saddlebum

I just found the invoice for my Deka battery while purging some paper work in my den. the purchase date was Mar 8- 2013. Some winters I put it on a battery tender and some I just plain forgot. In either case the batttery has never been removed from the bike and the bike has always sat outside through the winter under a good quality full bike cover Other than when in my garage to be worked on. To this day that battery is still kicking strong. That is over 10 years for a battery that cost me $94.00 at the time which was only $20.00 more than a standard Yuasa battery.

Maybe a suggested list of check points inc a lunch stop and then try to create a route to encompass them. Momma is in Highland IL which close to ST Louis, for the next three weeks so until she returns! I am the boss of me. ........I think anyway.

Like everyone else I am liking the news so far.

Here in Ontario unless you got the cash a second bike is out of the question because insurance company's still charge full pop for each bike even thoughyou can only ride one at a time. The excuse is you might let someone else ride the bike even if it's only once in a blue moon.

I resemble that 😇

To add to my earlier comment, Don, through your hard work I have learned a lot about the venture going from knowing very little to becoming extremely knowledgeable and adapt to the point were with my Mechanical back ground there is nothing I cannot do on these bikes and I am now fully capable of assisting others with their issues. I met a ton of great people some of which have become great friends even beyond the site. For this and more I will be forever grateful that you had the inspiration and the determination to start and maintain this site.

Ironically I rewired a house that actually makes that look safe in comparison. The owner used every thing from several strands of bell wire twisted together to 000 gauge welding cable. On top of that he joined them together in sardine cans which he used as junction boxes. How he never burned the house down is beyond me.

Probably required an ohmmeter to check resistance through the port. High ohms reading jet in place. Low ohms reading jet missing.

It is not always about how long it sits. The age of the brake fluid is also a big factor as brake fluid will absorb moisture. I do not even save opened containers of brake fluid for more than a year and that is only for topping up purposes. I get a fresh container anytime I do a complete fluid change or brake job.

Best is to find a place that will make custom windshields. We have a place called PA Plastics that will fabricate any type of windshield you want in a variety of tints. You simply give them your old windshield and they will duplicate it, even include any modifications you would like such as shorter/taller or narrower/wider. If your windshield is broken just give them the pieces the will use them as a template to make the new one. https://paplastics.com/boat-windshields/windshields/products.html https://bikescreen.com/ interesting video

Personally I prefer the OEM carb setup. For one thing with four carbs you can balance the engine better which is specially nice if your compression between cylinders vary. With a single carb you cannot, you can only attain a general adjustment across the board. If a carb fails you can still run on the other three to get somewhere other than the side of the road. Finally looking at the setup you would also reduce air volume though I guess air velocity would increase, maybe. There is a reason why in the muscle car hay day we replaced 2 barrel carbs with four barrel or even 6 packs. JMHO.

Also if you still have the linked braking system or delinked them yet left the proportioning valve in place on your bike, remove and check the proportioning valve. it too gets loaded up with the white crud. Regardless which is the cause of you problem if you have not changed the fluid in a very long time, it would be worth your time to remove inspect and clean all and replace the brake line. You can get brake lines from @skydoc_17

Other than a possible sprague clutch failure. If the bike has the original 2 brush starter it can give these types of symptoms or if it has a weak battery and/or dirty connections. My symptoms went away once I installed a four brush starter. The whine upon decelerating in gear is most likely coming from the drive pumpkin and is not all that uncommon nor is it always something to worry about. The sound is caused during deceleration because at this point the crown gear is placing thrust on the pinion gear, versus acceleration when the pinion is place thrust on the crown gear. The intensity of this whine is based on the backlash between the two gears which can based on how the backlash was set up during a rebuild to worn bearings. Drain the oil into a clean container check for a metallic appearance and/or fish around in the oil and the diff through the fill and drain holes looking for an abnormal amount of metal pieces or fillings. Don't be alarmed if you come with a small dusting amount of metal this is normal. What you are looking for is an unusual large amount or size. If nothing worrisome is found refill with clean oil, forget it , just ride and learn to ignore the noise.

