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Primebeef

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Everything posted by Primebeef

  1. This is where I got mine and you can't beat the price....... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FLANDERS-1-INCH-APE-BAR-WIDE-KNURLED-CHROME-METRIC-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5644fa020aQQitemZ370524422666QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
  2. I have the RSTD bars, without end weights for sale. $60.00 plus shipping.
  3. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Sent you a PM Robert...... Bruce
  4. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Sent you a PM Robert...... Bruce
  5. Got my card in about 4 weeks from the date I sent in all the info. And I sent my info in on May 6th.
  6. Here is an article that examines oil filters, I found it to be very helpful in determining which filter I use on my bike. I use a HiFlo 303 filter and haven't had any problems. I buy my filters from PowerSports Superstore and the last batch was $4.95 ea plus shipping. http://www.tobycreek.org/oil_filters/
  7. I use Prestone Extended Life Antifreeze, in the yellow container. It is straight and will have to be diluted with distilled water. It is silicate, phospate, borate and nitrate free. Also says it's safe to use with aluminum engines. Claims to protect up to 150,00 miles or 5 years.
  8. After installing my new Flanders handlebars on my RSTD, with the assistance of the great write up (with pictures) by “Usnmustang”, I proceeded with the next step, installing the end weights. Not having the materials “Usnmustang” described in his article, I searched and found an idea by “Phoneman1981”. After a few emails back and forth I modified his design a little and came up with the following article posted below. Once again, a big Thank You to both, Usnmustang and Phoneman1981 for the time, effort and write up which made the handlebar change an enjoyable project. ============= ============ Modifying “Phoneman1981” design, I used a 1 ¼” long piece of ¾” Grey PVC conduit instead of the many washers required to take up said space. I felt this would insure a more rigid installation of end weights. (A longer piece of PVC could be used if desired.) I did have to do a little sanding in order to get the conduit to fit inside the handlebars and in the end it was a tight fit. Parts used where: (2) ¼” - 20 x 6” long bolts. (5” would work, but I had 6” on hand) (2) ¼” – 20 T-nuts (2) ¾” rubber stoppers (4) ¾” washers (1) 2 ½” long section of ¾” PVC conduit Sandpaper (to sand PVC conduit) Parts can be purchased at Home Depot or Lowes for around $10.00 or less. If I was to do it again I would probably use 1” rubber stoppers and cut them down (end off) in order to have a tad tighter fit. I pulled hard on the end weights and couldn’t get them to move, so I feel pretty sure they will be there for years to come. I am going to disassemble the project and reinstall using loctite on the treads, so you might want to do that the first time around. Just another idea to consider.....enjoy.
  9. After installing my new Flanders handlebars on my RSTD, with the assistance of the great write up (with pictures) by “Usnmustang”, I proceeded with the next step, installing the end weights. Not having the materials “Usnmustang” described in his article, I searched and found an idea by “Phoneman1981”. After a few emails back and forth I modified his design a little and came up with the following article posted below. Once again, a big Thank You to both, Usnmustang and Phoneman1981 for the time, effort and write up which made the handlebar change an enjoyable project. ============= ============ Modifying “Phoneman1981” design, I used a 1 ¼” long piece of ¾” Grey PVC conduit instead of the many washers required to take up said space. I felt this would insure a more rigid installation of end weights. (A longer piece of PVC could be used if desired.) I did have to do a little sanding in order to get the conduit to fit inside the handlebars and in the end it was a tight fit. Parts used where: (2) ¼” - 20 x 6” long bolts. (5” would work, but I had 6” on hand) (2) ¼” – 20 T-nuts (2) ¾” rubber stoppers (4) ¾” washers (1) 2 ½” long section of ¾” PVC conduit Sandpaper (to sand PVC conduit) Parts can be purchased at Home Depot or Lowes for around $10.00 or less. If I was to do it again I would probably use 1” rubber stoppers and cut them down (end off) in order to have a tad tighter fit. I pulled hard on the end weights and couldn’t get them to move, so I feel pretty sure they will be there for years to come. I am going to disassemble the project and reinstall using loctite on the treads, so you might want to do that the first time around. Just another idea to consider.....enjoy.
  10. Primebeef

    P5100006

    From the album: Stuff

  11. Primebeef

    P5100008

    From the album: Stuff

  12. OH SURE........discriminate against those of us who have blue bikes..... I like your patch idea......to the point without clutter....... nice idea RoyalG
  13. Great write up. The installation of the new handlebars yesterday was a pretty simple job thanks to your step by step instructions. Anyone looking for a set can get them for $135.54, includes shipping on EBay. They have two left. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370498466584&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT Went for a 75 mile ride and the bars felt great, no neck pain. Also it seems like the bike handles a lot better, especially at low speeds and I'm able to sit up straighter in the seat. No more leaning forward or the ole straight arm.......I now have a comfortable bend at the elbows.
  14. Great write up. The installation of the new handlebars yesterday was a pretty simple job thanks to your step by step instructions. Anyone looking for a set can get them for $135.54, includes shipping on EBay. They have two left. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370498466584&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT Went for a 75 mile ride and the bars felt great, no neck pain. Also it seems like the bike handles a lot better, especially at low speeds and I'm able to sit up straighter in the seat. No more leaning forward or the ole straight arm.......I now have a comfortable bend at the elbows.
  15. Primebeef

    Moly 60.

    I bet it was the same place I just ordered my tube from (Dexter Honda Yamaha, in Michigan) I called the Honda car dealership here and they wanted $19.00 plus tax. The Dexter people where the cheapest place I could fine. $11.47 which included shipping.
  16. That is exactly what happen on my '08 RSTD. I had about 250 miles on bike and noticed the ABS had been eaten away on the left side. Went to auto store and bought extra gas line, ran both sides down to underside of bike. Haven't noticed any performance differences or other ill effects...... I highly recommend extending the line, it's easy to do and inexpensive.
  17. Haven't replaced any of my tires yet, but when I do it will be with the Avon Venom. Ran them on my other bikes and loved them.
  18. For those thinking of doing the RK pipes install, I have found the V-Twin Clamps at Howard's Customs, $27.22 for the set, which includes shipping. It was the cheapest place I could find. I recently installed a set of RK pipes on my bike and I love the sound. Reminds me of a small V-8 with Flowmaster mufflers, nice low rumble. I didn't remove any of the baffle plates. http://www.howardscustoms.com/products/detail.asp?id=29513
  19. I got a new Yamaha light bar off of EBay for 50.00 about a month ago... I also got my Yamaha passing lights off EBay for 99.00. A lot cheaper than local dealer prices.
  20. I have bought all my boots from this place (Sheplers) and always happy with their service. Try this link to the woman's boots.....and happy shopping. http://search.sheplers.com/search?w=womens%20harness%20boots
  21. This place has them for $50.36.....plus shipping, so they may only be a couple bucks cheaper after shipping cost. http://www.knmotorcycles.com/pages/catalogs/detail/26/198/398/20262/1/0/0/1/4/90/69/338/billet-fuel-tank-mount-covers.aspx
  22. Paid via PayPal.......Thanks for your service and Merry Christmas. Bruce
  23. =============================== But does it (Kuryakyn #4613) just plug and play on a 2008 RSTD ?????? ((I really don't like the idea of cutting wires if I was to use the #4710.)) Has anyone used that model (4613) on a RSTD ????? Thanks: Bruce
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