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twigg

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Everything posted by twigg

  1. twigg
    'k I'll quit trying to be helpful. There are a few things I need to quit doing ... I'll add this to the list. "Thanks Steve. Yeah, what you said works but there is another way .... " See how that works?
  2. twigg
    If you host them elsewhere you are not restricted by size. Neither do you have to re-size your pictures yourself. The software re-sizes the picture to fit the Forum. but there is a clickable bar that takes you to the original and that is limited only by the hosting service. It's better for showing detail AND it is the only way to add pictures to the text.
  3. twigg
    Load the pics onto a hosting service like photobucket. Copy the http link to the pic. Hit the "insert image" box in the above fields and paste in the link.
  4. twigg
    Did it smell of fries?
  5. twigg
    The inside of a tyre is rarely dry. Moisture is pumped in everytime you add air ... It will be worse in some locations than in others.
  6. twigg
    You don't need to spend that kind of money to de-link brakes. If you want a bolt-on solution then maybe, and if you are going "big project" route then I would suggest that you buy Skydoc_17's full conversion kit for about $500, which is still less than you just paid Yamaha. With that kit you will get everything you need to upgrade the calipers to Yamaha R1, Steel lines and the bits needed for the rear master cylinder. If you simply want to upgrade the lines and de-link .... There is an ebay seller that will make up the three lines you need for about $60 plus shipping ... He also has all the banjos and washers, etc. You will need a blanking plug for the rear master cylinder, and Skydoc_17 will sell you one for a modest cost. All in all, about $100 would cover it.
  7. twigg
    Yes, I can easily believe that a trained Yamaha mechanic might not know how to bleed the brakes correctly. Actually, I think you were lucky to find a Dealer that would work on it at all Many won't touch a bike that is over ten years old. While it is always nice to keep bikes original, I personally think that the brakes were marginal on these bikes, even when they were new, and there are some easy and very useful upgrades you can perform, if you are minded to. As for "spongy". They shouldn't be. It's kinda hard to describe the exact feeling, because rubber pipes flex, and there will always be some give in the lever. However, it should squeeze back part way then stop. With braided steel lines the "stop" will be much more positive than with original lines. It should still feel firm. Also. if new pads have been fitted it will take a while for full braking to be achieved. The biggest problem for me is that you need to use your foot on these bikes more than I like. It's less precise, with much less feel, and I will be de-linking my brakes pretty soon. With bleeding ... often it is straightforward, sometimes not. Sometimes you have to bleed them, leave them a while, then do it again. A third time can even squeeze out yet more air and if you feel confident then you are probably better doing it yourself. Speedbleeders are a good investment. As for taking the bike across country ... A well maintained Venture is more than capable of hauling itself from coast to coast ... All machines can break down but there is no real reason why yours should if it has been looked after.
  8. twigg
    heh ... "it's" and "its" is the other one
  9. twigg
    We are talking about the Diesel Shell Rotella? Right? That's the one I meant (confusion is easy around here). I generally aim for 4000 miles, and it comes out in decent shape. It's cheap so I don't mind. 4000 seems to fit my riding, although one batch will go 5000 miles this summer, maybe 5500. I rarely need to add more than a few ounces between changes so all seems okay there.
  10. twigg
    Okay Gary. point taken. So, all controversy aside ... What are the advantages?
  11. twigg
    I use it, when I can get it. Someone from Shell Rotella was asked why that oil wasn't designated for motorcycles, and the reply was that they hadn't had it tested. Methinks the fact that they also sell a motorcycle oil at three times the price may have something to do with it
  12. twigg
    "It is better to be thought ignorant, than to open one's keyboard, and prove it". I think that was Confucius, or maybe Will Rogers.
  13. twigg
    It's been one of those days
  14. twigg
    If I were of the persuasion that Dyna Beads worked, I would simply want to know what is the benefit? I mean .... Compared to the traditional method, that has worked for a long time now, they do seem to be expensive, and come with certain issues .... clumping, getting stuck in an air valve, needing to be replaced at a tyre change, to name four. So what are the advantages? By the way .... Don't want to make a meal of Gary hogging the spotlight but the one thing that probably isn't a concern is them pooling at the bottom when stopped. Out of balance conditions don't usually manifest until the wheel is rotating quite fast, and they should all be in their appointed position before then. Oh, and I am all for finding cheaper solutions, so good thread!
  15. twigg
    You raise very good points Vincent. It is very easy, in a discussion about riding techniques and cornering, to come away with the impression that the bulk of riders are riding flat out everywhere. It's probably the nature of the discussion. However, it is also far from the truth. The OP asked about safe cornering, and was advised to book on a course. Those courses can, and do help you go faster around corners, but that is not the aim. The aim is to help you go more safely through corners. Despite the language being "race lingo" oriented, that's not the reality. It really is all about understanding how a motorcycle behaves, and what the hazards are that you will face. You may choose to use those new found skills to ride faster ... some do ... but most generally don't, well not by much. What they do get is the knowledge needed to simply be a safer driver. The OP expressed a lack of confidence. That might not be fixed, but training and practise, and a clear understanding of hazards, and how to avoid them has got to help
  16. twigg
    This, according to the research, would probably work okay. Diesel Oil, on the same basis, is a better solution as it is not degrading the same way, and you can stick to regular service intervals Oh, and it's still only about $12 per gallon.
  17. twigg
    That sidecar better have a Koran AND a Bible in it, oh, and Obama and Santorum riding pillion,or you are in real trouble
  18. twigg
    If you ride a 2nd Gen, it won't matter. You will be behind the 1st Gens, and your mishaps will be your own! :rotf:
  19. twigg
    Let me clarify something here. The comment was mine. It was quoted out of context, and in my world being "ignorant" simply indicates a lack of knowledge. It was not, is not intended as a pejorative description of anyone. I am very pleased that Rick understood both the disclaimer that it meant him, AND the smiley face that accompanied it. That thread is a good one. It is three pages of people discussing one of the most contentious subjects on this Forum, and doing so intelligently and informatively. I am sorry Black Owl chose to misunderstand me, but I do feel that a simple PM would have sufficed. I would have had the opportunity to re-visit the comment, and edit appropriately. If a Moderator wishes to make the point about civil discourse, I would support that, but to do so by singling out an innocent remark, giving it a meaning consistent with his interpretation and failing to seek clarification .... well I just don't think that was wise. It was never my intent to cause trouble, and having done so I shall take some time out. Happy riding. Steve
  20. twigg
    Thank you Rick. None was intended
  21. twigg
    Mostly it is about Product Liability. Those Corporations are run by attorneys.
  22. twigg
    On the other hand .... A Moderator starting a Flame Thread ... Yeah, that's real smart. Pretty much guaranteed to upset some folks.
  23. twigg
    Maybe you need to read more carefully, if that is the conclusion you reached.
  24. twigg
    There will be no continuity normally, and continuity when you apply 12V to the low side. If it clicks, and when "clicked" there is no continuity, then it is bad.
  25. twigg
    There are They are directly below the diaphragm covers, right on the center line and may be hidden behind an anti-tamper bung. You need to remove the fairing lowers to get at two of them
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