There is a strict stipulation to this solution -----Bike must leak oil and shake at idle like a belly dancer.

Trust me I can relate. Dutch blood does run in my veins.

#1 did you remove the air cleaner #2 Did you make sure throttles are wide open #3 Make sure you have optimum cranking power add a boost battey or good charger Manual states 216 psi @ 175 rpm. This is for a fairly new engine and will reduce as the engine ages. Most used engines run between 110 and 130 PSI and no more than 20% between highest and lowest cylinder. Last time I checked mine they were 98- 120 psi and the engine runs like a dream. In any case I would not loose sleep over the readings you are getting and look more into fuel control for your rich fuel conditions.

https://www.venturerider.org/wiring/99-09 Yamaha Royal Star Venture Wiring Diagram Rev B.pdf Maybe the schematic link above will help you trace the circuits so you can narrow down as to were to look for a definite short between power and ground. It would appear when the bike fell over some wires got pinched so look in ares of physical damage for chaffed or pinched wires.

I have often been accused of placing too much effort into attempting to resurrect something that would in many cases be simpler to replace by finding a good used one or even replacing it. In your case you could even replace it with the ignitech TCI. However I have to respect your determination which has me beat 100 fold. You obviously are going through this out of curiosity and intrigue more so than necessity and I admit following your article has me intrigued as well. Just that you get to do the work while I get to watch from the comfort of my lazy boy.

@Freebird. Don, I am very sorry for what you must be going through on a personnel level and truly hope something can be done for you to ensure your quality of life does not get compromised more than it already has. My prayers and thoughts are with you and wish you only the best no matter what. As far you handing over the reins of a horse you raised from birth, it will definitely be a big pill for all of us that know, love and mostly respect you, to swallow. Finding someone with your convictions and dedication, to this site will not be easy. This site has always been unique and superior in so many ways and in comparison to so many other web sites, not just because of the caliber of its members but mostly because of you and your dedication to it.

Here is another cool link

Its guys like you that make male independence a thing of the past....................Coming dear .....Pssst to be continued later.

Took, the the bike to work today. Break in ride for the new shinko I just mounted. 1st thing I noticed was despite running 40 psi how much of a softer ride they gave over the E4. I do not expect to get great cornering just yet so I will reserve judgment until later.

I had dunlop 404 on my bike when I 1st got it and it would track like crazy. road snakes and grated bridge surfaces were scary. Switche to the E3 and later E4 and never had the issue again. I am now trying the shinko 777 and hoping for the same result. My only disappointment in the E3 & E4 was the life span. The tread had great wear life but the rubber itself started getting slippery in the bends at about the 50% wear mark as well the rubber started developing cracks

I feel your pain Brother I am replacing the back tire as we speak, which of course ruined any plans I had to ride this weekend. Came back from walking the dog on Thur when suddenly my line of vision was drawn towards the rear tire of my bike to note a big lengthwise split in my rear tire (a split not a cut) and probing it revealed it was separating from the cord as well. The tire still had better than 50% tread and was new in 21. As well it spent the past year sitting on my lift in the garage. This is the third set of Dunlop's I had to replace before its time. The first set (E3's) I replaced because the bike suddenly started to slide sideways on highway ramps despite still having 30% tread, the rubber just got hard. The second set E4's developed a bad case of hair line side wall cracks to numerous and deep to feel comfortable about. And now this second E4 with the 2 1/2 " split to the cord down the inside of one of the grooves. BTW it too was starting to get slippery in the turns, so maybe seeing the split was a blessing. In any case I am done with high end Dunlop's if any thing I would go back to the 404. However I decided to give the SHINKO 777 a try since they seem to have a good following on this site.

Decisions decisions. Sometimes it would be good to know what they really mean and other times ignorance can be bliss.