saddlebum

Sky doc is where I got my brake lines from. I purchased his de-linking kit. I purchase my clutch lines from a local shop by me as well as had other lines made up for another venture I was repairing for someone else. Initially I went to a hydraulic hose and fitting place who directed me to a place called Northern Performance here in Burlington Ontario.The reason they sent me there was that although they could make the lines they were not DOT certified for hydraulic Brake line were Northern Performance was. I simply took them the old lines and they duplicated them in stainless.

If the self cancelling signal stops self cancelling the fault would lie either with the self canceling relay unit or the speed sensor/switch. Usually the relay unit. Self cancelling occurs either 10 seconds after you start moving or within approx 500 feet whichever comes first when driving at slow speeds or by distance when driving at high speeds. To get at the relay or speed sensor you need to remove the head light. Mine has quit as well but for all it takes to cancel manually I can't be bothered getting into it. specially once you decide which is at fault you then have to find the parts to fix it.

What India is going through right now No country should suffer and all because of what I am told by Indian neighbors of mine with Family in India that it has a lot to do with bad handling and bad polices. It makes me sad when innocent children must suffer the results of bad choices. https://www.theglobeandmail.com/world/article-indias-tide-of-covid-19-deaths-leaves-huge-numbers-of-orphaned/

The wire is actually very simple to remove and/or install but as of your most recent explanation of the noise and keeping in mind this is only an educated guess, I would be inclined to think it has to do with movement between the tabs on the clutch discs and the slots they fit into on the clutch basket. Often with wear the begin to get a little sloppy. Chances are it is not something to get too concerned about.

Not that I ever recall hearing anything like that, which may be clutch related, I doubt it has anything to do with the wire. I would be more inclined to think it is the lash between the clutch disk fingers and the the splines in the clutch hub and basket or maybe some gear lash in the transmission. To know better I would have to hear it though. its even possible to be coming from the drive line if it has a worn u-joint which again I doubt or excessive gear lash between ring gear and pinion. Finally it may be nothing at all just normal drive-line behavior. .

yeh but if you go fast enough the trailer will just bounce up over

Not sure how much difference it would make, But one way you can go about running separate antennas for AM/FM and CB radio is to remove the radio consul on the left side and then the black cover from the top of the side fairing you will see the radio tuner and amplifier. Disconnect the antenna lead from the tuner, you will see it has one of the commonly used automotive antenna connections. Find yourself a quality automotive am/fm antenna with the same connection end and a cable long enough to run from front to were you plan to mount the antenna. Mount the antenna and plug the end directly into the short antenna connector on the tuner. tape up the old antenna end and just tuck it out of the way. This will by pass the antenna matching box on the right side and give you a direct hook up from the tuner to the new antenna. If you wish you can also use a second CB antenna mounted on the left side for this purpose. In this case instead of a pl259 connector on the end of the coax you will have to install a male Motorola connector on the coax ( If you wish to preserve the CB function and by pass the splitter box completely simply remove the antenna cable from the splitter box (this is on the right side by the CB) cut the end of the cable and replace with a PL- 259 connector and hook directly to the CB .You need to use an SWR meter to adjust the CB antenna's length to get the correct standing wave ratio or you could damage the CB when you hit the transmit. button. This should be done well away from buildings and wires to get the most accurate adjustment. The AM/FM antenna can be mounted on the opposite side and requires no adjustment. A PL-259 connector https://vetco.net/products/uhf-male-solder-connector-for-rg-8-pl-259 A male Motorola connector https://vetco.net/products/car-radio-antenna-motorola-connector-plug-best

I am not much different from you in that sense. I like to creep down slopes sometimes, in parking lots even use the clutch/throttle/brake combination to hold the bike at a stand still while maintaining balance. More importantly creep extremely slow into the parking lot at work so the girls looking out the office windows get to admire that guy on the good looking Venture or was that the good looking guy on the Venture (never could quite get that figured out ) as I slowly slide by. Whether having the carbon fiber clutch versus regular friction material is the difference I am not sure but I was informed by the experts at Barnett if I did a lot of slow riding that their carbon fiber was the way to go over their regular friction material as the regular could not take slip clutch as well as the carbon fiber.

