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Everything posted by saddlebum
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Have done that myself as well and it does work ........as long as you get back to it before the master is completely empty . But of course we won't discuss how I know this..
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Sorry you are going through it too Brad. I will keep you in my prayers as well.
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I just ran a nut the right size to fit the the hex hole in the cap nut ran it on to a bolt tight up against the head of the bolt. then cut the protruding end of the bolt off leaving a 1/16th" of the bolt sticking out past the nut. Finally I pounded that protruding bit flat with a hammer (a ball peen hammer works best if you have one) so the nut could not back off, then simple used it with a socket wrench to remove the cap nut. Cost $0 since they came from my junk box of nuts and bolts.
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Update #4, So my wife's sister was moved to a care home a couple weeks ago and last week they took her off her feeding tube and so she is once again able to eat. Her voice has not fully returned (though I have to say the way her voice sounds right now has a real soft sexy sound to it). However she seems to be recovering reasonably well and I am sure she will eventually get back that voice that has for so many years struck terror in to many an unprepared poor soul. Her positive signs of recovery are not just good for her but for my wife as well since they are so close and with their Mom and Dad having past on, She is my wife's only remaining direct family member. Thanks all for your continued Prayers and well wishes and hope you all stay safe and never have to go through this.
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1st you will not feel the same resistance with a clutch, as you do with brakes. So do not let that difference deceive you. The best way is with the bike in gear note at which point the clutch engages and disengages while operating the clutch lever. Also if the slave is leaking past the seals there will be no outward signs as the fluid would be leaking into the crankcase. The only indicator would be loss of fluid so if there are no outward signs then the a leaking slave is your most likely culprit. Very easy to remove but you got to hold your tongue the right way to get it back in. Here are the steps I recommend to bleed a clutch, If all I have to work with is basic hand tools. Crack the line loose at the master. Before you bottom out snug the line up as you continue to squeeze the handle. Release the handle and continue until you see signs of fluid. ( Sometimes if the master was completely dry such as a new one or after rebuilding, you may have to prime it. You can do this by removing the line completely. cover the hole lightly with you finger and squeeze the handle allowing air and/or brake fluid to escape from under you noting finger. Before releasing the handle clamp your finger tight and slowly release the handle. repeat until most fluid comes out. At this stage it does not need to be completely air free., your just priming the master ). Once you have done this reconnect the line to the master and perform the procedure at the beginning of this step. Connect a clear line to the bleeder screw, after braking it loose and making sure it moves freely, and run it to the bottom of a catch container with a bit of fluid in it. This helps prevent sucking air back into the system and makes it easy to observe for air in the fluid. Crack the bleeder open at the slave and slowly squeeze the handle. when it bottoms out snug up the bleeder and release the handle. Continue until fluid starts to come out of the bleeder ( it does not need to be air free at this point ). As you begin to squeeze the handle crack the bleeder open and then quickly close just before the handle bottoms out while fluid is still coming out (Do not pump the handle). Continue until the exiting fluid is air free. Next squeeze the handle but this time leave the bleeder closed until the handle comes to a stop. Pause and hold for a few seconds, (this allows air to come to the top near the bleeder screw) then quickly open the bleeder and then quickly close it again while a bit of fluid is still coming out just before the handle bottoms out. Again continue until the exiting fluid is air free. Finally return to the master. Squeeze the handle until it bottoms out. Pause and hold for a several seconds ( again this allows for any air in the line to rise to the top of the line at the fitting), then quickly loosen bolt just enough to allow some fluid to escape but then quickly snug up the bolt before the handle bottoms out and while some fluid is still escaping. Repeat until no air spits out. When done fully tighten the bleeder and line retaining bolt. PRECAUTIONS: A)-During the process keep an eye on the fluid in the master and keep it topped up. I recommend not letting it go any lower than 1/3 full because if the master goes dry your back to square one. B)- Cover everything well with rags to protect bike from brake fluid and when bleeding the master at the line use a rag to keep fluid from spraying every where allowing just enough of an opening to allow you to observe the fluid for air. With experience you don't need to look you can hear the difference between when the escaping fluid is air free or if there is air in it. C)- NOTE: during the process you will not note a mention snug the bleeder and banjo bolt. this is because during the process it is not necessary to fully reef them tight. Just be sure to properly tighten them when you are completely done. Finally there are other methods that work well such as using a vacuum tool at the bleeder or pressure bleeding, some even recommend speed bleeders, all of which make the job easier. But as I stated at the beginning, if you are only working with basic tools, these are the steps I recommend I have used this method on the side of the road and never ever had to re-bleed the system afterwards. Hope this all helps Good luck.
