saddlebum

A thin coating of silicone disc brake lube on all surfaces works wonders. I use it on any o-ring or rubber sleeve assembly task.

And that does not make it any easier for the rest of us men who get the "how come he gets it and you don't " accusation either verbally, physically or worse the dreaded LOOK

I know what you mean. I always just find it easier to phone them.

There used to be quite a few on here at one time but since the guys are getting older I guess they all left to find younger better looking men. At least @Yama Mamastill loves us

I always forget about the profile thing

Welcome Spencercityphoto We can always use another Ontario rider. Were in Ontario are you located?

@VentureDogI am not familiar with the SVTC but I assume the bike's speed is based on signals from electronic sensor's and since it has ABS it will most likely have both front and rear wheel speed sensors. That said I have to wonder if it is a programing issue, as some vehicles road speed signals are programmable to match actual tire diameter or rolling distance. It may be that the computer may need to be re-programmed to match the wheel speeds. This often shows up as PPM (pulses per mile ) or TRM or TRPM ( tire revolutions per mile ) or something similar. This tire RPM can often vary slightly between different tire brands even of the same size. for example a softer running tire would have higher RPM's than a Harder running tire. I would check with the dealer to see if it is a slight program change required to correct it.

@Gary N. did you try ZEDNO in Kitchener for the E4's ? that is were I usually get mine. Their price is usually pretty good and if you just bring them the wheels they will install and balance while you wait. Before covid I would usually rummage through their warehouse while I wait looking for good used add-ons for my bike. Then again if not for covid and since ZEDNO is in Kitchener which makes it somewhat central to a lot of the Ontario group we could have had a small meet and greet while you wait. BTW if you were happy with the E3's you will like the E4's as well. I ran both and was just as happy with one as I was with the other and got very good millage out of both.

UUH it was windy and I was holding the lid down so you wouldn't roll off in your sleep. Marca would never forgive me if anything bad happened to you under my watch. Whatever it was you was thinki'n you can get that outa yo head right now. And when you say maze does that include all those Marcarl Turns. Sorry I meant to say U-Turns .

The thread on the handle bar is M10x1.0 the available threads on the ball is M10x1.25, M10x1.5 or 3/8x24 so you tap the hole 1/2 way through from one end to M10x1.0 and then 1/2 way through from the other end to match the thread of the ball you intend to use.

Not sure if Quaker has improved or not but with so many trustworthy oils plus my past experience of dealing with the poor souls who have paid the price for using it, I am not willing to gamble on it.

He tried but the fairy captain did not want to loose all his customers or risk a mass stamped of people running for cover.

The actually supply a broad range of sizes https://www.rammount.com/shop-all/popular-components/b-size?facets[part_type][]=Threaded Ball and many other options see links in my previous post.

You could replace the nut that holds the the main handle bar in the riser with a long nut like used to join lengths of threaded rod together and thread a ramm ball mount into the other end. Or if you have a drill press and a set of taps ( or better yet a metal lathe ) or access to to any of those items, you can easily make one up out of some round stock. Drill and tap 1/2 way through to M10X1.0 and drill and tap the other end to fit the stud on the threaded ball. Some size examples; https://www.rammount.com/shop-all/popular-components/b-size?facets[part_type][]=Threaded Ball or choose from this assortment of mount options; https://www.rammount.com/shop-all/popular-components/b-size? https://www.rammount.com/shop-all/popular-components/b-size?facets[mount_function][]=Mirror Post https://www.rammount.com/shop-all/popular-components/b-size?

Did you check your bearings before putting it back together. Other than just plain old age, worn bearings are also a common cause of seal failure. Also be sure the is no groove on the wheel hub were the seal rides, or the new seal will fail. If there is, you can get repair sleeves for this. ordering is based on required hub diameter, and so as to give a friction fit during installation. They available in both metric and SAE and can be purchased through any automotive supplier ( Also commonly known as speedi sleeves ). If you do need to install one, coat the hub with a thin layer of Permatex® Form-A-Gasket® No. 2 Sealant, then install the sleeve. The sleeve should com with a tin cup for installation. Use a piece of wood over the cup rather than hitting directly with a hammer and keep it square to the axle or you will distort the sleeve they are extremely thin, Use alcohol to clean up any residue. Also don't forget to leave the 4 drive tube nuts just loose enough to allow movement when you snug up the axle shaft. after snugging up the axle shaft tighten them up and finally fully torque up your axle shaft.

We even had an expert photographer with us ....Carl's better half (by far ) Marca who caught both our good sides in one pic .. @Marcarl is the one on the left.

Well that depends are you coming after me or will you be sending Eileen. I got a big back log of hugs to make up for due to covid

Mine expires in may so I will be renewing when the time comes. Can't leave all the fun for @XV1100SE

One of the common practices in using a car top carrier is to mount it on a trailer frame such as harbor freights. https://www.harborfreight.com/1090-lb-capacity-40-12-in-x-48-in-utility-trailer-62645.html

I just use a couple short pieces of vacuum hose and jam either the ball from an old ball bearing I cut apart or a bucking rivet to plug the end. Just make sure the ball is big enough so as not to enter the tube. You can also cut the UN-threaded part of a bolt into tiny plugs. You should also be able to get caps from any automotive store as they are used on gas engines quite a bit.

That was my initial thought, the top ring to hoist up the hay and the bottom ring to be pulled on to release the hay but then when I looked at the size of it compared to the shoe in the picture its too small you would be forever hauling up hay.

A lot of the guys here just build one using a car top carrier or aluminum truck box. @Marcarlhas a real nice home built and if he is being in a sharing mood he may even show a picture of his. NIce thing about his is it is narrower and maybe a tad longer than most.

NOT everything.......I am still trying to find one that will help me understand my wife....

Funny you mention Quaker State. That is what this owner claimed to use QUOTE: "I don't understand it, I may not have changed my oil as often as I should (insert chuckle ) but I only ever used good Quaker state oil". I had a hard time holding back a big smirk. I would not use Quaker state on my wheel barrow. Any engine I ever pulled apart ( and that was a lot maybe up to 25 engines a year ) that was slugged up had been running Quaker State. When I was fleet manager for Beeline carrier's, which consisted of 300 trucks with Cat and Cummins diesels the Quaker State rep came in to see me about setting up a contract with them. We bought oil in bulk for the fleet 500 Can/gal equal to 600 us/gal at a time. My reply to him was no thank you the varnish content in their oil was too high. His reply was true Quaker had a little more varnish (insert chuckle ) than other oils but they actually have proven to reduce oil burning. I felt like say of course it did buy gumming everything up ( but I was nice and said I was more than happy with what we were using. My top choices for oil in those days was Shell Rotunda or Texaco Ursa.