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twigg

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Everything posted by twigg

  1. twigg
    It was also posted on the LD Rider List today, so I had you at an advantage That said, it never hurts to remind each other that we need to be vigilant about this kind of thing.
  2. twigg
    This is pretty old news. That ad ran, online only, for about a day before Nissan pulled it following a hurricane of protest. They apologised for it.
  3. twigg
    Heh ... give it time and you'll get a million suggestions, all of them having merit. One of the problems big engined bikes have is that they are rarely run much above half throttle. They are cruised, lazily and the engines don't like it much. A fouled plug, or minor carbon build-up can often be cleared by "running it like you stole it" for fifty miles. I mean, get it up on the highway and really make it work hard. You will do it no harm at all, it's fun and you may even clear up a slight mis-fire. Just watch for the LEOs.
  4. twigg
    Ahem .... I got six correct. I missed the 100 years war by one year
  5. twigg
    They are not listed separately on the parts fiche, but that could be because they are a sub-assembly. I think they are a standard fitment ... anyway, my '86 has them.
  6. twigg
    Mine is like that. Cable ties hold everything together, and firm. One day I may get around to replacing various fairing parts, or rebuilding the tabs, but for now cable ties hold them in place perfectly.
  7. twigg
    They go on AFTER the handlebar nut is torqued. You do know that the nut holding the handlebar is the weakest link? :rotf:
  8. twigg
    Where did the graphics come from? Looks like a nice job.
  9. twigg
    I'm thinking that one of the carbs has a blocked, or partially blocked pilot jet. Those things are tiny, and would produce exactly the symptoms you are describing with one cylinder only running part of the time. Seafoam will not clear it ... well not usually.
  10. twigg
    They look like handle bar weights.
  11. twigg
    20 weight oil is too heavy. Springs don't need "breaking in" The lack of a spacer should soften them quite a bit. Tyre pressure is, I think 32lb recommended ... so go softer than you have been. I would change out the oil for 10 weight ... It affects both the compression AND the rebound. Reduce tyre pressure to 32 psi and set the oil level at the standard (5.5" ?) That's enough to begin with
  12. twigg
    What weight oil did you use. I am 180lbs and have no trouble with 15W oil, and zero air pressure. 10W would be a little "softer" but given the physics I don't think our weight differences affect it much. You could also reduce the pre-load by shortening the plastic spacer, or even removing it. If you haven't already ... disconnect the anti-dive too.
  13. twigg
    Not on that Corbin seat ... they are hard as iron. :rotf:
  14. twigg
    It's a daunting job that is actually ridiculously easy with the correct tools, and saves enough in Dealer fees to buy another project. Good Job!
  15. twigg
    Consider this a moment to educate me .... Why were you using diesel? Not that I can think of a reason not to ...
  16. twigg
    Yup ... This makes perfect sense too.
  17. twigg
    Once the motor is running the alternator produces the power needed to keep it running. If it is quitting when external power is removed then there is a problem with the charging circuits. I would start by checking the main fuse, and all the connections and grounds. It is also possible to check the alternator output with the motor running, but they are finicky things and it would be smart to have a workshop manual handy.
  18. twigg
    First thing, Earl, is that it is more than decent that you have covered this failure, even without knowing what caused it. It may have been a faulty Stator, but it will be important that Mike does some detective work or te risk is that this one may go the same way as the last. No one wants two failures!
  19. twigg
    Don't you have a stator to replace? :rotf:
  20. twigg
    It's too regular and predictable to be the Kill switch. Mine runs perfectly, for many hundreds of miles with the OEM TCI. Switch to the new one and the problem appears.
  21. twigg
    Let me fix that for him: "the 100W no longer being consumed by the original set-up is now available for any other accessories I choose to fit."
  22. twigg
    It's simply the case that the HID bulb is putting out about 2 1/2X the amount of light of your previous bulb. If the results are disappointing it is because all that light is not going where it is supposed to. Crucial is that the bulb remains exactly at the focal point of the headlight reflector, and some are better at this than others. It's complicated by the fact that the bulb moves in the Bi-Xenon kits, and it can't be in the right place in both positions. Those kits, and I have one too on one of my bikes, are an improvement over what you had, but how much of an improvement depends on a number of things. If you really want to see what HID can do, you need either dedicated lights, or a projector. The projector route isn't too complicated, and it addresses all of the common issues .... and lights up the night
  23. twigg
    That is not a pretty sight. I wonder what caused it ... any ideas?
  24. twigg
    Some exhaust popping is almost an inevitable result of a lean set-up. Manufacturers set bike up as lean as they dare to make it easier to comply with emissions laws. It probably didn't pop when it left the factory, but time, mileage and tiny air leaks soon get it popping It is actually completely harmless, even though it indicates a condition that could be resolved if you wanted to.
  25. twigg
    Skydoc (Earl) has them. I bought them and they work a treat.
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