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twigg

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Everything posted by twigg

  1. Think "surfboard". A thin glassfibre shell over a styrofoam core. Very light and incredibly stiff.
  2. I'd be reluctant to remove them at this point. While it is fair to say that the factory set them up a little on the lean side, then sealed them, they should not have been popping in the exhaust. Removing the caps and turning each screw back maybe 1/4 turn might help, but it is more likely that the popping is caused by air getting in, rather than the mixture setting. There are not very many places air can get in, so it's sometimes fairly easy to work it out. Favourite places are the header pipe gaskets and the carburetor butterfly shaft seals. .. and the carb to intake holders. I'm not saying that adjusting the idle mixture will not solve the problem ... but it might not, and it might not be the best place to start, is all.
  3. :rotf: Why mess around with the cheap stuff, when you could buy this: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-190-102-Channel-ScopeMeter-SCC-290/dp/B007V55H5A/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1336440178&sr=1-1]Amazon.com: Fluke 190-102/S 100 MHz, 1.25 MS/s, 2 Channel Color ScopeMeter built-in DMM & SCC-290 Kit: Home Improvement@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51-sQBOVoZL.@@AMEPARAM@@51-sQBOVoZL[/ame]
  4. On the original list, the first two.
  5. Can't quite interpret that funny number but ... If you are getting a consistent reading with every other connection, then the chances are good that the diodes are okay.
  6. There aren't any pros. They are annoying in the extreme, cause the bike to run lean, and get us all a bad name with those who don't ride, and don't want to hear you half a mile away. In fact, they are almost as annoying as Jetskis.
  7. Quite so But you can put one on your daytime running lights. That would be pretty effective.
  8. The diode tests on the Rectifier are a bit complicated. The manual gives the readings for the stock rectifier, and shows you which terminals to test. Download it from this site if you haven't already. I thought you said you have an aftermarket rectifier. If so the readings may be different, but they should be broadly in line and you can use the stock figures to show any obvious problems.
  9. The second one on my list does tach too. Personally, I like the look of the one Carbon One pictured, with the inductive pick-up. I had a PM about setting the Idle Mixture, so for those who don't know .. If you use the Idle Drop Method you need a tach that can register rpm changes of about 50rpm. The bike Tach is not good enough for this, but most meters are.
  10. That last test, that Brian suggested, was the one that ruled out anything other than a stator issue. He suggested that test because a faulty Reg/Rec might have interfered with the results of the earlier tests. It's got to come out now ..... You might get lucky. If the screws holding the stator have come out (if that's possible), you may get away with it. It doesn't mean that your Reg/Rec is good, but it does mean that your stator is bad.
  11. I should make allowances for the varied level of expertise, and be happy that folk are prepared to get their hands dirty. Digital meters can be daunting at first ... then you wonder how you ever managed without one.
  12. For Father's Day, Christmas, Birthday ... or just because you are in Walmart and they have them on the shelves. Without one you are like the blind man, in the dark room, looking for a black cat ..... that isn't there!! This one is perfect, and it does "tach" too ... helps setting Idle Mixture: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3340-Automotive-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000KIMHRQ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1336434517&sr=8-5]Amazon.com: Equus 3340 Automotive Digital Multimeter: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41BBJ2IF%2BkL.@@AMEPARAM@@41BBJ2IF%2BkL[/ame] This one is decent and cheaper: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP7677-Automotive-TroubleShooter-Multimeter/dp/B0002LZU7K/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1336434517&sr=8-13]Amazon.com: Actron CP7677 Automotive TroubleShooter - Digital Multimeter and Engine Analyzer: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51BSKJ7JKYL.@@AMEPARAM@@51BSKJ7JKYL[/ame] Even this will get the job done: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3300-Hands-free-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B001O1X65A/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1336434517&sr=8-6]Amazon.com: Equus 3300 Hands-free Digital Multimeter: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41MXDQOCOHL.@@AMEPARAM@@41MXDQOCOHL[/ame] If you are wealthy, or a pro ... then this would be nice to have: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-77-4-Automotive-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000U8WQ4U/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1336434983&sr=8-12]Amazon.com: Fluke 77-4 Automotive Digital Multimeter: Home Improvement@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31UUF4XwNDL.@@AMEPARAM@@31UUF4XwNDL[/ame] It should be the first thing in everyone's toolkit. Don't leave home without one.
  13. Yes, just run it only long enough to do the tests. It will start and run as long as there is power in the battery.
  14. I knew there was a reason that I like buying stuff from you, Earl. Just out of interest ... Is the stator you sell the same output as stock. or higher?
  15. Nice Ride. Planning doing the Oklahoma sites when I can get my lazy friend on his bike. All seven can be done in 1079 miles, for an "In-State" SS1000
  16. Not enough juice is coming down those wires so you need to look at what is on the business end. Maybe the stator is loose on the shaft. Are they keyed?
  17. I haven't done it, but from what I have read I think you can get away without draining the oil if the bike is on it's sidestand. Others will have a better idea.
  18. Well at least we have found the source of the problem, now we need to get to the cause. Stator cover has to come off for an inspection.
  19. Thanks ... It's all good
  20. Do one more check before the solder joint .... ie. from the wire coming from the stator with nothing between. If it's still reading 2.5V it has to be opened up to find out why.
  21. Okay ... to make this easy to visualise ... Imagine each of the three wires is labelled 1, 2 and 3 Stab the red lead in 1 and the black lead in 2 Then Red in 1 and black in 3 Then red in 2 and black in 3.
  22. There are three wires. Stab any two, then two different, then the final pairing. The stator is three-phase AC. Each of those wires carries one phase which the rectifier converts to DC ... Then the Regulator limits the output to 14.5V The AC voltage coming out is quite high when the phases are added, but should be 15 to 18V when measured as suggested. All three "pairs" should read the same.
  23. With CV carbs it's worse than that. In theory the idle mixture only affects 1/4 throttle. After that the needle takes over to about 3/4 throttle and the Main Jet after that. That's the simple way carbs are described so that folk can begin to get an idea of how they work. In practise the Idle Mixture has a significant affect right up to about 1/2 throttle on a diminishing basis. Now imagine you are on the road .... even when cruising at highway speeds you will rarely have the throttle open more than halfway. During acceleration you will, but cruising not so much. The implication here is that the Idle Mixture setting plays a significant role in most of your riding, and the Main Jet you could virtually run without You will notice a significant smoothing out, and better gas mileage if you take the time to set the Idle Mixture correctly and get the needles shimmed correctly ... unless they are already good to go
  24. It's okay ... I don't actually get worried by alternate views Here is the thing .... '86 or '96 .... If you have to ask here about carb sync, then it is probably safe to presume that the guy is fairly inexperienced at the job. That said, do what the manual says. If it says different for the '96, then do that It's fine to depart from the manual once you are experienced enough to understand what you are doing, and deal with, and understand the results you get. Anyway ... folk can read the thread ... take note of the varying answers and find their own appropriate solution. It usually works for me
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