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twigg

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Everything posted by twigg

  1. twigg
    lol ... I have heard him on TV ... He apparently doesn't know much about anything else, so why not? The guy has to have a hobby, maybe he knows about cars
  2. twigg
    Well the PD would be rightly concerned with liability issues. In the real world, the sticky worms work. The tyres on our bikes are rated for much higher speeds than are legal in the US, and in normal riding really aren't stressed very much. If the hole is small (you have to really push hard to get the reamer through, and the plug in), then you are probably going to be safe riding the life of the tyre on that repair. High performance bikes, and track days don't count
  3. twigg
    Here is the problem with the "seat padding" suggestions, although I do thank you for them. Seats are an art! The stock seat is useless. If all you ever do is ride a couple of hundred miles, then it's fine. After that it makes its limitations felt ... painfully felt. Even the Saddlemen Road Sofa I have is only good for about 500 miles. So I have a stock seat with an AirHawk (the new one), covered with a gorgeous sheepskin. That, I find, is good for anything up to about 1000 miles. It is not good enough for successive days like that, for that you need the Russell (about $600 ... ouch!) Adding stuff like gel pads and padding will help, but only for a while. With the trips I have taken this year I don't get the kind of butt ache that extra padding or gel inserts would take care of because it is the basic riding position that is the issue. I can have a seat built that raises me up, unbending my knees somewhat, and lowering my feet would help some more if that could be done. It doesn't take much to make a massive difference.
  4. twigg
    I have this one and would recommend it to anyone. It requires a 15 Amp fused outlet: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Slime-COMP06-Heavy-Duty-12-Volt-Inflator/dp/B000M8R0QM/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1344530877&sr=1-3&keywords=slime+tire+inflator]Amazon.com: Slime COMP06 Pro Power Heavy-Duty 12-Volt Tire Inflator: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41%2BIz8oqeIL.@@AMEPARAM@@41%2BIz8oqeIL[/ame]
  5. twigg
    Same here. These are the stock plugs recommended for the bike. They just work.
  6. twigg
    Thanks for the replies folks. On the "peg-scraping" ... Yes, I get that but on my LD bike I don't ride so aggressively. This is a bike I need to be comfortable while I "sit there, twist that" for up to twenty four hours. I have the pegs adjusted fully to the rear, which helped, and I plan on having Russell build me a seat with the sitting position raised a little. I was just wondering if anyone had successfully lowered the pegs too. I don't have to move my foot from the peg to shift up or down, or use the brake. I took care of that a while ago. I also don't mind not using the pouches because I have a decent tankbag permanently in place. I know that my request is unusual, because, quite frankly, I am an idiot for taking such long rides .... but it's what I do and I am at the point of simply trying to tweak the bike to perfection (for an '86) This year, to date, I have four Long Distance Rides completed. An 1800 mile weekend (thirty two hours), a 1300 miler (thirty hours), 1100 miles (30 hours) and 1000 miles, two up last weekend. Heh ... They seem to be getting shorter
  7. twigg
    If you ruled out other problems by swapping the filters back and fixing it then you have two choices. You can run with paper filters, or you can fix the fueling issues created by more air through the free flowing K&N. As standard, a change to K&N shouldn't require re-jetting. But you are getting more air in, and if it was running marginally lean, you just leaned it out more, hence the issues. You may have an air leak that was not causing a problem until you introduced more air. Raising the needles should restore the balance, because that will let in more gas, but it isn't a cure for an air leak, it's just a disguise. Eventually you will have other issues with a rough idle, or a high idle being favourite.
  8. twigg
    The LD Riders discussed those kits recently and the concensus was a thumbs down. They can work, they frequently don't work. The worm type are preferred because if the hole is reamed correctly, and the worm properly inserted, then they almost never fail. The glue helps, but mostly it helps as a lubricant when the worm is inserted, because the repairs tend to hold just as well even without glue.
  9. twigg
    Has anyone successfully managed to lower the front footpegs on a 1st Gen. I am 6ft tall with a 33" inseam. The bike, despite its bulk, is cramped. Even with the pegs adjusted as far back as they will go there still isn't room for me to fit the two front pockets without my knees catching them. For the first 500 miles this isn't much of an issue. After that, up to around 1000 miles I start getting cramp in my knees and pelvis. This can be alleviated some by a combination of shifting my feet onto the highway pegs, or riding with just my toes on the riders pegs. Standing on the pegs helps too, but the wind blast is no fun! So I am thinking that "unbending" the knees a bit would actually help quite a lot. That could be done by raising the seat, or lowering the footpegs. I can deal with the seat but was wondering if anyone had managed to drop the pegs by about an inch.
  10. twigg
    Who makes that one?
  11. twigg
    Thanks. I enjoyed the ride, and writing the report
  12. twigg
    If you mean me, then the ground mod didn't fail, it's sat on my bench, intact. The starter simply went back to being un-reliable, especially in the heat of the OK summer. The new starter has never failed to spin.
  13. twigg
    Sometimes a ride is just a ride, and occasionally it means more than that. Enjoy: http://www.dailykos.com/story/2012/08/06/1117354/--I-am-in-Awe-of-my-Wife-Jodie-picked-the-Title
  14. twigg

