saddlebum

Mixing Radial with bias is a definite NO NO and this applies to both cars and motorcycles. We have been able to get away with it on transports using radial on the steer axle and bias on the tandem drives but that is the only case were it is acceptable. As Far as spooning your own hides @cowpucthe only reason you had issues with the E4s is like I told you in another thread. Your spoons are too short you need a set of 3 foot truck tire spoons and somebody heavy enough to stand in the middle of the wheel while you apply leverage without tweaking your back. easy peasy

@cowpucI have only swapped out tires on the 1st gens. On my MK 2 did not have to remove the saddle bags but I did have to remove the right side exhaust pipe so the axle bolt would come out. Now to be clear I don't have OEM exhaust pipes and so not sure if that would still be required with the OEM pipes (guess I could look at my bike and see since I just replace my aftermarket pipes with OEM pipes last week. As far as removing the bags if you want to it is possible to remove the bags bumper and rear reflector in one piece. each bag has two bolts in the bottom and two in the top of the inside wall. Once all eight bolts are removed and you removed the signal light bulb and socket from below you can carefully lift the entire assembly off in one piece. It can be a little tricky getting it to slide past the license plate holder as the mounting rubbers catch it if you do not remove them. Now having said all that for myself after having done it a few times, and for the little extra work (about 5 minutes), I find it less cumbersome to remove the reflector (one nut on the inside of each saddlebag ) and the center bumper section ( two sheet metal screws on each end ) and remove the saddle bags separately as well as making them easier to handle putting them back on (bumper ends and signal light housing can stay attached to the bags just remove the light sockets from underneath. the whole job takes about 15 to 20 minutes. Also the few minutes you save by not removing the extra pieces can be quickly used up struggling with double bags both removing and putting back on.

That is a true possibility, yet at the same time Yamaha's photography skills when it comes to their 1st gen manuals leaves a whole lot to be desired. Sometimes I think my grandchildren could have done a better job with their crayons. This is why a lot of members here create pictures of the job at hand most of them taken by helpful members who do have a good idea of what they are doing. Even if you don't follow or agree exactly with the steps taken by the donator of the pics and maybe have a different way of approaching the task at hand, because of their clarity, and if you combine them with either the instructions in the manual or the advice given by the more skilled and knowledgeable members here, they are still without a doubt very useful.

These days I go to Home depot and just shudder at how I see some people load there vehicles. I once saw a guy load too much drywall on the roof racks of an old full size station wagon and against the advice of both me and the guy loading it suggesting he half it and do two trips. He ignored us and insisted it would be fine. as drove out of the warehouse and the back wheels dropped of the curb every piece of glass in that old wagon just shattered. had it not been for the fact that automotive glass is laminated I am sure there would have been glass 100 yards away. Yes I like to think I wizened up some since my mid twenties, I think

Like I said I knew better but took a chance and yes there was a good chance of coming out of this a whole lot worse including a major violation fine. I was a lot younger, bolder and defiant in those early 80's days. Oh yeh I forgot dumb and it was probably lucky I managed to keep my wits about me and concentrate on driving out of it instead of touching the brakes.

Did that once with a 6 ft trailer way overloaded with twenty 8 foot sheets drywall ( I knew better but it was on sale and going fast so I took a chance ). Any way car and trailer whipped back and forth across three lanes several times before I managed to regain control, while going over a bridge. Fortunately nothing come of it but I am sure I was not the only one requiring a change of underwear that day.

Just bend the tongue slightly to the bent side of the trailer that will square the ball up to axle plus make the trailer easier to see out the left hand mirror.

@Yamaha32088Rather than trying to cut it off I remove sleeves like that were ever that type of seal is used by A) tapping on the sleeve with a small ball peen hammer or I round the end of a chisel and gently tap like I am trying to cut across the ring, which it wont it will just dent and flatten the ring. What both methods do is flatten the ring material more and there by causing the ring to expand (grow in size). Continue working your way around the ring until it expands to the point were it easily slides off. Any kind of cutting method all to often results in nicking or damaging the shaft. If you already cut it off and nick the shaft coat the seal area with https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex-form-a-gasket-no-2-sealant/ . Any mess or excess can be easily cleaned with alcohol. Also if the outer diameter of the new seal is rubber or rubber coated, coat the diameter of the seal and the bore it fits into with gear oil. Don't force it in dry. If it is a bare metal outer diameter, just give it a thin coat of Permatex 2 or red silicone. If it is metal with a coating on it put it in dry.

