found it. The copper gasket on the front pipe I replaced is not positioned far enough back to fully cover the expansion slots in the collector stub. I'll loosen it and push it farther back this weekend.
  4. twigg
    Getting those seals out can be ... er ... challenging. A chisel will make you swear for years to come I found that there is a simple method that does no damage and seems to work. Take the longest, widest flat-blade screwdriver you have. Jam the blade under the metal rim of the seal and lay the shaft across the fork tube. With your hand .... not a hammer .... simply hit the handle down sharply. Those seals just pop right our and the seal seating area is protected from the screwdriver tip by the seal itself. Alternatively ... buy a set of seal pullers and do it properly.
  5. twigg
    Good secondhand rotors will be perfectly fine if they are not worn thin and do not have deep scoring. Minor surface marks are acceptable. Expect to pay up to $50 per rotor for good ones. The pads are equally important and rarely cheap, so choose carefully. There are many brake upgrades that will all help. You can de-link the Front/Rear system ... Swap out the rubber lines for braided steel and even change the calipers for those from a 98-04 Yamaha R1 ... that will give you a wider choice of pads too. The standard brakes work ... They stop the bike. But they are marginal and improvements here are worth vastly more than any number of shiny bits. You will probably only ever need one decent set of rotors, and it might be worth shelling out the new ones, and yes, the makers are very proud of them!!
  6. twigg
    You pretty much just described Plastex. Nail varnish remover and a 4" black drain fitting is rather cheaper MEK is a better solvent and you can take a mould from an existing tab to make new ones.
  7. twigg
    My apologies, Condor. I need to read more carefully. I am so used to seeing folk use simple fiberglass repair kits, and mess up a perfectly good part that I tend to just "react" to the sight of the word. Yes, with the correct solvent glassfiber would work. Personally ... the case is ABS and I'd strengthen it with ABS which is very cheap and easy to get. But what Condor said would work too.
  8. twigg
    Oh yeah ... That's the other place. I knew there was somewhere else
  9. twigg
    It's not easy to tell ... I just went and looked. It seems like the flange that bolts to the cylinder head is welded to the pipes, but higher up than the break. That break, btw, goes all the way round, it is broken off. At the collector end the two are held together with a single spot weld. I do know that replacing the pipe has transform the way the bike runs, and hopefully it will have done something for the gas mileage too. We will see when I get the chance to rum 100 miles on it. There is still a very minor "puffing" from somewhere around the collector. I can hear it but it may be normal or just a gasket or joint that is not 100% sealed. Either way it is minor and won't affect the running nearly as much as the damage right by the exhaust valve, if at all.
  10. twigg
    He assembles the fork tube seal onto the fork upper leg before inserting the upper leg back into the slider. Then he uses the plastic pipe to drive the seal home into the lower leg. The pipe is long enough to go completely over the upper stanchion. the outer edge is chamfered because the stock pipe is very slightly wider than the seal. or something like that. You can drive the seals in before replacing the upper leg, but the seal lips are delicate and it is better not to try it that way.
  11. twigg
    What about the waterpump seal? If you worked carefully, and after spending all that $$$ who wouldn't? then the top end could well be just fine. It doesn't take much water to make that mayo mess. Off hand I can't think of anywhere else that the water and oil can mix.
  12. twigg
    A short test-ride later. Who stole my bike and gave me this new one??? The difference is remarkable. Gone is the noise and the lumpy low-speed running. No hanging high-idle ... feels like a different bike.
  13. twigg
    lol .... threads about "Dynabeads" or "Which Engine Oil is Best?" rarely turn out funny ... either here or elsewhere.
  14. twigg
    Most of what Condor said! The correct solvent for ABS plastic is Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK). It is sold by Lowes for $10 per quart .... probably enough to repair 1000 fairings The Needle dropper bottle is a great applicator. Hold the crack closed and simply run a line of the solvent along the crack from the inside. It will correctly fuse the two halves and be a complete repair. However ... They all crack there because it is a stress point so it needs reinforcing. What it doesn't need is fiberglass. Fiberglass is not permanent because it doesn't stick correctly and will fail in time. To reinforce the corner cut the right sized piece from a sheet of 2mm ABS (this is cheap, any plastic supplier will sell you an 8x4 sheet, or off-cuts. Warm the plastic and press it into the corner to mould it. Cover one side with MEK and press and hold it into place. It is now part of the case, fixed and will never come off. You can use this method to make new tabs, reinforce old ones, strengthen the inside corners of the front fairing .... You get the drift. Or .... spend an absolute fortune on Plastex, which will work but is actually the same materials described here. Hope this helps.
  15. twigg
    Thanks Did you order the new version units? I'll get you a $50 deposit hopefully this weekend. Ebay is full of MAP Sensors, but if you do end up with a spare I'll take a new one.
