saddlebum

UPDATE #3: They have taken my sister in-law off the ventilator yesterday and but her on an oxygen nose tube with 6% oxygen, Today they reduce her oxygen down to 3% and she is out of the icu into a telemetry unit. She is not communicating yet but is responding to requests to perform physical. movements. My brother in-law is doing well with a few lingering after effects. Talking with him on the phone he sounded like his old self.

I just have a length of exh hose that I stick out through a little trap door fitted into my garage door. I used to just lift the door a bit and slide the hose out under but often depending on wind direction it would just blow back into my garage.

That is the best way. Also even though they run quite well on three cylinders you will feel it bog a bit on a hill pull or a sudden full roll on of the throttle like in passing.

Eeeeeww with them plugged up draining water will suck the P-traps dry and then there is no stopping those aromatic sewer gasses from entering you house.

Assuming your ignition system is in good shape, your air filter in good condition and your engine compression is good, your likely looking at carb issues. If you never need to use the choke even on cooler days to start your bike, it is most likely running rich, you can also check the color of your plugs. remove your diaphragms and check the needles and seats as well as for proper needle settings. Enrichment valves stuck open is a common problem for this, You may also want to check your choke cable adjustment, or the float level is too high. Before pulling your carb apart to OH it and if the choke cable adjustment appears to be OK, I would check those enrichment valves they can be removed and freed up without pulling your carbs apart. Check and set your float levels, 0n the carbs (easier done with the carbs off the bike and sitting on a flat level surface). There are different ways of doing this much easier than indicated in the manual and you will find various favorite techniques in the tech section that work very well.

Personally I prefer the compression dry sacks, I use when backpacking. The one I keep my sleeping gear in, also doubles as an air mattress in-flatter. It has a valve on it which connects to my air mattress so I can inflate it by squeezing trapped air from it into my air mattress. Saves my lungs and the air is dry instead of moist.

Never had much use for noisy snowmobiles, preferring the quiet and serenity of riding my horse through the woods instead.

You don't know what you missed. Those were the days when winter as kid was fun. We built forts caves tunnels you name it. Didn't have to drive for miles to get out for a bit of snowshoeing or cross country skiing. We could build ice rinks that lasted from through to almost April. Yup you don't what you missed!

Yes but the Puc still has room for two passengers.

Also check the threads for damage while you have it out being as the caliper is aluminum and the bleeder screw steal it is not uncommon for thread tear or balling to occur if the screw was difficult to back out and so the screw would not go back in properly.

I camp mostly when I travel so I pack like I would when I go on a backpacking trip in the wilderness, other than that I usually eat at restaurants, so I cut down on the food I carry and just keep a few non perishables or freeze dried meals in case I cannot find some place to eat. I carry an aeropress coffee maker. see https://aeropress.com/ some coffee makings and water. Often I include a backpackers water filtering system my top choice is platypus see https://www.platy.com/ca in case I either need to get water from a stream, lake or camp ground. often camp grounds have water sources that state not for drinking but the platypus will make that water safe to drink, or just don't trust the quality of the water from some wells. It comes in various capacities and you can get adapters to fill most any hydration pack or bottles directly. I avoid cotton preferring clothes made of fast drying material such as polyester or nylon trust me you will appreciate it. BTW nylon is pretty tough in case of a fall. Also something for warmth, merino wool is best choice it drys relatively well when wet and better yet it still insulates even when wet unlike down which as nice as it is loose all insulating value if it gets wet. And of course good rain gear A good all round tool including wire tape and connectors. though I am not usually a fan of insulated butt connectors they are a great quick way of getting you out of trouble. try to keep tool kit small but efficient and a small but effective compressor or tire pump. You may also want to include a set of tire irons. I also always carry a plug kit, though it is not generally approved to plug a motor cycle tire it can get you to somewhere where a proper repair can be made. My personal favorite, is tech permacure tire plugs. I have used these for 40 years on everything from small trailers to transport trucks without any follow up repair, even put as many as three in one hole and never had a failure for the tires life span. The guy that supplied me would demonstrate by jamming one in the sidewall of his front tire. By the time he wore out that tire he had 250 of them in the tire. Definitely not an approved demonstration technique but very effective just the same. Later you can The kit I carry is for personal use is this https://products.techtirerepairs.com/tire-repair-materials/tire-repair-kits/tech-outdoors/

Definitely get RID of the DEXCOOL and flush well with water. like I said it tends to attack certain head gaskets and that is something you do not want to get into. It was designed for GM's after a certain year and their head gaskets are designed to be compatible. I like the prestone antifreeze myself. The old green stuff is fine too but make sure it is aluminum friendly and silicate free. I agree with the 50/50 premix but you can save a little if you buy the concentrate and use it with ether distilled or de-ionized water. Tap water or well water has too many minerals in it and like your kettle at home will build up sediment in your cooling system, a problem that was all too common in the early years hence having to boil out and/or flush the cooling system with acid or vinegar back then.