@cowpucI assume when you mean slow riding it is not far of from what I refer to as softer engagement. In my case I replaced my Clutch with the Barnett clutch ( Keep in mind here when one says they used the Barnett clutch that Barnett has a variety of clutch friction material and spring strength options ). Now in my case I purchased the kit with the carbon fiber clutch which has been recommended for slow riding and is used in many police bikes for that reason. The carbon fiber has a high wear resistance to slip clutching and yet when fully engaged there is no slippage even when pulling a heavily loaded trailer. With regards to clutch feel I myself found or at least I think I found I had better clutch feel with the Barnett carbon fiber clutch over the OEM setup. You do however require a bit stronger grip for the clutch lever since the springs are heavier so for some it is possible that the softer spring may give them a better feel over the stiffer spring. Not to make this sound the wrong way, but for a tradesman like myself who has spent their life working with heavy tools or someone who works out your grip does tend to be stronger than someone who for example works in an office type job and/or does not work out, in which case you may want to consider wether or not a stiffer clutch is a good idea. On the other hand if you do opt for the stiffer clutch your grip will strengthen over time from working the clutch, so there are a few things to consider such as the points cowpuc mention in his post and the points I have raised in this one. for example if your ride one up and never pull heavy there may be no need to go to a heavier clutch.

the first clutch disc going in has only half the friction material and the remaining void is taken up by two metal discs and the thin wire is to keep them in position. This is to allow for soft engagement of the clutch. Most of us toss out this disc the washers and thin wire and replace them with a full friction face disc for better clutch grab. Also since this is a wet clutch you should never add any slip modifiers or use oil with slip modifiers added.

GREAT -----THANKS A LOT----- now you got me thinking if I remembered to re-install the washer or not on the oil change I just completed. Sometimes when you've done things so often, you just go through the motions. Odds are if I pull it back apart I will find I did and if I leave it until next oil change I will find I left it out

The E4 is available in both bias and radial were as i have only seen the the 777 in bias so watch that if you intend to mix. And even if both tires are bias i think I would be a little concerned over the fact that the E4 has a much stiffer side wall then the Shinko though it may not matter at all, as long as both are either radial or bias but not one radial and one bias.

Hey Steve good to see you back.

I don't see how that is supposed to work. It looks like its just glued to the ceiling as I see no bolts and were are are the lift cables and winch.

Mixing Radial with bias is a definite NO NO and this applies to both cars and motorcycles. We have been able to get away with it on transports using radial on the steer axle and bias on the tandem drives but that is the only case were it is acceptable. As Far as spooning your own hides @cowpucthe only reason you had issues with the E4s is like I told you in another thread. Your spoons are too short you need a set of 3 foot truck tire spoons and somebody heavy enough to stand in the middle of the wheel while you apply leverage without tweaking your back. easy peasy

@cowpucI have only swapped out tires on the 1st gens. On my MK 2 did not have to remove the saddle bags but I did have to remove the right side exhaust pipe so the axle bolt would come out. Now to be clear I don't have OEM exhaust pipes and so not sure if that would still be required with the OEM pipes (guess I could look at my bike and see since I just replace my aftermarket pipes with OEM pipes last week. As far as removing the bags if you want to it is possible to remove the bags bumper and rear reflector in one piece. each bag has two bolts in the bottom and two in the top of the inside wall. Once all eight bolts are removed and you removed the signal light bulb and socket from below you can carefully lift the entire assembly off in one piece. It can be a little tricky getting it to slide past the license plate holder as the mounting rubbers catch it if you do not remove them. Now having said all that for myself after having done it a few times, and for the little extra work (about 5 minutes), I find it less cumbersome to remove the reflector (one nut on the inside of each saddlebag ) and the center bumper section ( two sheet metal screws on each end ) and remove the saddle bags separately as well as making them easier to handle putting them back on (bumper ends and signal light housing can stay attached to the bags just remove the light sockets from underneath. the whole job takes about 15 to 20 minutes. Also the few minutes you save by not removing the extra pieces can be quickly used up struggling with double bags both removing and putting back on.

