saddlebum

Definitely a plug patch is the way to go but if the entry is too steep of an angle than plug 1st buff flat on the inside and then place the proper patch.

If they do repair it make sure the hole gets filled as well you do not want water and other debris getting in the hole.

sticking or improperly adjusted throttle cables and/or twist grip, idle adjust set to high, carb sync adjusters way out of adjustment, improperly set needles in the barrels, possible vacuum leak just to name a few that come to mind.

Have been down the same road numerous times. I am a firm believer in using a light coating of PERMATEX HIGH TACK gasket spray. I spray a light coating on both the gasket and gasket surface and allow to dry until it is still just tacky. If gasket thickness is not important then I just use a product called THE RIGHT STUFF instead of a gasket ( far superior to silicone). In many cases it is more reliable than a gasket such as some of the ford valve cover gaskets.

Mmmmm That used to be our standard repair technique when drivers brought their trailers into the shop with light faults and they had to get going. we used a tad more force behind our strikes though.

@UthredThat looks OEM. When you install the barrel the tab on the diaphragm should line up with the locating spot on the carb housing and the drain hole in the barrel should be at the six o'clock position. If required rotate the diaphragm on the barrel until alll lines up properly. The spring goes into the barrel and then the cover goes on. it should not be difficult. If need be get a small can of of PERMATEX HIGH TACK gasket spray (most auto parts sources carry it and is non-hardening and easily removable if needed ) and carefully spray a thin coat in the groove on the housing. Let it get tacky then set the diaphragm in place insert the spring into the barrel and then the cover.

After you pull the nail gently probe the hole to see how deep it goes and try to see if you can feel or maybe see any exposed cord material. if you feel fully confident that the tire has not been compromised in any way fill the hole with some vulcanizing compound to seal it from providing further entry of any foreign material. If you have any doubt as to the integrity of the tire play it safe and replace it.

@UthredI suggest you post a picture of the diaphram and the barrel as the OEM one does not have a slotted grove as per say. It uses two white nylon looking rings and a stainless lipped sleeve to hold them in place. The OEM diaphragm sits between the two white rings. There is an aftermarket diaphragm which eliminates the two white rings by cutting them out and sits in the resulting groove between the lip of the stainless sleeve and the body of the plastic barrel. These aftermarket diaphragms have a thick bead around the center hole and go on similar to mounting a tubeless tire on a rim. If you try to use the OEM type diaphram without the white rings it will not stay in place.

Check and clean all your grounds as well and check the fuse holders in the fuse box unless it has been updated it still uses the glass fuses and the clips get corroded and weak. This results in loose fuses with poor contact between the fuses and the retaining clips. There is also a master fuse between the left side of the battery and the starting solenoid. this fuse uses a replaceable leaf type fuse and there may be some spare leafs in the holder of this fuse make sure it is still good with clean and secure connections. Next you may want to disconnect inspect and clean all the connectors to the igniter unit as well as the contacts on the igniter unit itself. Abad connection here could effect the tach.

Don't be surprised if with the whole can of seafoam in the fuel it runs a little off and maybe smokes some when you take it for a run the next day. This is normal but once you run the tank close to empty and refill with fresh fuel it will clear up. I also suggest when you do run out that first tank full, delay your shifts and keep your RPMS to the high side I found this seems to help the cleaning process. I have also found the symptoms you mentioned are not uncommon with these bikes after sitting for a while it may not hurt to take the air cleaner off and spray the throat and slides with some seafoam as well and if possible manually reach down and carefully slide the barrels to make sure they are not sticking.

Not sure but I was under the understanding one of the reasons for lane splitting in California was to accommodate air cooled bikes which could overheat if trapped in stop and go traffic.

Your starting to sound like my Mrs..

When you heated the bolt did you completely cool it down before attempting to turn it or did you make the mistake of trying to to turn it while it was hot. NEVER turn a bolt while it is hot specially red hot as it is too soft and it will twist. The same can happen if you let the bolt cool slowly the idea is to heat and totally and quickly cool it down. the sudden cooling hardens and shrinks the bolt. Maybe I should have been more clear in my previously posted suggestions.

Trust me inexperience does not necessarily hold the monopoly on overthinking. Sometimes experience because you know what can go wrong can have you humming and hawing more so than a rookie.

Problem is when it comes to trying to influence your kids in one direction there is a whole twisted other world and media influencing your kids in another direction and you tend to be out numbered.

Really seems like a down to earth guy.

Sooo Bike starts in gear, Cruise works. If we see a riderless bike go by, I guess we can assume you forgot to get on

@Marcarlwon't be say'n anymore than he has on account of self preservation. You just gonna has ta read tween da lines.

So it likely is an areation line this is to assist removal of air pockets in the cooling system. The system holds about 14 PSI and though that hose may look flimsy it is still capable of carrying the pressure within the cooling system. If you plan on still using that hose I would replace the electrical tape with splicing tape also known as magic tape. this is a highly stretchy tape and is self vulcanizing. stretch it to about half its width while wrapping it. then cover with friction tape also known as hockey stick tape to protect and reinforce it.

They say you learn more from your mistakes then your successes. All I will say is @Marcarlhas had quite a learning curve

I would do as Marcarl stated with one exception I would avoid use of an impact gun using it as a last resort only. in my field as a heavy duty mechanic, I have seen far too many torx heads round out or round off because of the way an impact gun works. Use a hand tool and steady pressure is the the safest way using a longer handle if needed the bit may break but at least you won't round out the head. you can also try heating the head of the bolt (red if possible) then immediately and quickly quench the head with cold water repeat a couple of times then again attempt to back the screw out. Failing that use a hand impact driver such as https://www.grainger.ca/en/product/p/KDT1140D?gclid=Cj0KCQjwk4yGBhDQARIsACGfAetK2Sr16P1iz7MT8c9hl2d_b2ZpA_ZnABnq1GAe3wi5TAWt72ihl-MaAgg9EALw_wcB&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=Cj0KCQjwk4yGBhDQARIsACGfAetK2Sr16P1iz7MT8c9hl2d_b2ZpA_ZnABnq1GAe3wi5TAWt72ihl-MaAgg9EALw_wcB:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!3645!3!303422060307!!!g!296274828640! to try to remove the screw this tool twists as you wack the end with a hammer while twisting the tool in the proper direction which will supply both inward pressure and twist at the same time. If all this fails then try an impact gun as a last resort. by this time the screw may even have given in a bit and become a bit more cooperative.

Really not sure what it is since it was not used on the MK2 86 - 93. Where does the other end go? If tied into the cooling system it could be an aireation hose to allow trapped air to escape the cooling system or if going to the bottom of the air cleaner it could be a crankcase ventilation line. Since only electrical tape was used I would probably rule out it being involved with the cooling system. Someone with a MK1 83-85 may have a better idea.

here are some interesting options:

Fast clicking when you first turn the key on is normal. once the float bowls in the carb's are filled to there proper level the clicking should either stop or drop to an occasional click. If my bike has sat for a long spell like over winter I often wait for the clicking to stop or drop off before starting the bike. If the clicking continues for too long then you may have an issue such as fuel line leak. needle valve and/or float stuck in open position or low fuel tank. You say you have one bar left but if the shut off is in normal run position versus being in the reserve position the fuel could be low enough in the tank for the pump to suck air instead of fuel and thus continue running.

If that stated limit is per eye than you should be OK. provided they don't bend over under side pull tension. Some Aluminum alloys do not normally like to get bent as a rule.