    Hid lights

    twigg replied to Brenda H's topic in Watering Hole

    I've had a great experience with HID lighting. My '86 VR is fitted with an HID Projector in place of the standard headlight, plus a 4" HID Driving Light (Eurobeam pattern). It is waiting to be joined by a Spotbeam partner, but as it stands those lights pretty much turn night into day. I rode through the Arkansas Mountains, including a trip to Signal Hill all in the dark, and never had a single problem with the lights.
  15. twigg
    Headlight modulators are legal, by Federal Law, in all 50 States. There are rules, read 'em, but most maker's units comply, including the Signal Dynamics (Hint: They need a sunset sensor) Not sure about the brake light modulators, but as part of the LD Rider community for several years I have not heard of anyone being ticketed for using one (and most of the riders do) ... That would be over millions of miles.
  16. twigg
    It's a sensible upgrade, as it increasing the sizes of the power and ground cables between the battery/starter and the engine/battery. However, that two-brush starter is weak, and the grounding mod might not be enough, or may only work for a while. That's what happened to mine. I made the mod and it worked for a while, then it failed again. The permanent repair was to replace the starter with a 4-brush from a 2005 bike. Ten thousand miles later it is working flawlessly, and I didn't do the ground mod on the new starter.
  17. twigg
    That would be a shame, although I get it. If we can find an answer to this issue, these units will help folk for years to come. The first batch were just fine and although I haven't fixed mine yet, I'm not giving up on it. I need to find time to re-program it and test.
  18. twigg
    A wider tyre won't actually put much more rubber on the ground. The correct tyre is probably the best. A wider tyre generally requires a wider rim to work best. They are usually softer compounds, and designed for a performance envelope our bikes cannot reach. I have ridden my VR (as have others), with standard tyres in monsoon type rain, and 110F heat. I have never had tyre issues.
  19. twigg
    Cutting a windshield is pretty straightforward, even if you do have your heart in your mouth every time you do it. A jigsaw with the correct blade, run slowly will help with the heat. Even then the two halves may join together behind the cut, but have no fear, it will snap apart easily. The cut edge will need plenty of sanding and make sure there are no sharp edges left. Once you have it smooth then you can "flame" the edge with a propane torch. I've done this a few times and the results have been great.
  20. twigg
    Last weekend, in temperatures too hot to describe http://www.dailykos.com/story/2012/07/11/1108494/--Hopeless-to-Hope Enjoy Steve
  21. twigg
    Is this humour too? No one has ever suggested you not share your experience. You did share it, then appeared to get snotty when your experience was contrary to most others. Wanna back away slowly and start again? FWIW ... My experience with motorcyclesuperstore.com has been excellent.
  22. twigg
    Replacing the breather hose from the airbox is a breeze with these: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-3495-11-Inch-Reach-Pliers/dp/B000NQ15ZK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1339468392&sr=8-4&keywords=hose+pliers]Amazon.com: TEKTON 3495 11-Inch Long Reach Hose Ring Pliers: Home Improvement@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31mIk%2BW20hL.@@AMEPARAM@@31mIk%2BW20hL[/ame]
  23. twigg
    That's it Jeff. It wasn't on the diagram I was looking at.
  24. twigg
    There is a small o-ring that seals the right-angle end of the metal drain valve assembly into the lower part of the thermostat housing. I can't find it listed separately on the fiche, which probably means it is only sold as part of the drain valve sub-assembly. So make sure you didn't lose the one you have, and if it needs replacing you will need to measure carefully and go find a metric replacement online. It will only need to be resistant to anti-freeze with the appropriate temp rating (maybe 300F).
  25. twigg
    He also needs the smaller ring that seals the metal pipe in the lower half of the thermostat housing. As me what happens if you forget that one
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