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twigg

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Everything posted by twigg

  1. twigg
    Extend the kickstand to stretch the spring, then jam quarters or washers in between the coils to keep it extended when you relax the stand to remove it.
  2. twigg
    Question: How difficult is it to replace the "difficult" mounts ... and what real-world advantages do they give?
  3. twigg
    Most of the mid-sized sports bikes are very easy to ride, they just aren't all that comfortable for distance work. I would try to persuade her Dad to book the course and give her as a birthday or Christmas present.
  4. twigg
    Nope ... It's a Tourist Guide.
  5. twigg
    Just out of interest .... Would a decent steering damper not be a better idea than over-torquing the bearings?
  6. twigg
    That light is telling you that one of the warning circuits is activated. It's not the sidestand, or the engine would cut when you put it in gear. If there are bars showing on the gas gauge, and gas in the tank, it's not that either. Which leaves battery warning, low brake fluid, headlight or tail lights. When I got mine they all lit up like a Christmas tree, except the sidestand .... Eventually, I made them all go out. So one of the LCD warning squares (or more) should be showing an icon ... There is your problem. The other issue that can cause problems is the internal grounding in the CMU. Mine needed jumpering to a good ground. If you have replaced bulbs with LED, the tail light will throw a warning ... A HID headlight will do the same on the Headlight section. Faulty battery monitor and low brake fluid or a bad switch in the reservoir. Blown headlight bulb (either filament). The headlight will appear to be working, but that is the Reserve Lighting Unit fooling you. (Is the white light on the dash illuminated?
  7. twigg
    Make it easy on yourself, and go the resistor route My CMU has had the battery warning bypassed, and jumpers across the tailight warning and the headlight. LED bulbs and an HID headlight made that necessary. Now it only actually warns me of Sidestand and has a working Gas Gauge. Oh, and Brake fluid level. Personally, I think they are really the ones that matter most.
  8. twigg
    Unlikely, especially if you can't detect a mis-fire on cylinder #2. It's much more likely to be either a sticky tach, or electrical issue caused by corrosion (which could be between the TCI and the tach). You could check that by simply swapping he TCI for a known good one, if you have access to one. Do the simple stuff ... Check and clean all the connectors and grounds, especially the grounds.
  9. twigg
    You might want to check the wiring diagram. It's possible that both units share a common ground. If they do, it could be that simple.
  10. twigg
    You have an RSV .... I do not know if that model has one. Have to wait for those with the RSV expertise to chime in. On the 1st Gen, when you bypass the RLU all the alterations are reversible.
  11. twigg
    No chopping necessary. Just mount a switch on a small bracket under the right-hand switchgear. Use the bolt that holds the switch together.
  12. twigg
    Alaska for sure. I wouldn't be opposed to adding Hawaii, but it adds a dimension that most of us can never really achieve. The Haul Road, otoh, is on my Bucket List.
  13. twigg
    I also understood that all 48 ... it should really be 49, were required by both teams
  14. twigg
    You can clean the connectors without removing the instrument panel .... Probably get to them with the headlight out, although you may have to dismantle a bit more than that. Try the easy things first.
  15. twigg
    Try cleaning and re-seating the connectors. They rarely simply fail completely.
  16. twigg
    I have no idea what the "code eliminator thing" is. If you intend using the original bulb connector .... and you probably should .... with a bi-xenon kit, then you need to completely by-pass the Reserve Lighting Unit. If you do not do this the unit will go crazy thinking that bulbs have blown. It will then send voltage to the wrong place either damaging your HID kit, or not dipping and raising the beam correctly. It's an easy job, search the site for instructions.
  17. twigg
    35W or 55W ... any kit you use will come with a harness to wire directly to the battery, or a switched source, and a relay. You need to wire it so that it comes on with the ignition, but can be switched independently. I use a switch that interrupts the ground side. When you hit the starter the battery voltage can fall below the threshold voltage for the ballast. If that happens the light will go out until it is power cycled, leaving you in the same position you were in when you started. The kits are fine ... 6000k is a little hot, but should be fine. 5000 or 4300k is better if that is an option. The retrofit kits work, and they will give you more light than you have now, and for longer. The better option is a full upgrade to a Projector, if you have room for one, and are prepared to do the conversion. I did, and I wouldn't ever go back.
  18. twigg
    I was curious about this because I use Garmin BaseCamp and, occasionally, Streets and Trips. Also, I have never heard anyone in the LD community mention it. It is free if you want basic trip planning and Adware. If you want anything more it costs 35 Euros, the 10 Euro option does nothing other than remove the ads. If you are paying 35 Euros then it needs to be at least as good as Streets and Trips ... and it isn't. Not even close. This program might be a useful free (ish) option for those wanting to plan a quick trip but I can't see any advantage over using Google Navigation for that, which is free. It's always useful though, to take a look at alternatives.
  19. twigg
    lol ... So it does. Forgive me, I was looking on the unit and the mic port is actually on the mount. The 765T is a superb unit. I love mine .... it does pretty much everything the Zumo 550 does, without the $700 price tag. One advantage the Zumo has is that you can choose which Bluetooth Profile to send which has advantages in some setups.
  20. twigg
    Only via bluetooth. There is a mic built in to the unit, but no way to plug in an external mic.
  21. twigg
    Garmin does still make GPS units that play mp3s. The rec. for the 765 I can support. I have one and it's excellent.
  22. twigg
    If you cut the right size holes, you can still get those vents new, from craigvetter.com
  23. twigg
    Sure looks like a hubcap to me Good pic.
  24. twigg
    There are two different things going on here. Wind blast .... That is the straight forward effect of riding a naked bike .... you are out in the breeze, and buffeting. The windshield protects you from the blast of driving through the air at speed. The bigger and wider the screen, the more protection, at a price. But the shield creates a vacuum behind it as you move. That vacuum drags turbulent air round behind the shield, causing buffeting. With a small shield that can affect the driver, with a larger one the passenger, and with a super-large one you both can be protected, but expect a hit in performance and gas mileage. One answer is to vent the screen. That breaks the vacuum and smooths the airflow. It can be quite effective at shielding both rider and pillion, even with a relatively small shield. You trade some wind blast for much reduced buffeting. You can go one further and install an adjustable screen. This is a second shield attached by brackets onto the original, cut down shield. By design they are "vented". The advantage is that you can ride with it raised most of the time, but lower it when you need to be able to see over it ... at night, in the rain, etc.
  25. twigg
    Heh ... I don't even think they both have to be the same Although I can't think why anyone would install one one way and the other opposite. What it does affect is the amount of oil needed to achieve the correct level. If the tight coils are to the bottom, it needs less. One very good reason to measure fork oil from the top of the tube, and not by volume.
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