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Combination fork dampner / top cap tool
saddlebum replied to SAP71's topic in Poor Man Tips and Fixes
I just ran a nut the right size to fit the the hex hole in the cap nut ran it on to a bolt tight up against the head of the bolt. then cut the protruding end of the bolt off leaving a 1/16th" of the bolt sticking out past the nut. Finally I pounded that protruding bit flat with a hammer (a ball peen hammer works best if you have one) so the nut could not back off, then simple used it with a socket wrench to remove the cap nut. -
Long time Biker, new member here!
saddlebum replied to loubear's topic in Welcome To Our New Members
You came to the right place both for knowledge and great camaraderie. Though I am more familiar with the 1st gens you will find people here that can fill your head with more ideas than it can hold. Also if your half loco you will fit right in. It's a very helpful and family friendly membership so you should consider a full membership and get out to the meet and greets and rallies and get to know us Depending on the covid situation of course). -
In many cases this is very true yet I have had to replace my 1/2" and smaller Snapon wrenches many times because the open ends keep spreading or the box ends keep splitting open something that never happens with my Husky, Gray or higher end Mastercraft wrenches. One of my favorite brands of wrenches is Gedore. they are thin compared to most wrenches even Snapon yet extremely strong, They are just hard to find. I also refuse to buy any more sockets from Snapon because they always split on me even when I am only using a it with hand tools. Here again I prefer Husky, Gray or higher end Mastercraft tools. Snapon are great looking tools and because they are thinner than other makes may serve the car industry very well but when it comes to Heavy duty work such as the trucking and heavy equipment industry I have found they just don't cut it.
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Trust me its nothing for a professional Mechanic's to sink over $100.00 into. A Snapon double tool box and even the Matco filled with high end tools probably well exceeds that $100.00. So those dollar figures sound like a good deal to me but it all depends on how bad you need them. If I was an apprentice again starting out I would jump at those deals. And even though Harbor Freight tool boxes are more than adequate you cannot compare them to Snapon or Matco
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Your right WNY is july 15 - 18. probably a good idea to put it on the calendar.
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I have magical tools I am constantly buying 5/8" wrenches and they keep changing into 11/16' wrenches. I now own seven 11/16" wrenches which I have never bought but am lucky if I have a 5/8" wrench in my box.
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I had 60,000 on my 89 when I bought it in 2006 and now have 160,000 on it Have not touched the valve set so it is overdue but the bike runs like a charm. Problem is being a mechanic and working on trucks all day I tend to procrastinate when it comes to my own vehicles and yet the bike has forgiven me and remained reliable despite my neglect. That is not to say i don't keep my brakes, tires and other safety items in peak condition. just don't fuss over the engine as much as I should. I toss a four season cover on the bike when winter hits, it sits out side all year. Add seafoam to the fuel tank and fill it to the top to reduce condensation build up, plug in the battery tender and fire it up in the spring and off I go. Like I said the bike is quite hardy and forgiving. This is not to say that because I am a bad boy that everyone else should be. Obviously it is always better to give your bike the TLC it deserves. I only mention this to show how good of a machine these bikes are.
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Ooops did not think of that.
