saddlebum

Now mulligan you will have to ask the chef in the kitchen for but last I checked mulligan stew was not on the menu. As far as gimmies go my son in laws brother introduced Me to that one. When ever he got within ten feet of the hole on the green, he would say, thats a gimmie, insinuating of course that he's going to get that Putt in the hole anyway. I soon learned how that worked. But when I put the ball on the tee and before driving it, picked it up back off the tee declaring thats a gimmie. He didn't quite see it the same way as when he used it. Like as if that shot wasn,t guaranteed to be a hole-in-one the nerve of him.

I would love to get 87 octane that is ethanol free. Be cheaper than paying for 91 octane which is definitly not needed in our 1st and 2nd gens. I only put the 91 octane in the bike when storing it because it is the only one here that is ethanol free. but for the riding season I only run the 87 octane because unless you need Higher octane due to high compression and the resulting ignition ping why throw away your money. But since Ethanol absorbs water I prefer to avoid having it in my bike when its being stored over the winter.

When it's time to set your floats the yamaha method is a real pain. But, you can dry set them before you put the bowels back on, by the methods/tips here https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?66468-Float-levels or as I prefer you can wet set them on the bench. I devised this setup https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?86821-home-made-set-up-for-wet-setting-floats-on-the-bench to wet set them and it worked a treat. A bicycle pump works great to pressurize the cylinder. Make sure sure the pressure you add to the cylinder equals your fuel pumps delivery pressure. If you do use the shop compressor I recommend you shut it off 1st and drain the tank down to about 10 or 20 psi so you have better control of the air going into the rigged up fuel cell. When it comes time to reassemble the four carbs together I found a cut piece of scrap polished granite makes a great flat base to set the carbs on when you are tightening the brackets which hold the carbs together so they will sit nice and flat when you put them back on the bike. A lot of times you can get a srap piece of cut out material from the granite counter top installers for nothing.

Stuck open needle seats can cause this but if the floats are stuck down and needle seats open then you should see fuel on the ground from the float bowl overflow/vent hoses. As stated earlier pull the plugs and crank the engne to eliminate fuel from the cylinders. You can try filling the float bowels with a concentrated mixture of seafoam and gas or good carb cleaner spray and then let it sit overnight then tap the carbs gently to attempt to dislodge the stick floats. Crank the engine again to remove any fuel leaked into the engine and it may be a good idea to replace your engine oil as well in case enough fuel leaked in and past the rings to dilute the engine oil. When cranking the engine over W/O the plugs in disable the ignition or ground the plug wires to the block. After that install your plugs and see if it will fire up. Again while idling if it fires up watch for fuel dripping on the ground in the kick stand area. This will indicate floats still not functioning properly and you will likely have to remove the carbs for some O/H work. BTW there is one drain tube for each carb and the run down past the pivot point of the double kick stand.

Do the simple checks first; Take a second lok at your wiring to be sure that you did not leave something disconnected. If it has the old glass fuses check them over including the fuse holders on the fuse block These get weak and corroded with age and since you had to move it to swap out the battery something may have gotten disturbed. Or something was already close to failure and moving it just finished it off. If you find this is the issue and the fuse block is pooched don't just replace it. But upgrade to one of the mini blade ATM fuse blocks. Very common to find in the electrical section of Marine equipment stores but also available from car parts stores and amazon. Marine stores tend to have a better selection so you can customize your hook up with additional fuses for accessories you may want to add. There is also a master fuse tucked in down along the left side of the battery with it's own wire connection to the battery. It tends to drop out of sight when replacing the battery and can be easily overlooked. also check and make sure it did not blow during your battery exhange. Check all the eyelets, they can develop corrosion in the insulation close to the eyelet and once disturbed can break clean. A simple test is just to pull the cables, the insulation will stretch if the wire, usually close to the terminal, is broken. Don't be afraid to give it a good pull, if the wire is sound you will not be able to hurt it. Try removing the plugs. crank the engine over without the plugs, Make sure you ground all the spark plug cable ends to prevent electrical damage to the coils. Then put in a fresh set of plugs. Its possible because you only ran it into the garage then tried to start it right after that she got flooded. If all this checks out then you will need to look deeper. Sticky float needles can cause flooding, Imn most cases if this happens you will smell raw gas.