  16. twigg
    Most common causes of mixed oil and coolant: Head gasket failure - Do a leakdown or compression test. Leakdown is better because it might only become apparent on a compression test with the engine hot, and you don't want to run it. Waterpump Shaft Seal - Self explanatory really ... The waterpump has a shaft, with a seal, and they can fail. Cylinder Head "Joints" - There are two plastic "joints" between cylinders on each head. Each of them has three o-rings and they have likely been undisturbed since new. Fixing this costs about $60. The joints are available, as are the o-rings but the joints will not come out without destroying them, they are too fragile. Getting them out is not fun but doable with the engine in the frame. They are the obvious places to start looking.
  17. twigg
    Gary I am probably going to miss this Group Buy. I will have the money, but not in time so I was wondering ... If I have to source the unit directly from Igniteck, are you able to supply the rest of the kit? I know this wouldn't be the cheapest way to do it, but I want the unit before Rally season starts and I can't think of another way. Steve
  18. twigg
    Posting this simply as a problem solved. Others will have this issue and hopefully they will find this thread in a search, and it might help. 1st Gen VRs sometimes suffer from exhaust rattles. The noise is internal and frequently caused by a deteriorating baffle in the collector. Ever since I have had this bike it has suffered from a rattle which isn't evident in a cold engine, but soon makes its presence felt as the bike warms up. At best it is annoying, but now it is fixed. Sometime ago I had the exhaust off to have the collector repaired. It needed new stubs making and welding on and this was done. At the same time I cut open the collector to fix the baffle. To my surprise it was undamaged, so the hole was simply closed up again. More recently I have had an issue with cylinder #2 firing when it wanted to. This too is fixed. New Plugs, Wires and Caps took care of it. I still had the noise and something else unusual. The front downpipe on the right was heating up much faster than the one on the left (#2). That wasn't right. Cylinder #2 was firing correctly so it had to be another issue. Then I realised that those downpipes are "double-walled". What if there was a break internally. Here is what I found: http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i418/twigg2324/1986%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Royale/DSCN0277.jpg And another view of same: http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i418/twigg2324/1986%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Royale/DSCN0279.jpg Note the break that extends almost the whole way around the internal pipe. Newish downpipe from eBay demonstrated two differences .... Firstly, it had no break, so a good sign Also, the new pipe had a thin but unbroken layer of carbon completely coating the inside. This is normal. As you can see from the pictures the carbon layer is broken, and feathers towards the crack. There was some serious upset in the gas-flow in this pipe, and could be the equivalent of an exhaust hole causing lean condition and an idle that could be reluctant to fall to normal when the motor was very hot. So ... All bolted up, engine running quietly and smoothly, and no rattles. Hope this helps.
  19. twigg
    Whatever way you choose to do it, there is one absolute rule, which I am sure you already have in mind. When your generator is running you MUST be disconnected from the external supply. Just think of the power line workers They will thank you for not sending 125V down the lines they are working on.
  20. twigg
    I'd vote for supporting Earl ... If you really need cheap there are some on eBay right now for $65 plus shipping.
  21. twigg
    It could be, but there are so many variables. I remember reading a report from years ago that related to cars. It suggested that at 50mph, then 50% of the gas being burned was simply overcoming wind resistance. The faster you go, the worse this becomes. Not only do you burn more gas pushing the weight down the road, but the wind resistance increases exponentially. Hence the very poor gas mileage for those regularly riding in excess of 80mph. But .... You can't really compare figures unless you can repeat the conditions exactly, and you can compensate some for the extra frontal area. And, in the end, gas is one of the smaller costs involved in running the bike so you also have to put it in perspective. For example ... If you normally get 40mpg average, then a 10% reduction at $3 per gallon would only cost $8 per 1000 miles. That is what the comfort would be costing you just sayin'
  22. twigg
    That color is perfectly consistent with oil that has been changed then run a while. Oil that is black, and sparse in quantity or has silvery streaks, or metal lumps .... That is what you need to worry about
  23. twigg
    Never tried that but that company has some wonderful rear view mirrors that I can't afford
  24. twigg
    Almost by definition, increasing the frontal area of a vehicle will mean more power is needed to push more air out of the way. Even anecdotally it's not likely to be much though. The real question is whether or not the few extra cents per mile (if that) is worth it to you for the additional protection of the larger screen? You can compensate by slowing down a bit.
  25. twigg
    My Dad gave me some great advice for City driving, when I was learning" "Point the front where you want it to go, and let the arse take care of itself". So far that has worked well in London, Paris, Rome, Milan even Dallas and, worst of all, Tulsa. Dunno if it would work in Chicago, but I can't think why not
×
×
  • Create New...