Not that I am against mixing tires as long as they are of the same construction type and though I am not personally familiar with the 777 I am on my second set 0f E4's. My concern would lie in the fact that the E4 has a fairly stiff side wall were I understand the Shinko's have a more flexible side wall and I would want to be sure those differences do not have an adverse effect on the bikes handling. I am sure someone here has mixed them and it would be good if they made a comment on their experience.

Before you jump too far ahead check thing s out first. I had a similar issue some years back and found #3 miss firing due to no spark. Was about to replace the ignition module when I noticed the corroded connectors as I started pulling it apart. I cleaned everything using thin strips of sand paper were I could spraying everything with contact cleaner as I worked away. Then sprayed everything with ACF50 as a final cleaning flushing well and reassembled everything. The bike has run like a charm ever since and that was 5 years ago.

From what you are saying I am inclined to agree the issue could be electrical. I would go over all the wiring to the ignition system checking for loose, corroded wires and fretting terminals specially the ones going to the ignition module. Even if they look not bad clean them up with contact cleaner and then put some type of terminal corrosion protector on them. Some use dielectric grease, myself for electronics and low voltage circuits I prefer something lighter like ACF50 which cleans and protects as well as many other uses. You can get it from amazon and some auto bike parts stores carry it. https://learchem.com/industry/motorcycle.html https://learchem.com/products/acf-50.html

I emailed progressive requesting instructions for the 1st gen fork spring install and here is the latest version which they sent me two days ago. I only glanced over it but it does not seem to vary much from the the version Bob K. posted Instruction Sheet Part #3055 Rev. G.pdf

Soooo Phantom wife not only exists but has a name as well ! Happy Birthday Beverly and many more now that we know you are not just a figment of Phil's imagination !!

Wife: Why is it a man can hit a deer between the eyes at 200 yards but miss a 2 foot dia bowl from only two feet away? Husband: Cause my rifle has a scope and my pistol don't!

speed rating of tire is usually designated by a letter on the tire side wall see chart below 75 mph 120 km/h M 81 mph 130 km/h N 87 mph 140km/h P 93 mph 150 km/h Q 99 mph 160 km/h R 106 mph 170 km/h S 112 mph 180 km/h T 118 mph 190 km/h U 124 mph 200 km/h H 130 mph 210 km/h V 149 mph 240 km/h

You could always replace them with 530/12. the bolt pattern would be the same and you can choose between 4 ply approx 850 lbs at 55 psi or 6 ply approx 1050 lbs at 80 psi.. You can often find sales on rim and tire assembly's for about the cost of a tire.

I do not think forgiveness is required it clearly states trailer weighing more than 750 lbs it does not say a loaded trailer or GVW. So I would take that as curb weight of trailer only and would argue that if I were to get stopped or charged.

You could always hook a CB to it and use it for a CB base station and stay in touch with venture riders via CB that are on the move.

Check out the local car parts dealers these fittings are often used on cars for vacuum lines etc.. Also check and see if there is a hose and fitting supplier like Parker Hannifin in your area.

There should be 2 air vent tubes and 1 fuel supply line . The 2 black tee's (one on each side between the diaphragm covers is were the vent tubes go. The brass looking pipe on the right side of the picture is were the fuel line goes. If your not sure which hose is which just either blow through them, the two you can blow through are the vent/air tubes the one you can't ( tastes worse than the other two ) is the fuel line. Alternatively just follow the hoses and see which one goes to the fuel pump.

I agree I would rather replace my more often then wear down my rotors.

Agreed do not cut back on the oil. As a matter of fact cut back far enough you will hamper the dampening effect and you will end up with a bouncy front end. You can always shorten the spacer tube if it rides too hard.

Elementary, it was the only spot on the bike that was without a sticker.

@Pasta BurnerThe other is for the sending unit at the top of the tank

Took it off the work table, and went for my 1st ride of the season. A little later than I normally would begin riding but the more I worked on it the more little things I found that either needed to be or may as well address. including top set polishing removed parts on the buffing wheels I mounted on my wood turning lathe, while they were off the bike.This of course led to having to remove and buff parts that I initially intended not to bother with but once you start bring some aluminum pieces up to a chrome like finish, the ones you were just going to let go look even worse. So off they come and to the make shift polishing station they go. Swapped out rusty chrome crash bars with a good looking set I salvaged from an 87 I stripped down for parts and all this being fitted in with refurbishing a hard top camper that belonged to my son. Thanks to my big mouth I stuck my foot right into a cowpuc ( pun intended @cowpucLOL ). and got myself elected to do the work. But that is another story.