I agree and depending on the condition of the bike you may even be able to trickle a very tiny bit of gas into each intake tube to see if it will fire. Just don't keep trickling gas in while cranking it or while it is running. Buddy of mine did that and roasted his beer belly. Never quite understood why some people would want to convert to single card seems like a down grade to me and if its just to avoid syncing carbs it makes no sense since carb syncing is so easy and done in about 20 minutes give or take. The other issue I see is with only one carb and venturi not much bigger than a single oem carb I would imagine the bike would starve for air. As well if the carb fails your stuck. With the 4 carb set up if one fails you can still boot along on three carbs.

these may help 1983-1985 Yamaha Venture Service Manual.pdf https://www.venturerider.org/manuals/1983-1985 Yamaha Venture Service Manual.pdf

As said it needs to be aluminum compatible and silicate free. What ever you do, DO NOT use GM's DEXCOOL, it has been known to attack head gaskets on some engines

Sure glad You got through all this OK. I think I would have taken the same approach as you. No way after removing Half the staples with that much pain would they get me back for a rematch on the remainder. Best get them out while you got me there. At least that would be my thoughts on it. Better yet hope I never have to prove it. Thumbs up to you for earning that cookie (should have been two cookies though) since you did two sessions in one. Having said all that I hope your full recovery time is short and complete so life for you can get back to normal.

The so so called vents on the top side are also overflow tubes. There are four of them, to which hoses are connected and those four hoses run back to a frame cross bar & down exiting just below the pivot of the double kick stand. This is so if the float sticks open, the overflow of gas pours out on the ground, instead of all over the engine and exhaust pipes. The capped tubes are for connecting a sync tool so you can sync the carbs Usually three are capped and the one on the left rear (which is cyl #1) has a vacuum tube connected which leads to a vacuum sensor for ignition control purposes. hope this helps.

UPDATE #2: brother in-law seems to have pulled through. After a day without oxygen he has been allowed to go home but they are still monitoring his vitals, just to be safe. On the other hand, my sister in-law sadly is still sedated and still on the ventilator. On a good note however, she is showing small degrees of improvement so please keep the prayers and well wishes coming. Thanks all.

Then as long as the roads are dry and clean go! Thats what snowmobile suits are for

According to the parts book 83 XVZ12TDK did come with it on some models. Comparing it to other years this assembly was used on both MKI & MKII from 83 to 92 so finding a good used one should be no issue. Same goes for the control unit. although you may find some control units will need the connector solder joints re-soldered, which is easily done. These joints tend to crack IMHO because the harness puts a strain on the connector each time you open the cover to access the coolant bottle. I added a restraint to the harness to stop this. you may have to either replace or upgrade your existing harness or make up an independent harness to tie the control unit in with the air system which should not be too difficult if you have any electrical savvy and can read schematics. All said and done with the 83 to 92 time span you should have no issue finding good used parts for what you need. https://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/oemparts/a/yam/5004246cf8700209bc787e05/air-compressor https://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/oemparts/a/yam/50042472f8700209bc787e1e/control-unit

I had replaced my lines with stainless as well at the time I de-linked my brakes. I did not de-link my brakes to increase front braking, because I could raise my rear wheel off the ground as it was and to me you do not need any more brake than that. My reason was because on a few occasions, on slippery road surfaces, I came close to having the front wheel slide out from under me because it would lock up on me, even even though I only used the rear brakes, no matter how gently I applied them. On one occasion I was coming down a steep hill with sand covered asphalt at the intersection, and after three attempts to get stopped with no luck I knew I was going to end up either in or through the intersection, so an a whim and prayer I rolled hard on the throttle and shot the intersection, (with my eyes closed and fingers and toes crossed). I now have better control over my bikes braking and in those situations were I only want rear brake I can have only rear brake. Skydoc does over a de-link kit with stainless lines or you can take your old lines into a shop that is DOT certified to make brake lines and and have have them copy the lines in stainless. Make sure they are certified for this purpose do not use just any hose making shop.

My bike always fires up in the spring on the first crank but if you don't keep it running it is almost impossible to fire up on the second go around. Once you do keep it running it runs like crap for the first couple miles. I keep it down a gear or two and RPM's up. once it smooths out it runs like a dream and fires instantly for the rest of the season. Its like a spring ritual. Any type of stabalizer seems to make no difference.

Is that not a tad like the suicide bomber instructor .....Who insists the students pay close attention and better get it the 1st time, because he is only going to demonstrate once.

I would start by checking and cleaning all the connectors and wiring going to the stater, regulator and ignition module. I almost replaced my module because of no spark but when I pulled it apart I found all the terminals had turned green. I decided to clean all the connectors and terminals and the bike ran like a dream. That was 4 years or so ago and the bike has ran great ever since. If that does not solve your issue then you will have to do a more in depth diagnoses.

Sometimes if you have the bearing numbers or the seal dimensions you can match up the seal or you can use the shaft and bore dimensions to look up a seal. https://www.skf.com/binaries/pub12/Images/0901d196807662c1-810-701_CRSeals_Handbook_Jan_2019_tcm_12-318140.pdf https://www.skfextranet.com/crsealsfinder/ https://www.timken.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/Timken-Small-Bore-Metric-Seals-Catalog_10951.pdf https://www.timken.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/National-Indust-Seals-Catalog_7707.pdf another option is to look up the seal number in the parts book https://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/oemparts/a/yam/5004246bf8700209bc787e03/drive-shaft and then do a google interchange search EG: 93102-70167-00 oil seal interchange