Do the simple checks first; Take a second lok at your wiring to be sure that you did not leave something disconnected. If it has the old glass fuses check them over including the fuse holders on the fuse block These get weak and corroded with age and since you had to move it to swap out the battery something may have gotten disturbed. Or something was already close to failure and moving it just finished it off. There is also a master fuse tucked in down along the left side of the battery with it's own wire connection to the battery. It tends to drop out of sight when replacing the battery and can be easily overlooked. Also check and make sure it did not blow during your battery exchange. Check all the eyelets, they can develop corrosion in the insulation close to the eyelet and once disturbed can break clean. A simple test is just to pull the cables, the insulation will stretch if the wire, usually close to the terminal, is broken. Don't be afraid to give it a good pull, if the wire is sound you will not be able to hurt it. Try removing the plugs. crank the engine over without the plugs to dry out the cylinders and ciculate the engine oil, Make sure you ground all the spark plug cable ends to prevent electrical damage to the coils. Then put in a fresh set of plugs. Its possible because you only ran it into the garage then tried to start it right after that she got flooded. If all this checks out then you will need to look deeper. Sticky float needles can cause flooding, In most cases if this happens you will smell raw gas.

Three more interesting articles : Also you will note that any reviews concerning Corrosion free a good unless it has been done by Canadian tire so If you do opt for corrosion free stay away from Canadian Tire and check Corrsion free's website for an Independent / more trust worthy applicator. You would actually be better off buying the stuff direct from corrsion free and applying it yourself rather than allowing Canadian tire to do the job. That's not to say there may be the odd store that does a good job but for the most part you are better to avoid Canadian tire. Also I could be mistaken but I do not believe Corrosion free is available in the US. https://cansumer.ca/best-rust-proofing/ https://www.howtosavemoney.ca/which-rust-proofing-service-is-b See also this interesting video.

Went to the shell here in Burlington Ontario and because the website I posted at the begining stated that this particular shell's 91 octane was ethanol free. Drove up to the pump and sure enough. According to the label on the pumps, Regular had 10% ethanol the mid grade had 5% and 91 Octane was ethanol free. Now on the not so good note it shared one hose for all three so if your filling a small Jerry can best to fill or run some gas into your truck/car tank first than move nozzle to the jerry can and fill it (For Petes sake Let go of the trigger before moving the nozzle from one to other).

I would disagree. Applied to a perfectly dry vehicle yes it is effective but unlike Fliid Film, ACF50 or Corrosion Free which all drive moisture out, Woolwax can actually trap moisture against the metal.

Those headlights are coming out as stock equipment on Mack and International trucks as well as some of the other commercial trucks, so once a bike is converted there should be no issue finding a replacement should the occasion ever arise. The rectangular versions as well are becoming quite common which should work as a a direct replacement for the sealed beams on the MkI 1st Gens.

The Canadian Military did a study on the various products for rust control. One thing that surprised me is that the ACF50 I posted about in https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?141934-ACF-50 for protecting and cleaning electrical items also ranked up there with the top listed items for corrosion control. Fluid film was not part of the study but it would have been nice to see where it ranked. It is interesting that Krown and Rust Check two of the more familiar products did not rank as well as one might have expected. Also worth noting is that corrsion free has a much better warranty based on application every 18 months versus every 12 months. One thing I would like to point out is that in Canada even though Corrosion Free shown on the chart as Corr 3000 is at the top of the list the most common place to have it applied is Canadian tire not really a good choice. However it is not exclusive to Canadian tire and If you check out https://corrosionfree.com/ you will find a list of other applicators who are more reliable in performing a proper application. You can also buy Corrosion Free on line and apply it yourself if you wish. they provide an assortment of self applying kits from simple spray bombs to professional level equipment. I have not tried fluid film as a rust protection per say but I have found it extremely good at freeing up corroded moving parts. It may not react as quickly as some penetrating oils for freeing up nuts and bolts but leave it sit for a bit and it works wonders. I actually convinced our parts dept to stock it for the shop as it works amazingly well to free up hard to release fifth wheels and keep them working free better than anything else I have tried over the years. Along with a good penetrating oil ACF50, FLUID FILM and SEAFOAM are always kept in good supply on my shelf in my garage at home. Check out the chart showing the level of protection as determined by the military study. I also attached the complete study if anyone is interested in a long read. rust protection study results.pdf p526285.pdf

