saddlebum

Mostly everything seems to work but sometimes Radio and cluster cut out same time as the steering assist and sometimes they don't. The battery light seems to cut in and out on its own time schedule and does not occur at the same time as the other issue. So far wiggle testing any wiring that I have been able to access have not yielded any results and because the issue comes and goes it adds to the difficulty of pinning it down.

Thanks. PM'd you my email addy. Re; voltage drop test I tested all along and across all the electrical points even across terminal to wire connections and terminal to fastener points and I get 0 volts even on the MV scale I barely get a MV of voltage drop. There is no swelling or weak points in the wiring insulation either which would normally indicate corrosion inside the cable itself something I see a lot of on trucks due to road salt and DEF fluid leaks. Of course her car does not use DEF, so that of course is ruled out. I did see the same link Marcarl sent re: the short in the Harness to the alt but keep forgetting to check that out, I was also going to use a jumper with ground ing clamps to bridge/bypass some of the cables but forgot to do that as well. Coming of darkness and cold tend to numb your brain. Me Bad.

That would be a real help in trying to pinpoint the cause. As it stands right now I am just following general trouble shooting practice going over all the connections I can find but the schematics would help in not having to waste my time checking things or taking things apart I do not need to bother with.

The car has almost no rust and I have already done a quick voltage drop across the battery terminals and main accessible connections which checked out fine. I also took apart the grounds on the fender, chassis and engine block as well as the three batt connections at the Eng comp fuse block cleaned and reconnected them. Once done I fired the car up and despite the batt light being on, the car was charging in the 14.5 volts range. I checked the voltage at all interior fuses and they all were at 14.3 volt range. All of a sudden the batt indicator light went out and the voltage dropped to 12.6 volts for less than a minute and then jumped to 16.5 volts. The charging voltage then started drifting between 15.5 and 16.5 from that moment on and the Battery light remained off as well. I have not as yet disconnected the ECU to check there for corrosion as I know on many vehicles the ECU terminals can turn green or just get loose but I guess that will be my next step. That and maybe look for any ground connections I may have missed as there are a whole lot of them all over, I just concentrated on the main ones that I could get at. BTW none of this affects the way the engine starts and runs as it starts and runs like a charm.

I have an issue with my daughters 2010 ford escape but trying to find electrical diagrams has proven a total waste of time. Any help here in finding or providing schematics would be great. Here is the issue or combined issues Yesterday I took my daughters car to replace the heater resister. While driving it I noticed the battery light came on. I had just replaced the battery about 4 months ago which was still the original (so 9yrs old) Which I load tested first and it failed. At the same time I checked the charging system and it was fine. So yesterday when I put the voltmeter to it the voltage was at 9 volts I started the car and what you know no battery light and it is charging but next thing I notice its going right up to 16.7 volts. then down to 14.7 and then back up to 16.7. I am assuming that this alternator is regulated by the engine ECU rather than a regulator in the alternator though I am unable to find out for sure. I am also thinking since it will charge up to 16+ volts the Alt itself is Ok. So I am thinking bad or intermittent connection of ground or positive wire or battery voltage sense wire if there is one. Another thing that popped up was a sudden loss of power steering (this car has electric power steering assist) which tends to cut in and out. At the same time as the steering cuts in and out fuel gauge, tach and radio cut out and the heater doors move same as when you turn key off and on. At no time does the battery light come on at the same time even though it too cuts in and out it does so on its own schedule. I did a quick voltage drop across the battery terminals and main accessible connections which checked out fine and since it started getting dark and cold outside I called it a day and decided to go inside and see if I could pull up some wiring diagrams from the internet. If I found anything at all they want you to purchase or download some app that I am not sure is trustworthy. Even the purchasable ones don't appear to guarantee that your going to get what you want. Any trustworthy sites such as auto zone just don't have the particular one I need related to my daughters car. So having said all that if any one has Info I can use I would appreciate it. In the meantime I will pull on my woolly's and go out and attack this again.:snow:

And I rest my case.

Mmmm When cowpuc did you out source your typing

Now I'm confused You claim to be a member here, You claim to read all the posts inc @cowpuc's and yet you claim to remain SANE . There is absolutely no way you can possibly be sane.

