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twigg

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Everything posted by twigg

  1. twigg
    Good to have you around. Enjoy the group, and the riding
  2. twigg
    One of the better ways to use it is to get some in the carbs BEFORE it is laid up for a few months. Generally it will clean up carbs that are just a bit grimy, but will not help if any passages are already blocked.
  3. twigg
    Just so all y'all understand that this isn't something that can't be tried by all ... I did the math. For the 12 hour duration I need to maintain an overall average speed of 50 to 51 mph, to get to the finish in good time. Clearly that includes all stopped time, but the actual pace is modest, and speed limits do not have to be broken ... actually you can ride under them. You just have to keep the wheels turning, at a modest pace, as much as possible. As a comparison ... The SaddleSore 1000 pace is 43 mph, and the Bun Burner Gold is 63 mph. The SaddleSore is comparatively easy, the BBG is very difficult.
  4. twigg
    Thanks ... 600 miles is just the rally. I also have 200 miles to get to the start, and 500 miles home afterwards. It's all good ... barring the unforseen it's nothing the bike hasn't already done twice in the last few weeks.
  5. twigg
    Before you spend your hard-earned on something that is not a mainstream product, do the research carefully. The current flavour of the month in Bluetooth Communicators is the SENA SMH10. The motorcycle forums are filled with praise ... so go looking for good reviews before you invest.
  6. twigg
    Thanks Red
  7. twigg
    Leaving home at 2 am for a 6 am start in Brady, TX. Should cover around 600 miles before the finish in Brady. Live Map with 10 minute position updates is here: http://spotwalla.com/tripViewer.php?id=461d4f9876a08079a Map goes live tonight and will stop when I get home on Sunday. There are 40+ riders taking part this year, this is my first time.
  8. twigg
    You did good I actually use those holes for RAM mounts, but I had considered fitting blindspot mirrors in them. I will upgrade the stock mirrors asap. I have a 1300 mile ride this weekend, and I wish I had those mirrors already!
  9. twigg
    That is a stunningly good idea. I find the stock mirrors a complete pita. By the way .... is it easy to find threaded mirrors that will fit the threaded holes next to the clutch and brake master cylinders?
  10. twigg
    Looks like a decent unit, especially for motorcycles whose starting demands are fairly modest. Remember, those who use AGM and Gel batteries, that you need one with the correct charging cycle. It's a simple circuit that prevents the charge voltage rising above 14V.
  11. twigg
    I have three of the Schumacher ranger from Walmart. I have found them all to be reliable and reasonably price. FWIW, if I were buying today I would try to spring for a Starter/Charger.
  12. twigg
    Most of the "wiggling" that tyres do on the road is disconcerting, rather than unsafe although I do agree that minimising it would be nice. The Spitfires are decent in this respect and tyres with a center rib at the front are more prone ... They do, however, offer a bit less rolling resistance, so it's a trade off,. Just like everything else. Couple of questions ... How do Radial tyres fare on the 1st Gens, and what sizes have people fitted? I have nothing against Cross-Ply or Bias-Belted, I just wondered what the differences were.
  13. twigg
    Make a "best guess" ... You have just as much chance of being correct as the Loss Adjuster. If it were mine it would probably be a Clearview
  14. twigg
    Please do ... Maybe they could tell me where I can get a CT for my 1st Gen. I ride a long way at modest speeds, and would very much appreciate the longevity and extra grip ... especially in the wet.
  15. twigg
    That would be my choice too.
  16. twigg

    MSF Course

    twigg replied to a topic in Safety and Education

    The closest ones to here are $275. Mrs Twigg has one in her future
  17. twigg
    It's easier for me, I don't use CB and I replaced the intercom with a very nice Autocom, fitted in the trunk. If you remove the original equipment there is plenty of room to fit a radio in the left panel. If it's fitted behind a black waterproof flip housing, it looks decent too. You would lose the CB and intercom though. I always thought it came down to a simple choice of keeping the OEM equipment going (nothing wrong with that), or removing it and building a system from scratch.
  18. twigg
    They are mis-informed Mine has already done a 1700 and 1600 mile weekend this year, and this coming weekend I fully expect it to drag my butt another 1300 miles. They can all break down, I suppose, but well maintained they are not much more likely to do so than newer bikes.
  19. twigg
    Tricky judgement call. The electronics are elderly, as are the replacements. They may be accurate for the period, but they are increasingly unreliable for everyday use. Personally, I would fit an aftermarket stereo with the option to plug in mp3 or satellite, etc. It will be more flexible, more reliable and reasonably priced. Others will choose to keep the old stuff going as long as practical.
  20. twigg
    I use Bridgestone Spitfire II They are cheap, they are Bridgestone and I have never once had cause to doubt them.
  21. twigg
    You have any idea what's causing this Gary? As you know, mine is one of several with a similar issue. I'm not bothered, and not pressing but I'm about to "enjoy" another 1300 mile weekend and fixing it eventually will bring much peace of mind.
  22. twigg
    Dot 3 or 4 Brake Fluid .... Either will work, 4 is better 15W40 Heavy Duty Diesel Engine Oil - 4000 Mile change interval. 80W90 Gear Oil in Final Drive Pick pretty much any coolant. Check, but these days they are all pretty safe for aluminum. 87 Octane Gas, either with or without ethanol, and mine is perfectly happy on 86 with ethanol, as I found out in Colorado. If you are doing a baseline maintenance, spring for a K&N Filter. None of the filters are cheap but with the K&N you only buy once. No jetting needed. Oil filters are cheap. Check the valves and change the valve cover gaskets for the newer versions (skydoc_17 has them). Do that before you try to sync the carbs. Change the fluid in the brakes and clutch. Thoroughly flush the cooling system, which is harder than it sounds. Remove the small pipe above the drain valve and check that it isn't completely blocked. If it is, remove the radiator and clean it properly. It can take a few tries to get the beast cooling effectively. Just note that when it is in good order, it WILL keep the needle in the green in traffic at ambient temps over 100F. If yours won't, it's not clean That would be a decent start and I know it answered a few questions you didn't ask. Enjoy, they are fun to ride.
  23. twigg
    Nicely done
  24. twigg
    Those parts appear on eBay regularly,usually at a reasonable cost.
  25. twigg
    Yeah ... I meant a 14mm MC, not necessarily the R1 version
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