saddlebum

Ist time I dropped a bike was my 1975 250 canam TNT, It was being stubborn and would not start so I ran down the side of the road with the bike beside me then jumped on it side saddle to bump start it, only to flop over and into the ditch. The second time was when I came home on my 400 Kawasaki first I noticed the good looking girl next door watching me, second noticed the car ramps I had left in the driveway. So like any young hot blooded youth would do I decided a little showing of was definitely called for. Gave it some throttle with the intent of doing a little jump off the car ramp. Bike went further than I expected and I crashed into the closed garage door. All I can say is I definitly got her attention who could not stop apologizing for her inability to stop laughing. Body and bike where Ok. EGO badly bruised.

Uhhh also needs to hold air maybe

I get your point but I would like to see or hear the guy that isn't seeing or hearing me just in case.

I am not saying that MiCarl is wrong and I agree that most likely the Reg/rec would probably be at fault. I am Just saying that if there is resistance due to a poor connection or a bad spot in the wire somewhere, The voltage signal which the reg/rec receives to monitor battery condition would mislead the regulator into overcharging the battery and that I suggest a simple check of the possibility of this condition would be prudent before replacing an expensive part. My theory is if your going to be wrong pick the cheapest thing to be wrong about first. In 50 years as a Mechanic I have seen numerous mechanics constantly jump to conclusions, replace alternators with built in regulators or external regulators (even engine control modules which in a big rig is easily $6,000.00) only to end up with the same issue. Then go back and do a proper diag to find the problem was a 10 cent terminal gone bad or a section of wiring gone green. All I am saying is take the extra 20 minutes or so to make sure. Chances are it will be the reg/rec but suppose you did find a wiring fault you just saved yourself a pretty penny.

I disagree Don Ball joints are part of the required safety inspection in Ontario, therefore it is reasonable to expect the truck was properly safety-ed. The dealership is actually quite fortunate that Carl had it replaced. Had Carl Taken the truck to the MTO in the condition he received it, the dealership would have faced a fine as well as put through an Audit in which they will go back at least three years to look for more discrepancies. Each discrepancy found would of resulted in additional fines and if serious enough possible loss of their inspection license. Oooh your really rubbing salt into this one. Even whispering the word Ford around @Marcarl could get you an ear full, that would make his speechifying seem like a two word comment.

Interesting post. However even though I know some ride with earplugs I always felt that doing so was somewhat unsafe since it would impair your hearing while riding. As a matter of fact in Ontario it is illegal to wear double head phones or ear buds while driving as it is considered a safety issue. So I would be inclined to think the same would apply to ear plugs.

I love that song myself. I like even better this story about the origin of the American Anthem. It makes you think of two things 1) Why allowing the flag to touch the ground would be such a disgrace. 2) I wonder how many of today's American kids are taught the story behind their National anthem so they can really appreciate it and what the flag symbolizes, or are they just made to blindly memorize the song without any real understanding.

The sad part is the average person does not go back over a vehicle the way Carl did and I have seen ball joints let go. So how does this fare for your average customer with absolutely no mechanical knowledge, who assumes he is buying a fit vehicle.

It was quite a few years ago that Don asked for a small fee to become a supporting member to VR which pretty much all of us did not mind paying in order to keep a clean site and for Don's time and effort to maintain the site and when I bumped into Sonny at a Timmies Outside Hamilton. Like I said earlier he was so bitter and handed me such a rant that I had to leave the store. I cannot believe that after all this time he is still holding on to that grudge. By now a true adult would see that the major majority do not and did not have an issue with the $12.00/yr dues and would move forward instead of continuing with this petty attitude.

Either way you look at it both systems have three clear similarity's 1) The wealthy run the country 2) The middle class financially supports the country 3) The lazy milk the country

Looks to me Puc like you the one thats gonna be doin the dishes. Does she make you wear a frilly apron when your doing them.:canada:

Not quite true. If there is a bad sense wire connection between the battery and the regulator, the regulator may sense a low voltage condition when there is none and in turn cause the battery to be overcharged. Check your wire connections before condemning the regulator/rectifier. If the wiring all checks out then I would agree that the reg/rec is at fault.

I am inclined to agree with Marcarl in that it sounds like gear rattle. One common cause is engine idle speed too low should be between 950 and 1050.