pretty sure if you read both the motorcycle manual or the instruction sheet for the cover carefully that no where does it state that you should snap off your CB antenna. But since you did there are many ways of replacing it. Most like the fire stick, I use a wilson 2000 but have also used other types. First you will need to replace the antenna base with one of the ones used to accept a 3/8 NF thread bolt. Most of the more common antenna,s have 3/8 NF thread on the bottom. This leaves you open to a variety of choices for the antenna including 102 inch whip if you feel crazy enough to go for it. After you cut your coax off right at the aantenna base which you will then remove and chuck. There are basically two types. One which requires you to instal a PL-259 connector on the end of the cable where you just cut it. And then connect it to the cb antenna mount. The other simply consists of putting a 5/8 eyelet on the outer braid and a 3/8 eyelet on the center wire and connecting directly to the antenna mount. Now this are two slightly different mount styles but both accept antennas 3/8 NF THD. I prefer option 2. It my not look as classy as option 1 but it is simpler , stronger and more compact. Type1 https://www.amazon.com/RoadPro-Chrome-Amateur-Radio-Antennas/dp/B001JT7AJA?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1 Type 2 https://www.wearecb.com/heavy-duty-stud-mount-for-ring-terminal-bulk.html

If its not up to date or in need of changes they give you the ability to update or correct any info regarding the list.

Exactly Just happened to stumble on this link pretty much along the lines of what I have been doing except I never bother to pull the plugs or mist the intake. https://seafoamsales.com/knowledge-base/how-to-use-sea-foam-for-engine-storage-and-stabilizing-fuel/

Found this site that lists gas stations that supply ethonal free gas. At the bottom is a list of Abbreviations for both states and provinces. Click on your state or province for a list of stations that sell ethanol free gas. https://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp Also check out http://www.fuel-testers.com/state_guide_ethanol_laws.html

I have never drained mine. I dump a whole can of seafoam into the tank, drive to the gas station, than fill it to the the top with fuel and ride it home so it goes through the carbs. Plug in the battery saver, throw the old all weather full cover on her and tuck her in for the winter hibernation. Have been doing this for 14 years now and the old girl fires right up at a touch, in the spring with no issue. This winter I hope to bring her inside for some overdue TLC though.

Did it not occur to you uhfradarwill that cowpuc was simply sending out a severe Flyinfool alert.:snow::snow::snow: I for one am glad he did. Which means I am now aware, that I have to stock pile my inventory of cold air for Fools snow machine and export early or flyinfool will start looking elsewhere for another supplier.

I have one for each of you. Jim gave them to me when I was last in Arcade.

that's actually the best way to find something. Once you buy a new one you'll find the old one:bang head:

You Don't ...You call a mobile tire service

His name is Shugemery (Shug for short) and he is the Puc of backpacking. https://www.youtube.com/user/shugemery

Ahh this particular day it was not out of necessity. It was just a for the pure love of riding on a beautiful winters day. The snow storm ride was because I knew I could get through with the faithful ol enduro and if need be leave the road to get around traffic, since I was use to doing winter enduro's. Were as the cage could get blocked behind other vehicles who have no idea how to drive in the snow.

Two biggest beginner mistakes is A) moving along the seam too fast and B) keeping the arc too long (stick welding) or holding the nozzle too far away from the weld (mig welding) if your wire keeps sticking or grounding out your feed is two fast or your currant to low. If your wire seems to be disapearing into the nozzle and just burning back your feed is too slow or your currant set too high. if your burning through your currant is too high. You want to stay with the puddle and just sort of draw it along at a nice pace. LISTEN if it sounds like a nice soft hiss or in the case of an arc welder like bacon softly sissling your pretty much right on the money. if it sounds like your sending a telegraph you need to make some adjustments. This are the simple tips the rest you will pick up on as you progress.

I used to ride all year round, not so much these days mainly because of the new ice-melting crap they use on the roads now because it eats wiring and connectors like crazy. But a beautiful winter day ride can be very invigorating.I wear full face and a snowmobile suit. I even road my 1975 Canam 250 TNT 15 miles through one of the worst snow storms this area has seen back in the mid seventy's and was the only one to make it into work. The deep snow was no challenge to the bike, but coming home on fresh plowed hard packed snow was. .

And a gaurd for the front of your neck seems I often forget and end up coming home from work with a nice red triangular sunburn/welding burn covering my Adams apple.