Pretty but

Looking at the video she was stopped behind two other vehicles when she suddenly realized they were no longer there so she gunned it. My guess she was busy texting when she suddenly looked up to see the vehicles stopped in front of her, were no longer there and so lurched ahead without paying attention. Bottom line this could have ended badly and so thank god your OK. One question though, did she stop to see if you were ok or just keep going.

Maybe ...viewing is by Royal invitation only

Oops

What I find interesting is the fact that most lumber is harvested from crown land, Which in my limited knowledge means land owned by the people of Canada. When a company is given the Thumbs up to Harvest this land It should be done under the stipulation that the logs not be shipped out so as to benefit only a few wealthy at the top of the food chain but that it be processed her at home providing jobs for every wrung on the ladder. Lets face it, it's not entirely that our politicians are dumb but just that their heads are so far up certain butts that they can no longer think straight, nor do they care about the country as whole. Add to that a few snotty nosed children who get to play house in Ottawa because they were born with a silver spoon in their mouth and we all pay the price.

Only because someone put too much Ice cream in our drinks.

Well Good old Yammer may have moved on, but I can see he definitely has left his mark and a few misguided followers. I gotta say though I do miss Our friendly debates. This ones for you Yammer.

Nooo......It's not NORMAL it should do this every time .... But than unless your bike is two tone Black cherry and Burgundy it might just lack that extra edge On the way to the Guntersille Int. I got caught at a traffic light while following Jayceesfolly, who just made it through the light. He was going to pull over and wait and I told him to keep going since he was pulling a trailer and I figured on not having any issue catching up. When the light turned green I nailed the throttle and she came well off the front wheel through the first two gears and settled down On the third as I eased off the throttle. (Being trunk Heavy Kinda contributed to the lift obviously) but she really smoked in any case. As I accelerated to catch Jim, I suddenly noticed out of the corner of my Eye A crowed of people in a lot off to my right suddenly turn and watch me blur by. Later that night I came out of the motel to get some stuff off my bike to find two bikers looking my bike over. They informed they saw the bike earlier that day when it blew by with the front wheel off the ground through two gears and wondered what I did to the bike. Of course the bike is stock and I told them so. Turns out they were part of the crowed I passed which also turns out was a Harley Riders Appreciation BBQ.

They were definitely very good and Considering that the Canadians out sang the Americans (even when singing the American anthem) at the WNY rally, It is very surprising, Would you not agree BIG TOM

I have to agree except for the braking and that only because I am firm believer that ABS has no business being used on cars. My main reason for leaning towards the older vehicle is I want something that is simple to maintain (Heck my buddy tells me even the new chain saws require diagnostic software to diag these days)

I seem to see by the posts that some are confused when the word fiberglass enters the conversation so let me clarify. If I can. Also I will use the term Plastex but plasti-fix is the same stuff. Aircraft Spruce carries it under the Name Plasti-fix. Unless I have to, I do not repair from the outside to minimize disrupting the finish. However if I am repainting anyway then I gouge and fill from one side then once cured I gouge and fill from the other side. I only use Plastex (although I am willing to try one of the homemade ABS concoctions next time around) But I do not use the resin's (polyester or epoxy). because A) I find they do not flex the same and B) as stated before the do not not fuse with the base material but simply stick to it so in time it does crack. Secondly fiberglass heats up as it cures and a thick layer could actually produce enough heat to distort the ABS. ( I actually burned my finger once when I touched a big chunk of curing fiberglass). Also the resins require spot putty to refinish the surface if used on the outside were plastex does not and you can sand it perfectly flush and smooth with the original surface, adding more and sanding as required to get a perfect surface. which is great if your repainting. When I use fiberglass tape I use the open weave drywall tape, rather than the traditional fiber glass cloths primarily because of the open weave. First I repair the crack with the plastex and when it is semi-cured I lay on a layer of tape then bury it in more Plastex maybe add another progressive layer or two for added strength all done on the inside. to keep the Plastex from migrating to the outside of the crack I cover the crack with packing tape, rubbing it down to eliminate air bubbles. The tape also works well to fill holes by applying it to one side while apply the plastex form the other side. And folding a piece of tape over your finger makes a great none stick surface so you can use your finger to smooth out semi cured plastex. Hope this Helps answer any confusion that may exist. BTW, I am intrigued with some of the home made ABS recipes posted here and will try them for comparison. I even looked at one of my old hand crank meat grinders wondering if it would work to grind up some cut up pieces of ABS. Will have to make sure not to accidentally try to make ABS Hamburgers.

