saddlebum

No good for the Venture unless you want to tow it with the engine running in order to make sure the transmission is lubricated. Otherwise you could sustain transmission damage.

Also I find an ohmmeter used to check for resistance in a circuit not as effective to check for bad or faulty connections because as stated by @Flyinfoolan ohmmeter draws so very little currant. I have seen a circuit with a corroded wire test good by an ohmmeter because the green powder bridging the gap had enough conductivity to fool the ohmmeter into showing a good reading.

Not sure if this will work on a second gen but here is how I bench set the floats on my 89 I also made my own carb sync tool from junk I had laying around. Home made set up for wet setting floats on the bench.pdf HOMEMADE CARB SYNC TOOL.pdf

I have removed them one at a time and as a pair. Time wise I find little difference and therefore I prefer to remove them as separate units as they are less awkward to handle this way specially if you only need to remove one side. you do not need to remove all the chrome or the signal light either. STEP 1: From inside the box remove the 4 big screws (2 on the upper inside wall and 2 on the bottom) remove the nut at the back of the box which secures the reflector (one in each box) STEP 2: From outside the box remove the four small screws that hold the center piece of the pumper to the end pieces (2 screws on each end) also (the end pieces do not need to be removed from the box) From underneath twist out the turn signal bulb holders The box is now ready to lift off. Even though the brake pads can be reached without removing the box for the few minutes it takes to remove the one saddlebag it gives you handier access to the caliper.

Make sure it is neutral than locate the start solenoid left of the battery. Bridge the two big terminals on the solenoid (this bypasses all the safe guards and switches etc involved with the starter circuit) and you are putting power directly from the battery to the starter. If the starter still will not crank you likely have a bad starter or a bad ground. If it does crank over than you should be able to ride the bike home. Then you need to check all switches wiring and relays related to the starting circuit.

Your right my mistake You should still be able to find a connector from the fan and supply 12 volts directly to that connector to verify if the fan runs or not.

The idea behind progressives is to still give you a smooth comfortable ride while stiffening up as the load on the front forks increase such as in hard braking or adding weight to the bike. Linear do not have a variable spring rate in the same sense and tend to ride harder.

sign up as a full fledged member you will not regret it. As far as clueless goes your in the right spot to deal with that temporary affliction you will not find a more knowledgeable nor helpful group than the ones you will find here. Some may even show up on your doorstep to lend a hands on hand if they are close enough and you are in dire need of such assistance. Nobody here is perfect but the combined knowledge of all surpasses anything you you may need.

Have you thought about using arched ramps. Also I guess you needed the extra room on the trailer for the cases of Apple Pie

At least you know its getting their attention.

Sad to hear Rod but stick around just the same. If we can put up with a bikeless @Flyinfoolwe can put up with anybody

the thermo switch should be threaded into the thermostat housing. If the fuse is ok try the following. if a single wire goes to the thermo switch disconnect it and with the key on ground the wire if the fan is ok it should run. If it is a double wire disconnect it and jump the 2 wires together the fan should run. If it does you likely need a new thermal switch or in the case of the 2 wire set up a noise filter. if you can get to the 2 wire connector for the fan you can put 12volts directly to the fan to see if the fan itself works or not. if it does not and you can find no fault in the wiring going to the fan then you likely need a new fan. On my bike I installed a fan override switch so I could manually turn the fan on early if I want to or as a backup if the thermo switch should ever fail.

With my 1st Gen MK2 I actually went back to a PIAA hi output Halogen bulb after trying three different LED's. Although the LED was brighter I found it lacked projection, proper focus and definition of road objects with 90% of the light cast being directly in front allowing for much less reaction time. It is my belief that the reflector design is not well suited to the proper focusing of the LED bulb. On the other hand if you can replace the entire headlight with a self contained LED sealed beam as you would be able too with the MK1 83-85 and other bikes that use a sealed beam or were the headlight can be replace with a complete sealed beam unit, it would be very effective since the LED and reflector are designed to work together. some examples of sealed beam LED headlights. https://www.grote.com/white-light/forward-lighting/led-sealed-beam-headlights/

The neutral switch is a grounding switch in other words instead of switching the 12 vlt pos side of a circuit it switches the ground side of a circuit on/off. Because of that the switch itself cannot cause a fuse to blow if it were shorted to ground. instead if it were shorted to ground the neutral light would stay on all the time. However if the brown wire from the signal fuse was shorted across to the light/green wire to the neutral as in having rubbed together somewhere in the circuit this would blow the signal fuse. As you can see in the schematic the neutral switch also provides ground signal for the carb heater relay, the starting circuit and the igniter unit as well as the neutral light. Carb heater relay - disconect relay and/or connector to see if issue continues disconnect connector at relay connect test light or voltmeter to ground and test for currant at light green wire on connector it should light up or show voltage. disconnect eight pin connector at igniter unit, carb heater relay, and 12 pin connector at starting circuit cut off relay assembly. recheck for voltage as in test #2. if no voltage this time circuit should be Ok. If there is voltage go to test #4 While performing voltage check as in test #2 remove signal fuse. If indication of voltage goes away there the light green wire from the neutral switch and the brown wire from the signal fuse have shorted together somewhere in the circuit.