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Sometimes mine clicks for several seconds sometimes barely a second and sometimes it does not click at all. It depends how long the bike sat and on the residual pressure remaining in the line between the fuel pump and the carb. I actually never give it much thought because the bike runs fine. sometimes If the bike sat a long time like all winter I will turn the key on and off a couple times to better prime the fuel system before attempting to start. Point of interest if you remove the gas cap of your car and listen while someone else turns the ignition key on and off you will hear the same thing. So I actually take comfort in the fact that the pump clicks a few times when I turn on the key. If the is a problem say it was clicking too much I would suspect either the fuel pump is leaking off pressure or the line connection is leaking off pressure in either case the leak off need only be so slight that you may never ever even notice any type of fuel leak even slight evaporation from the fuel bowls through the vent tubes would be enough to reduce line pressure. Keep in mind line pressure is only 2 - 3 psi so it does not take much of a pressure loss for the pump to kick in and reestablish line pressure.
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Depending on covid and the border I would certainly consider it.
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Actually because @Flyinfoolwas stuck sitting at home He increased his WWWing, even extended his range this year. You know what they say about idle hands...
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These PDF's and word docx's will give you a good idea as to what is involved To check and set valve clearances. Yamaha V-Max and V-4 Valve Clearance.docx Venture Valve Adjustment Procedure.docx Yamaha V-Max and V-4 Valve Clearance.pdf VALVE SHIM ADJUSTMENT V4 1200 & 1300.pdf
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I agree plus I find them two soft and have worn out many of the the smaller sizes which resulted in rounding off nuts. I also do not like their sockets I have split about every craftsman socket I have owned. Split a lot of snapon ones as well. I find husky and gray to be much stronger as well as their ratchets. My husky ratchets are 55 years old and even though I have used pipes on the handles they are still as good today as when I got them as a teenager. Were as My Snapon ratchets are always stripping on me and just from normal use I don't dare use a pipe on them because I know they won't take it.. Granted they warranty them but a lot of good that does you when your out in the middle of no where trying to repair some drivers rig broke down on the side of the road. I have had a few craftsman ratchets and other than being bulky they have stood up to some good abuse as well.
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Cleaned up the garage then messed it up again then went in to the basement and cleaned up my woodworking shop again . Stripped down an 87 for parts need for my other two bikes. completed some wood working projects and continued with renovations still overdue for completion on the house. I have been off work a year now due to covid and still I don't seem to have enough hours in a day to tackle all my projects plus the HD list
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BTW ever notice that the birthdays @Marcarldraws attention too are the ones he is pretty sure are catching up to him in age..... Once again Happy birthday just the same @Freebird
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FYI: My first pair of Frogg Toggs, the zipper on my jacket kept pulling apart while ridding. I contacted Frogg Toggs and all they said was email them my size and address and they would send me a new set of Froggs. even though mine were a year old they sent them without any hesitation and they arrived very quickly. Turns out the zipper was a common issue being too light and the new pair came with a much heavier duty zipper. All in all I found them to be a very accommodating company to deal with.
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At 62,000 it's barely broken in. At best it may need its 1st valve set if not already done. These 1300 engines are high millage reliable engines and tend to give very little trouble. Many have gone beyond 150.000 and some have even surpassed 200,000. the bike itself may need some regular maintenance such as changing all fluids and checking tire and brake condition. How much depends on the TLC given by previous owner..
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Most here swap out the stock antenna for one of the CB radio brands like Wilson, K40 or Firestick. since most CB antennas mount the same you can add a fold down adapter to any of them if you so wish. Just make sure after you mount the antenna that you properly adjust its length using an SWR meter. This is a mandatory requirement for any CB whether you use an after market or OEM, they all have to be properly adjusted or matched as they say, or you could damage the CB. For the entertainment radio any automotive or CB antenna will do in this case adjustment is not critical.
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Happy Birthday Don.