The way I see it I can usually do a lot of repairs and buy a lot of gas on what I save by not buying a new vehicle. More so since I can do my own work. Engines and transmissions can be swapped rotten chassis are another issue, so When I buy used, body and chassis condition are number one for me. As much as I love my Tundra if I had to replace it I would love to find a mint condition 60's to 80's vehicle that requires little or no diagnostic software to maintain. If it had points I would consider replacing the distributor with a pointless one though like we did back when we built muscle cars in the 60's and 70's. On another note My father used to say that the old Farmer he worked for back in 52 when he emigrated here from Holland always maintained that Canada had all the resources to be self sufficient but if we continued down the path we were going we would be nothing more than a warehouse and exporter of raw materials for the rest of the world and that only the wealthy would benefit.

As I stated before I used a mix of plastifix and fiberglass drywall tape to make one good fairing out of two good halfs. the repair remained flexible enough that ten years later when my bike fell off my fully elevated bike table it sustained absolutely no damage. If that is not flexible enough for you then I don't know. As far as cost goes I spent a total of about $200.00 for 2 large plastifix kits and considering the results, was money well spent. Secondly follow these steps I posted for slow roll and you should see minimal paint damage almost to the point of nothing more than a slight almost invisible fill mark to the original crack: {{ Put a layer of putty or clear packing tape over the crack on the outside I use clear packing tape and rub it in real good to eliminate air pockets. Then gouge/bevel the crack out on the inside about 3/4s of the way through the plastic and so it opens about 1/4 inch wide at the surface, take care not to penetrate completely to the outside surface (I use a 1/4 inch round ball burr on a Dremel tool for this). Fill the crack with plastex/plastifix using the stitch method which is explained in the instructions that come with the kit. Once it is built up flush with the inside surface cover with a piece of fiberglass dry wall tape. Wet the area down with the liquid solution then sprinkle powder on it and then wet the powder. keep alternating until the tape is covered. At this point you can either let it cure or add additional layers of tape and plastex to build it up until you feel satisfied. Once the curing is complete peel of the tape from the outside. If the tape was sealed down well their should be no trespassing on the paint job. At best you might notice an extra fine black web line }} Regarding the cost I feel it well worth it and if you use it correctly it actually does go a long why. Consider my scoot was a total wright off and I totally restored the bike to like new condition. The plastex even sands baby butt smooth and you can touch up and sand as often as needed to pull off a perfect surface for painting (no spot putty required what so ever). Here are some before and after pics. The hard part was spending a season rebuilding and painting the bike instead of riding it.

Yes it is. Sorry I did leave that part out . and because of the open weave I prefer it to regular fiberglass cloth. For more strength you just build it up in alternating layers. Just like adding rebar to concrete

Put a layer of putty or clear packing tape over the crack on the outside I use clear packing tape and rub it in real good to eliminate air pockets. Then gouge/bevel the crack out on the inside about 3/4s of the way through the plastic and so it opens about 1/4 inch wide at the surface, take care not to penetrate completely to the outside surface (I use a 1/4 inch round ball burr on a Dremel tool for this). Fill the crack with plastex/plastifix using the stitch method which is explained in the instructions that come with the kit. Once it is built up flush with the inside surface cover with a piece of fiberglass dry wall tape. Wet the area down with the liquid solution then sprinkle powder on it and then wet the powder. keep alternating until the tape is covered. At this point you can either let it cure or add additional layers of tape and plastex to build it up until you feel satisfied. Once the curing is complete peel of the tape from the outside. If the tape was sealed down well their should be no trespassing on the paint job. At best you might notice an extra fine black web line to your master piece. Note there is no heat involved here so your paint job is safe. BTW the powder is available in black, white and clear. PS the sooner you tackle this the sooner you stop the cracks from spreading which they will do if left untouched.

Hey Bob aka bongobobny just wondering how your doing. Got to thinking about you again today and was wondering if going to the outside facility is helping. God be with you my friend and keep the good fight.

You were once a boy .....who-da-thought. And hey I been trying to keep that door shut, prefer cold to damp but that flyin fool character keeps propping a stick in there so he can supply his weather machine.