saddlebum

That's why after years of experience I have come up with a series of steps to simplify conversions: A: Stop planning or thinking ( the second part of this step has gotten easier for me over the years ) B: Should step "A" not proceed as intended sit and drink a few beers ( as many as it takes ) until you get back on track with "A" C; Sit Back and let others do the conversions ( I find it produces less headaches ) this step may require a beer or 2 or ...... to make it more effective. D: This step is optional: While in step "C" Criticize heavily and don't forget to wear your couch potatoes badge to lend an air of officialness. (any shyness here can be overcome with the assistance of a few beers taken as needed) BTW would love to see some side picks.

Looks good from the front but whats with all the wires hanging off the side. You plan on going trolling

Not exactly. When bridging a bad section the voltmeter acts as a bypass or detour. The worse the connection or the higher the load placed on the circuit the higher the reading because more voltage is taking the detour. What you want to see is no volts at all in this type of test. Say you touch one test lead to the Batt post and one lead to the clamp or terminal on that post. With the circuit powered or loaded up and you see no voltage you know you have a perfect connection at the battery terminal. If there is a reading you have a bad connection and the higher the reading the worse the connection. Keep in mind the bigger the load on the circuit the higher the reading as well and the easier to find the bad connection. I sometimes add an old head lamp to the circuit to make this test more effective. An old fashioned test light used in place of the voltmeter will work to. No light circuit is good. Any light at all circuit is not good and the worse it is the brighter the light. Here again you would have to clean or repair the bad connection or faulty wire.

You will find this site becomes as much a family and friendship forum ( had to throw that second part in cuz not all family's get along ) as it is a motorcycle forum. That is why you will find members who started out owning Ventures but stayed even after switching machines to something other other than Ventures. Often times friendships get formed here on site that continue to grow off site. Now I will have to admit the jury is still out on @cowpucbut we are just such darned good folk we let him hang around anyway

So I assume Your handle has nothing to do with your cooking skills and pasta that tastes like burnt rubber.

Are you telling us you have a closed mind and it is hard to open

If I send you mine can you dry mine for me. My wife won't let me near anything in the kitchen.

After following Marcarl's steps then start again only this time leave the positive test lead connected on the battery and test along all your ground connections. If you see a sudden drop following Marcal's directions you have a bad connection or wire on the pos side. If you find a sudden drop in voltage following my directions then you have a bad connection or wire on the ground side. Also when you say "the same readings if tested using the inputs to each fuse." are saying the voltage before and after the fuse is the same or is it different? If the reading is different before the fuse from what you get after the fuse I would say the fuse connections are probably corroded and/or dirty. This is specially true if you still have the old glass fuses. the fuse retaining clips on these not only get corroded but they often get very weak making for a very poor connection to the fuse

Prayers on your behalf have been spoken. Best of luck in recuperating. Really sorry to hear you are going through this.

Try hitting it a couple times with the hammer like you're driving a nail in just not so hard that you're going to break something sometimes it will Jarr the threads and let it break loose. Even better if you have a brass punch to hold against it while you're hitting it with the hammer

Are you testing from the same ground point

When the engine is cold remove the rad cap and switch the valve to on then just let it sit for a bit. You may want to pinch the hose for the overflow so it does not drain all its coolant out. May not hurt to lower the rad level a bit but you do not need to drain it right down after letting it sit refill. turn the valve to off (for now leave the hose for the overflow pinched off or leave the over flow empty ) and warm the engine up to temp. If you watch the temp gauge you will see it slowly climb then make a sudden slight drop ( this when the thermostat opens ) Let it do this a couple times ( you will notice a smaller drop each time as the engine warms ). After a couple cycles shut down the engine and let it fully cool down. Once cooled down Remove the rad cap top up the rad and replace rad cap then un-pinch and/or top up the overflow tank to its cold level. This is a bit overkill but the surest way of making sure air is removed from the cooling system. Also if the bike is on the center stand while doing this tip the bike back so the front wheel is up and the back wheel down by either weighing or tying down the back of the bike. this makes the front of the bike the high point to which you want any air in the system to gravitate too.

And I will third it @Squidleyand many others like him Personify what this site is all about.

This is true for any repair shop. If the repair bill is going to exceed the resale value of the machine the shop is taking a chance on getting reimbursed for parts and labor. At the truck shop I work at we do not refuse any vehicle but we do inform the customer of the costs they could be running into and if those costs exceed the value of the vehicle the customer is given the option to refuse any further expense or to pay all or a percentage of the possible cost involved in advance, with the understanding that because it is an older machine that once we get into it other issues could crop up and we will do our best to keep them informed as we proceed should they wish to pull the plug at any given time.

Welcome to the site and yes we are extremely active both technically and socially, though the covid thing has slowed things down a bit.

That's what most of us do on the 1st gens and so far I have not known it to be an issue.

Generally speaking total advance is usually base timing plus advance timing.

I think a hard pull up hill maybe even lugging it in higher gear while doing would be a good test for ping. If you can lug up hill in too high a gear and get no ping I would say you can cross ping off your concern list. Also I am not sure how much Dingy stays in touch with this site anymore but you may find him on one of the V-Max sites.

No one said just cause yu paid the $12 bucks that ya had to go gettin and swallerin advice from the rest of us crazies

You could, and I am just going off the top of my head here without studying the bikes schematics, I would say you would need two relays one for each light ( Left and right ) since you do not want to interfere with normal signal function. Cut the wire to the left signal light. Connect the wire coming from the the light to terminal 30 and the other wire to terminal 87a. . (which is NC) Now do the same thing with the second relay and the right signal light. At this point the signal lights should work as normal again. Next, tap into the red wire from the back off module and run to terminals 87 of both relays. Connect terminals 85 of both relays to ground Connect terminals 86 of both relays to either the yellow wire of the back off module or the same terminal on the optional switch the yellow wire is connected to. this should keep the front signals operating as normal when the optional switch is off but switch the lights over to the back off module when the optional switch is on.

I like to start with a cold engine and just use my hand to see how quickly each pipe warms up initially then follow up with a temp gun. BTW I noticed your using red or pink coolant just make sure it is not DEXCOOL which was designed for Certain GM engines. In other engines it has been known to be very unkind to head gaskets.

Its not uncommon to see a build up of pressure with the rad cap off because you are lowering the boiling point when you remove the pressure cap. Think about the times you fill a cooling system then run it without the cap usually end up with a sudden shower. That,s not to say that maybe there is not a bit too much bubbling going on there but also not that it particularly is an issue either. With the coolant lowered and temperature rising that bubbling could just be due to expansion of both air and coolant in the rad. With the amount bubbling through the solution with out changing colour however I would say there are no combustion gases entering the rad. The fluid is very sensitive and changes colour very easily if there is any combustion gas existing. Matter of fact we would take a breath sample with it to see if the fluid was still good.

Here is everything I have on it and I believe it covers 83 - 89. @dingy was the one I got all my info and help from. He seems to be playing with it all the time. Also @Jayceesfollymay have something to add as I believe he is running it on his 89 Aftermarket TCI available.docx Change to different program in TCI.pdf Ignitech Venture TCI Installation Instructions.pdf Jim Crane 8-23-14.ign Loading dwell change into TCI-1.pdf Loading program change into TCI.pdf manual_sparker_tcip4_v80_en.pdf

Yes @Shaw as Marcarl say's leave it, that is just the hydro-static effect of the oil in the crankcase driving the gear and is perfectly normal. Its with the bike sitting on the ground and wanting to go forward on you even with the clutch pulled in when you want to start looking at things.