saddlebum

@Freebird This thing called privacy - terms comes up in the bottom right of my screen but only when I am on the VR site. I use fire fox normally but it still comes up if I use chrome and IE. If I move the mouse over it expands and say's "protected by reCAPTCHA"

As Long as Marcarl stays quiet long enough for us to tell them that is. Heck even @tooch has a hard time getting a word in once Carl gets going .

Now Marcarl you know :backinmyday:I was declared #1 hugger As you well know, its against regulations for family to enter a contest . Since Moped is married to Yama Mama and the love of her life he is not allowed to compete If he were I would be bumped to Number 2, You would be bumped to number 3, and poor old cowpuc would be out of the top three altogether.

Still praying for both Bob and Becky. PS I check this post 3 times a day always hoping for uplifting news. If I only have time to go on site to check one post this is it. Keep fighting Bob I'm watching and hoping the father will bless us with your company for bit longer.

Sorry to hear about your loss and condolences to the family. Having just been through the same thing I can feel your pain and share in your sorrow.

I have not noticed any yet and hope I never do. This spam is getting to be real anoying at work we have had to take training seasion on detecting and avoiding getting traped by hackeers. These internet terroists can cause major issues and sadly they are getting better at it all the time. Never fails how good things always have to be ruined by someone.

Thanks for the update Carl. Still Praying for a healthy recovery for Bob and strength for Becky

Carl you look a little bamboozled . Well let me explain it to you since you can't figure it out for yourself Your in a Merry-go-round with the love of your life celebrating your birthday.

Actually there times when after finally manipulating it into neutral that even though it is in neutral the neutral light fails to come on and when you put the kickstand down at that time the engine will quit because it thinks it's in gear also it does not show 2nd gear on the display and occasionly 1st gear. But if you sit and wait for the bike to cool down suddenly the green light for neutral will come on as well as the bike becoming normal in both clutch operation and shifting through the gears.

Actually I have always felt it normally ran too cool. Even replaced the thermostat to try and bring it up a bit. But it does of course heat up in stop and go traffic or while tied up at the border at which point the fan will kick on for a bit to bring it down. No the line is routed well clear of any heat source.

Carl

This week I lost a very dear and close friend who I have known since high school and had the honor of being one of his pol bearers . Martin would have been 66 this Sept but a case of cancer took him before he could celebrate that birthday. Martin and I met while working part time for Canadian tire during our high school years and though I did not make friends easily during that time of my life, the two of us just hit it of instantly. Over the years together we worked on cars, motorcycles worked as bouncers in a bar frequented by bike and street gangs and chased girls (him having better luck than me most times). He had a tendency to come up with crazy ideas many of which he roped me into helping him with. Things like planting a 440 into a Volkswagen beetle or 383 into a triumph TR6 and replacing the square 4 in an Ariel with a Volkswagen engine which required cutting and stretching the frame (for which his Dad raked him over the coals for). Many times we worked in a freezing cold shack in the middle of winter that didn't even keep the wind out and when he needed the use of a pit he simply dug a hole in the dirt floor and parked the car over top of it. He eventually started his own little one man body shop where as well as doing work for others he continued his personal projects. Two of his projects took first price at the motion and speed sport car shows in Toronto. One day a women approached him about restoring an old Austin Healey which he refused saying that the car was junk and not worth the time or effort. But she persisted and eventually he took it on. He ended up doing such a superior job that other Healey owners started showing up and eventually he built his business not only specializing in restoring Healey's but literally resurrecting them from from total rusted out junk heaps. One issue he had with the first Healey was the frame as Healeys do was so rotted out it could not be salvaged so he proceeded to construct a replacement frame which he later began producing and selling all over the continent. The replacement frame was so well constructed that it became a major part of his business. He once told me not so long ago that over the past some 30 years he restored about 400 cars. He has also restored some classic motorcycles including an Ariel square four which I believe he eventually sold to some motorcycle museum somewhere. Here are a couple web sites worth checking out. http://www.jule-enterprises.com/ http://www.jule-enterprises.com/projects/100-4-v12-supercharged Rest in Peace Martin You will be missed.

Brand new stainless lines already installed I always use fresh brake fluid. I never keep an opened bottle around. Being a Mechanic for the past 42 years I have seen the downside of old brake fluid all to often. For the minor cost its just not worth saving. BTW I think I have come up with a temporary solution. I installed a manual engine fan over ride switch so I can run the fan a little sooner or longer as needed. The idea being that I can drop the engine temp to a point were clutch etc are workable for the times when I need it. Time will see how this works out. Anything to avoid downing the bike until the end of the riding season.

Well metal does expand and contract with temperature change and different metals and alloys are affected differently and so on that note I have wondered if and what could possibly expand from heat so as to consistently cause all three symptoms to occur and disappear at the same time. Sounds a little far fetched I know but when you have looked into every conceivable possibility your mind starts grasping at anything you can imagine, no matter how far fetched it may seem.

Three problems actually, because at the same time bike will not go into neutral whether bike is running or not until it cools down even if I try to rock the bike back and forth. And there lies my dilemma

This is the direction I am afraid I may have to go because as I stated I have already been through all the suggestions mentioned by everyone and some more than once. Whatever the issue is there has to be some sort of commonality between the clutch system and the gear position indicator switch which quits working the same time the clutch acts up and both heat related. If this ends up being the case it may end up waiting until Flyinfool starts playing with his snow machine. I have lived with it for three years now one more season is not a big deal, as it is more of an irritation than a problem.

