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twigg

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Everything posted by twigg

  1. It varies ... K&N filters flow more air than most stock set-ups, and on some bikes require re-jetting. On my XS750 that merely amounted to raising the needles half a notch to give a touch more gas in the mid-range ... that is where the fuel consumption can go up. You trade a few more hp for a little more gas. As I understand it, K&N on the 1st Gens does not need any carb alterations, so the effect on consumption should be close to zero.
  2. Yeah ... I think the Autocom will give you intercom I could also wire the CB into it, but I don't use CB anyway and If I were wanting CB I'd probably look here: http://www.jmcorp.com/ None of these solutions is cheap ... I offer them only as alternatives. It remains quite possible that the on-bike equipment cam be made to work, and work okay.
  3. Probably just practise. First time I took the carbs off the VR, it took forever. I can probably get them off in about 15 minutes now, going carefully.
  4. All gas engines need the same ... They need fuel, compression and a good spark at the correct time. If they have all those then they will fire. It's not like they have a choice. You say the plug is wet, so that suggests that gas is getting in there. Even if it were only firing some of the time, the pipe would heat up, and with gas in the cylinder, some of it should burn. If the timing were off by that much, none of the cylinders would fire. So it points to spark as the first thing to check. The best way is to use one of the in-line spark testers to measure the largest gap the spark will cross (6mm is the minimum for most bikes). You can also use a timing light to see if there is any spark at all. If there is no spark, then work backwards. Start with the plug cap (you have a new plug) and check it for the correct resistance. If the cap has gone bad then there is your problem. Move on to the spark plug wire next. Cut 1/4 inch off each end, check that the resistance is very low (like none if the wires are copper) and refit. That may solve the problem. Next check the primary and secondary resistances of the coil. The numbers are in the book and if you don't have the book you can easily compare the numbers you get from a coil that is known to be working. They should be the same. This is a good basic test of a coil, but not infallible. They can measure right and still not work (that happened on my wife's car). From the other end .... The pick-up coils ... Can't tell you about the '99, I don't know how many it has. But if it is one or two, then they are okay if three cylinders are firing. Next up ... all the connectors. Remove, clean, replace. Finally ... swap two of the coils around. If the coil is the problem then the issue will move to the other cylinder. If all that fails, and you did it correctly, begin to suspect the Ignition box.
  5. This unit is not designed to be any kind of competitor to Spot. To start with, it needs a data signal to work, which rules out calling for help in the very places you may need help the most. Spot is a satellite tracking device which pretty much will work everywhere. It costs $100 for the basic service, and another $50 for the tracking feature which gives 10 minute position updates. I think it is a bit expensive, but it is required now in many LD Rallies, and it is required by Mrs Twigg in all of them Other than the tacking you can send out a simple "Okay" message, or call nominated contacts for help. You can also summon emergency assistance via an "SOS". The next available competitor is a system by Delorme, that costs at least twice as much.
  6. See ... In this world there are no new ideas, only good ones
  7. And when it gets hot, which it will when you brake, the water turns to steam ... and steam is highly compressible. Flush it all out with clean fluid and check the insides of the master cylinders for rust.
  8. Note to self: I.Can.Not.Spend.Any.More.Money.Today
  9. twigg

    92 versus 89

    Yeah ... But it would sit there much faster :rotf:
  10. There is also this as another alternative: http://www.jensenheavyduty.com/jensen-heavy-duty-mini-waterproof-am-fm-wb-radio.html
  11. One thing at a time But this might give you the general idea: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/PLMRCB1-Black-Water-Resistant-Shield/dp/B000MCLVZO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1329448051&sr=8-2]Amazon.com: PYLE PLMRCB1 Black Water Resistant Radio Shield: Car Electronics@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31LwqOcs-WL.@@AMEPARAM@@31LwqOcs-WL[/ame]
  12. You can use handlebar straps, but with most configurations that will have the straps catching the fairing (ask me how I know!) There should never be any slack .... Use ratchet straps and tighten them enough to compress the suspension about halfway through its travel. This is always a stressful job until you have done it once and found that the bike hasn't moved in 500 miles ... Then you relax the next time
  13. You can afford it Mike .... You just got a wedge from me :rotf:
  14. You could have them measure the clearances and report the numbers. Then you can decide if they need doing now. Shouldn't take them hardly any time to get the numbers if the covers are off.
  15. twigg

    92 versus 89

    This seems to be correct. Part number is the same for 84 to 89. and the same for 90-93
  16. At the front tie it down round the lower triple tree Anywhere across the rear subframe at the back, just don't have the straps on any plastic. On my trailer I also add a strap tying the front wheel to the front of the trailer. The bike should be upright, both stands stowed. I found it easier to use separate straps on each side, so, four in all plus the front wheel. It didn't move an inch.
  17. twigg

    92 versus 89

    Heh ... two responses, two different answers. I thought the TCI didn't change until '93 .... In any event, you could simply swap all the parts and convert yours to the later spec.
  18. twigg

    92 versus 89

    As far as I understand, pretty much everything is the same. Even the TCI didn't change until '93. Others will doubtless know of any "detail" changes.
  19. That is actually quite easy. Once the spare plastic is cut away from under the panels, an ABS sheet can be fastened to the top, completely covering the rectangular hole left. That is plenty big enough to take a standard DIN mount for a car stereo and the whole lot can be installed under a marine weatherproof cover.
  20. That's a good idea but a bit tricky because everyone has different needs and wants. Currently I have a high end Autocom fed by a Sirius Radio, Garmin GPS and my phone. The Autocom is in the trunk with the phone, and the Sirius Radio and GPS x 2 are up front. I am toying with adding a FM Media Player where the old system lived. That would also feed the Autocom and the speakers.
  21. Tires: I use Bridgestone Spitfire IIs ... they are fine Carb kits from ebay and some parts from Sirius Diaphragms from Sirius ... They only need to be changed if they are hard, or have holes. Don't forget the Air Cut-Off Valves ($17 Sirius) States Visited Maps: http://epgsoft.com/VisitedStatesMap/ Sirius: http://www.siriusconinc.com/
  22. Getting a headset is pretty easy, if not all that cheap Here is something to think about: The electronics on that bike are 26 years old. As a group we are already experiencing significant problems with all the electronics on these bikes .... The TCI, the CMU, the CLASS system and Cruise controls. Keeping them going is possible, but they are still 26 years old The Audio equipment, when it works, seems to be useable, but modern stuff is much better and more reliable. It's not that hard to simply replace the old stuff with new and the cost can be reasonable. What is difficult and expensive is getting things like your cellphone and mp3 player to work well with the original equipment. There is a powerful argument to be made for removing the old stuff and upgrading to new. It's also possible that what you have will fit your need, and will work for years to come, I just wanted to pose the option.
  23. PM sent.
  24. You knew there was a site for them? http://www.baxterboo.com/search.cfm/doggles-goggles?gclid=CJ6xh7rToa4CFQ5ahwodFTNhSA
  25. That does look remarkably like the ones I need. All I do know is that the ones for the earlier bikes ar different in some way, but they look very good. Are they yours? and for sale? That would make me happy
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