That is a true possibility, yet at the same time Yamaha's photography skills when it comes to their 1st gen manuals leaves a whole lot to be desired. Sometimes I think my grandchildren could have done a better job with their crayons. This is why a lot of members here create pictures of the job at hand most of them taken by helpful members who do have a good idea of what they are doing. Even if you don't follow or agree exactly with the steps taken by the donator of the pics and maybe have a different way of approaching the task at hand, because of their clarity, and if you combine them with either the instructions in the manual or the advice given by the more skilled and knowledgeable members here, they are still without a doubt very useful.

These days I go to Home depot and just shudder at how I see some people load there vehicles. I once saw a guy load too much drywall on the roof racks of an old full size station wagon and against the advice of both me and the guy loading it suggesting he half it and do two trips. He ignored us and insisted it would be fine. as drove out of the warehouse and the back wheels dropped of the curb every piece of glass in that old wagon just shattered. had it not been for the fact that automotive glass is laminated I am sure there would have been glass 100 yards away. Yes I like to think I wizened up some since my mid twenties, I think

Like I said I knew better but took a chance and yes there was a good chance of coming out of this a whole lot worse including a major violation fine. I was a lot younger, bolder and defiant in those early 80's days. Oh yeh I forgot dumb and it was probably lucky I managed to keep my wits about me and concentrate on driving out of it instead of touching the brakes.

Did that once with a 6 ft trailer way overloaded with twenty 8 foot sheets drywall ( I knew better but it was on sale and going fast so I took a chance ). Any way car and trailer whipped back and forth across three lanes several times before I managed to regain control, while going over a bridge. Fortunately nothing come of it but I am sure I was not the only one requiring a change of underwear that day.

Just bend the tongue slightly to the bent side of the trailer that will square the ball up to axle plus make the trailer easier to see out the left hand mirror.

@Yamaha32088Rather than trying to cut it off I remove sleeves like that were ever that type of seal is used by A) tapping on the sleeve with a small ball peen hammer or I round the end of a chisel and gently tap like I am trying to cut across the ring, which it wont it will just dent and flatten the ring. What both methods do is flatten the ring material more and there by causing the ring to expand (grow in size). Continue working your way around the ring until it expands to the point were it easily slides off. Any kind of cutting method all to often results in nicking or damaging the shaft. If you already cut it off and nick the shaft coat the seal area with https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex-form-a-gasket-no-2-sealant/ . Any mess or excess can be easily cleaned with alcohol. Also if the outer diameter of the new seal is rubber or rubber coated, coat the diameter of the seal and the bore it fits into with gear oil. Don't force it in dry. If it is a bare metal outer diameter, just give it a thin coat of Permatex 2 or red silicone. If it is metal with a coating on it put it in dry.

Not that I am against mixing tires as long as they are of the same construction type and though I am not personally familiar with the 777 I am on my second set 0f E4's. My concern would lie in the fact that the E4 has a fairly stiff side wall were I understand the Shinko's have a more flexible side wall and I would want to be sure those differences do not have an adverse effect on the bikes handling. I am sure someone here has mixed them and it would be good if they made a comment on their experience.

Before you jump too far ahead check thing s out first. I had a similar issue some years back and found #3 miss firing due to no spark. Was about to replace the ignition module when I noticed the corroded connectors as I started pulling it apart. I cleaned everything using thin strips of sand paper were I could spraying everything with contact cleaner as I worked away. Then sprayed everything with ACF50 as a final cleaning flushing well and reassembled everything. The bike has run like a charm ever since and that was 5 years ago.

From what you are saying I am inclined to agree the issue could be electrical. I would go over all the wiring to the ignition system checking for loose, corroded wires and fretting terminals specially the ones going to the ignition module. Even if they look not bad clean them up with contact cleaner and then put some type of terminal corrosion protector on them. Some use dielectric grease, myself for electronics and low voltage circuits I prefer something lighter like ACF50 which cleans and protects as well as many other uses. You can get it from amazon and some auto bike parts stores carry it. https://learchem.com/industry/motorcycle.html https://learchem.com/products/acf-50.html