Like I said I have checked the vent and even overhauled the master as well as taking the one of my other bike which is a twin to this one and trying it on the bike. I agree heat is definitely the issue but exactly in what manner is the elusive part, as it only occurs when the bike gets above normal operating temp. As soon as the bike returns to or below operating temp the issue instantly goes away. I don't even have to ride the bike for this to occur. I can just leave it idling on its kick stand and as soon as the temp reaches a certain level just about the time the fan kicks on the issue reappears. Put a portable fan in front of the rad and bring down the temp, the issue goes away and all this while the bike is not even being ridden. Bottom line for every possible cause I seem to find a contradiction. For example a clogged vent on something mounted on the handle bars should really not be affected by heat and should not come and go. It either is clogged or not clogged. If it is clogged then pressure would theoretically build up in the hydraulic system preventing the clutch from engaging causing it to slip or worse, but this is not he case. the clutch actually will not disengage once I get going I am using the throttle to work my way through the gears as the clutch is ineffective until such time as I can pull off some where and let the bike cool down. Also this is not a frequent issue as on a normal day I can ride all day without problems it only crops up on hot days in stop and go traffic or while sitting at the border under a scorching hot sun. For now I have learned to live with it but at the end of the day would realy like to resolve this issue. BTW even though I seem to be contradicting you, know that I really do appreciate your input. I have a fair share of my own ideas that I end up contradicting as well but some where in all this there has to be some sort of viable answer. The biggest mystery is that one symptom simply contradicts another symptom like saying a tire is flat and overinflated at the same time.

Definitely breathable as well as water proof is important otherwise we could just wrap everything in plastic.

X-Large Nelson Rigg UV-2000 half cover on my 1st gen MKII

Yup and I have even overhauled the master and replaced the slave. BTW I may be a stubborn old saddle tramp but I have already addressed all the aforementioned and common issues hence the mystery of it all. You would almost think the clutch push rod gets shorter as the engine warms up and returns to its normal lenght as the bike cools but there again why would this also affect the gear position switch. Over the past three years I have gone over everything a can think of more than once and have run out of ideas. Also I do not run any oil with friction modifiers usually use the yamaha oil since the dealer is close and gives me a good price on my oil. The only other oil I use is Lucas high performance motorcycle oil https://lucasoil.com/products/motorcycle-products/oils/lucas-high-performance-motorcycle-oils 10/40 or 20/50. I also do not use synthetic tried it once and did not like it as the engine ran quieter with non synthetic. I did have an old engine and transmission case which I have since discarded after robbing it of anything useful. I now which I still had it so I could dissect it and see what the common factor or part is that would cause both the clutch hydraulics and the gear position switch to be affected at the same time.

Clutch is definitly not slipping. My previuos clutch was that is why I replaced it some years back. Plus a slipping clutch would not affect the gear position indicator switch. As I already said, fluid has been replaced a few times and I have used various methods to bleed the system. I deal with all kinds of hydraulic systems in my work so I am no stranger hydraulic brakes and clutches. The gears are difficult to change even when you rock the bike back and forth with the engine shut off. But no issues when engine cools down. And as I stated you can sit there and watch the neutral light magicaly pop on once the bike cools down to a certian point.

So here is the mystery Let me start by saying the bike is an 89 venture royale clutch was replaced with a barnett coil spring conversion with carbon fibber disks. clutch slave has been replaced and the system has been bled more than I can remember and in various ways. 1st engine is cold clutch works perfectly neutral easy to find neutral light comes on and gear position switch works perfectly. Now engine eventually warms up to max operating temperature, Clutch lever feels like all fluid has been removed from the system, neutral is impossible to find and when in 2nd gear it is not displayed on the dash its just blank. In stop and go traffic it gets so bad that as you come to a stop the bike stalls because A the clutch will not disengage and B you cannot get it in neutral. When you hit the starter to restart the bike once traffic starts moving even though you have the clutch lever pulled in the bike actually rolls forward as the starter turns the engine over. So now you stop somewhere for a break you fuss until you finally find neutral but because the neutral light is not on the engine quits as soon as you put down the kick stand. While sitting there with the key on you watch as the the bike finally cools down to a point where the neutral light suddenly comes on and low and behold you can now start the bike and leave it running with the kickstand down. Now once the bike is fully cooled down its as if the fluid magically reappears in the clutch release system and all is normal again complete with a good firm clutch lever. :bang head:... Any ideas...

I just noticed there are two posts with reference to Bongbobny, Bongobobny update and Update on Bongobobny. Any following along should keep an eye on both posts. Unless Freebird there is a way to combine both posts into one. In the meantime still praying for Bob and Becky also sent a card Hope he gets to read it and then some.

I just noticed there are two posts with reference to Bongbobny, Bongobobny update and Update on Bongobobny. Any following along should keep an eye on both posts. Unless Freebird there is a way to combine both posts into one. In the meantime still praying for Bob and Becky also sent a card Hope he gets to read it and then some.

I actually wondered about that when I started looking into it more. Just checked $16.50 for a can in cowpucs case $3,309.00 for a 45 gallon drum so he can take that bath. https://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalog/cspages/acf50.php