Not sure why you would want to bother, since as long as your voltmeter stays above 12.5 with everything on the bike turned on your charging system and battery are keeping up. If not then you either have a weak charging system and/or battery or your just running too many accessories, but since you do. There are various types of ammeters, the simplest set up is a direct ammeter. It will indicate "0" in the middle of the scale and the numbers increase in either direction. one direction indicating amount of acc. draw or discharge the other direction indicating amount of battery draw or charging. They come in various load sizes for example 50-0-50 or 100-0-100. Disconnect all wires from your positive post. now connect only the heavy wire from your starter solenoid and a wire from one post of the ammeter to the positive post (10 ga recommended). Now all the remaining wires will connect to the other post of the ammeter. The needle will read to one side or the the other side of zero depending on currant flow. If the battery is charging the needle will go in one direction indicating the amps drawn by the battery while recharging. The lower the state of the battery the more it will draw and the higher the reading. as it reaches full charge the ammeter will move closer to zero. How high the ammeter reads is also affected by the number of acc. you turn on but as long as the needle stays to the one side of the zero your battery is charging and keeping up with the load demand. If the needle goes to the other side of the zero your acc. are drawing more than your battery can manage and you are now reading the amount the battery is discharging. If you turn acc. on with the bike not running you will a larger discharge than if the bike is running. Fire the bike up and the indicated amount of amps discharging will go down the needle moving closer to zero. ideally you want the needle to move to the opposite side of zero once the bike is running indicating the battery and charging system is keeping up with demand. If not you either have too many acc. drawing power or the battery and charging system is weak and cannot keep up with the demand. In this setup starter draw does not come into play since it will draw more than the ammeter is designed for and this is why the solenoid heavy wire is connected directly to the battery. You could get a higher reading ammeter but then you would give up a level of sensitivity. Ideally you want an ammeter with a scale high enough to handle most of the currant used by the bike including max battery draw while charging but not including the starter draw and low enough to be as sensitive as possible to minor fluctuations. Now from the above basic set up you can get more sophisticated ones that use induction pickups and even very accurate digital ones that will read put both volts and amps. Picture is of basic gauge the amazon link is an example of a digital one. https://www.amazon.ca/Battery-Monitor-Voltmeter-Ammeter-Transformer/dp/B07D35MFBQ/ref=asc_df_B07D35MFBQ/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292965357502&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2946946082963120748&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000858&hvtargid=pla-552976227978&psc=1

Finally ---- an answer to why we must wear masks.

:witch_brew:

According to these article,s it is apparently true though I actually thought we cut all ties. https://www.history.com/news/canada-independence-from-britain-france-war-of-1812 https://www.international.gc.ca/world-monde/international_relations-relations_internationales/multilateral-multilateraux/commonwealth.aspx?lang=eng

and the harder you shake to get more pennies out at one time the higher the amperage and the faster the piggy bank empties. Sooo Patch, how much amperage did it take to empty your little brother's piggy bank eh? I figure there had to be a reason you chose that analogy seeing as one tends to choose what comparison one understands best

I found the elite 2 i had on my bike was bad for tracking road snakes but I have not had the issue with the E3's. On the other hand the E4's have on a rare occasion grabbed a road snake but the asphalt was extremely hot on those few odd occasions.

Well @cowpuc I am inclined to believe that due to covid and resulting lack of meet and eats and rallies the cat just decided that going from a practice audience to being the main audience for Marcarl's speechifying was just more than it could handle and is currently hiding under some neighbors porch. BTW just for the record I have no issue with the dues. What we get out of the site is worth it in my book and if it helps to safeguard our web site from annoying pests, even better. Now back to the vote ----I vote NAY----as it would be unfair to the CAT

Boy have you got that right and not just the strength that goes bye bye. About two weeks ago I did a four day canoe trip. Portaging with a 50lb pack was not bad, once you got your legs to go straight from being cramped up in a canoe for 2-3 hours. Got to the point were I thought maybe I could convince my son to portage the canoe with me in it so I could avoid the painful agony of slowly unfolding my legs as I got out.

Annnnnnd if you come to the events You can pull up a chair (and trust me you will need a chair) to listen to @Marcarl do his speechifying.

When working with apprentices I often use plumbing instead getting too high tech when trying to get them to understand circuits. Works extremely well.

I bumped into Sunman on the road some years ago about the time Don started asking for membership fees. It was at a Tim Horton's. I saw this guy riding a Venture and struck up a conversation with him were at some point I asked him if he was aware of venturerider.org. Boy you would think I kicked a hornets nest. He told me he had, was a member and who he was on the site but quit and proceeded to give me the whole rant about why and his beef about the $12 membership fee. The same rant Puc just posted in post #8 . Needles to say I could not get out of there and back on the road fast enough. I am surprised after all this time that this pot is still boiling.

As you well know the membership has come to be about more than just the bikes. Its about the people and friendships formed through the bikes and there are many here who can no longer ride but stayed on because they have become friends and family (and maybe a little addicted to being associated with a bunch of nuts). A lot of those members still even attend some of the rallies or M&E's even thought it may mean caging it to get there. Nice to see you you back again.