does it happen only on left or right or both? does it matter if handlebars are straight ahead or when they are turned ? (if only occurs while turning handlebars check for wiring fault in and around steering head and handle bars) With the bike parked and turning turn signals on first right and then left does one of the lights appear dimmer than the others? (check for wiring fault or short to ground in wiring feeding the dimmer bulb ) Check for a faulty bulb specially the dual filament bulbs in front ( they have been known to develop an internal short across the dual filaments strong enough to blow fuse and often times this issue can be intermittent. Check wiring around steering head going up to cluster for possible chaffing Follow the front signal light wires to a 6 pin connector with only 5 pins used I think it may be a blue connector and pull connector apart. Retry using your signals if issue went away the issue is between that connector and signals. Go to step 7. If it is still there wiring from connector to signals is OK. Go to step 8. Disconnect connector at rear going to rear lights. (if issue goes away check wiring to rear lights if still there check forward upstream of connector). Check wiring between blue connector and handle bar switch. 99-09 Yamaha Royal Star Venture schematic.pdf

Hey @cowpucmaybe you could really fine tune them with a guitar tuner like this https://www.long-mcquade.com/6263/Guitars/Tuners/Apex-Electronics/Clip-On-Chromatic-Tuner.htm or one of the free tuner apps you can put on your cell phone. Might be right handy for those who have a tin ear.

Late as Usual but hope you had a happy birthday just the same.

No I actually have long legs. I can put my feet down flat and still slightly bend my knees. My inseam is 35". This is the extended part. It replaces the short part that comes standard with the highway pedal.https://www.kuryakyn.com/products/559/male-mount-footpeg-extensions

Ok I am assuming when you say yellow/blue you really mean blue/yellow (Ly) and when you say black/blue you really mean blue/black (LB) With wiring were there are two colors the wire color comes first and the color of the strip on that wire comes second Ly would be blue wire with yellow strip. LB would be blue wire with black strip.

If the side stand switch or the clutch switch were faulty you would not be able to crank the engine over and since you can I would assume they are OK. I do not have a lot of second gen experience but I am good with electrical regardless so studying the following schematics. I will try to help best I can. In my experience as a mechanic schematics are your best friend regardless of the vehicle. DO THE FOLLOWING CHECKS WITH ALL CONNECTORS DISCONNECTED AT THE IGNITER UNIT check the connectors at your igniter unit to be sure the contacts are all clean and secure. If not clean and repair (particularly look for greenish powdery looking stuff known as terminal fretting ) Looking at the 6 pin connector from the igniter unit test the black wire for proper ground connection With ignition switch on check for GROUND at the blue/black on the 8 pin connector. (if no ground check Ignition switch see test #9, neutral switch and and clutch switch) Check the Black/white wire at 4 pin connector for ground ( if no ground check the the emergency fall over sensor switch ) Check the red/black wire going to the coils (this should have 12VOLTS with key on and stop switch in run position) Check the sky blue wire at the at the 8 pin connector 1st with bike in neutral and then with bike in gear. In one position this wire should show good ground and in the other position No ground. (if no ground check Ignition switch see test #9, neutral switch and and clutch switch) Connect an ohmmeter between the yellow wire and blue wire at the 8 pin connector and roll the throttle. Resistance should vary up and down as you roll the throttle back and forth. You can check manual for exact spec range to be more precise if needed. Connect an Ohmmeter between the black/blue and the white/red wires on the 8 pin connector. These are the two wires going to your pickup coil and should read 189 to 231 ohms. Disconnect connectors at ignition switch connect ohmmeter between blue/yellow and blue/black should show closed circuit with switch on and open circuit with switch off. If any of the above tests fail back track the faulty circuit until you find the cause. I start by tracing back to the next connector until I find at which connector the issue begins and then check the wiring between the connector that test out good and the one that test out bad. this is a quick way to isolate were the issue exists rather than randomly jumping all over the board hoping to get get lucky. https://www.venturerider.org/wiring/99-09 Yamaha Royal Star Venture Wiring Diagram Rev B.pdf

They do benefit riders with short legs though.

What......There is a counter on it too

Assuming the floor is 1-1/2 inches thick you could recess e-tracks down each side and that opens you up to all kinds of flexibility by allowing you to move your tie points were you need them. You can even get ratchet straps designed specially to fit the e-tracks. https://www.dccargomall.com/e-a-track-tie-downs.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&gclid=CjwKCAjwzMeFBhBwEiwAzwS8zI_2fpKEqpIGbmjs01oYzoZrQQ361eqhAp8x4m1tjFCnJOZRQr-c4hoCuOwQAvD_BwE

Good choice