saddlebum

Not sure if this was already mentioned earlier or not but Don't forget to check the removable plug boots. Many have replaced TDI's and coils only to find the plug boots were faulty. If you look close you can see that the internal parts of the OEM plug boots can be removed, inspected and cleaned on the 1st and 2nd gens. They can get corroded inside which cause them to fail.

Kind of brings you back to those multiple choice questions were the old saying is the first guess is usually the right guess. Plus we all got to put our heads together and hone our diagnostic skills. Lastly glad you found the issue.

I always blame my spelling or grammar errors on a defective keyboard.

Well at least you got out and summers not over yet.

Is the bike handling properly now?

When did you go back to a Harley. Thought you had a 3rd gen

That,s great news hopefully the rest of the summer will be a breeze..........in your hair

You do have a valid point but in my remarks, I (A) am taking the assumption that these items have already been checked and (B) the steps I am suggesting are done with the engine shut off which takes any electrical issues out of the equation and concentrates on the mechanical side of things.

Ok so you say the wheel turns in neutral. When it turns does it feel relatively smooth with no odd noises. If so than I would say the final drive. drive shaft, u-joints and rest of parts in the parts breakdown Marcal posted are OK. With it in gear can you still turn the wheel with the clutch pulled in? from your description I am thinking you cannot, so my next move would be to check clutch operation. Start by making sure there is no air in the system. Then check to see if the master is actually functioning properly. It could be bypassing internally and not applying pressure to the slave. Check to see if you are loosing clutch fluid. The slave could be leaking internally and loosing fluid. Drain engine oil into a clean container. Does the oil look normal or is there metal in the oil? Remove the clutch cover so you can observe the clutch while actuating the clutch lever. you should see movement between the discs. If not then you will have to see why. Remove the Clutch. with the clutch removed and transmission in gear does the wheel now turn or is it still locked up. If still locked up you may have to pull engine and get into the transmission to see what is going on. Keep in mind this is all couch technique diagnostics If I had the bike in front of me I might take a different approach.

the rear brake is were I would start as well specially since it only locks when you pull the clutch in but will turn when you release the clutch and apply power. Generally if it locks up due to a drive line or transmission failure it stays locked up and whether the clutch is in or out would not make a difference.

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Cannot tell by pic which way oil seal was facing. The part in pic one is one of two pieces making up the water pump seal, the wide flange towards the pumps impeller. the second part of the W/P seal sits between the impeller and the flange of this part. The lip on the oil seal should be facing the engine and away from the water pump. This is to keep oil from leaking out through the weep hole.

The JIS japanese version of the philips screwdriver made by Vessel and available through Amazon is the best screw driver I found for the screws on these bikes the flute tapers and angles between the japanese (JIS) screws and the philips differ slightly and is why a normal philips screwvdriver will cam out so easily. The (JIS) even works better on the philips screws than the philps screw driver does. Thier grey handled impacta line is great for breaking loose tight screws without rounding them out. FROM AMAZON CANADA. https://www.amazon.ca/Vessel-Megadora-2x100-Screwdriver-930-2-100/dp/B000W9KWF2/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=vessel+jis+screwdriver&qid=1624197256&sr=8-8 https://www.amazon.ca/s?k=vessel+JIS+screwdrivers&ref=nb_sb_noss ------------------------------------------------------ FROM AMAZON USA. https://www.amazon.com/Vessel-Megadora-2x100-Screwdriver-930-2-100/dp/B000W9KWF2/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=Vessel+JIS+screwdrivers&qid=1624197497&sr=8-5 https://www.amazon.com/Vessel-Megadora-Impacta-P2x100-Screwdriver/dp/B003BI8HHQ/ref=sr_1_16?dchild=1&keywords=Vessel+JIS+screwdrivers&qid=1624197633&sr=8-16

Is there a reward. I am not currantly working and could use the bounty money. Nothing personal @videoarizona

Location has an effect as well. In Ontario there is a 2 Km difference between my GPS and my speedometer. In Nova scotia they read identical.

He is talking about the bolt that holds the line to master cylinder. This type of through fitting is often reffered to as a banjo fitting and the bolt therefore referred to as a banjo bolt.

As long as it feels like it won't quit Take it for a good run You might be pleasantly surprised. start by circling the block a few times and if it is acceptable go for a good run. My bike acts up every spring and then clears up after a good run and then she is good for the rest of the season

Not entirely true depending on the quality of the plug it is better to plug and seal the hole than let water and debris enter the whole specially if salt is involved as the cords are more inclined to fail from rot or corrosion then having a few strands severed. As a person who involved in fleet maintenance and has installed several hundred plugs In 50 years of dealing with tires, I can honestly say it depends on the plug. I always use the Techcan plugs and have never had a failure despite not patching on the inside. The prep tool for these is not a reamer but actually spreads an opening in the cord for the plug. The supplier I got my tire supplies from demonstrated them by jamming them in the side wall of his steer tire (a definite no no but did prove his point. by the time he wore the tires out he had 250 plugs in it. I even have doubled up the plugs in large holes and they never had one fail running the tires out to the end of their usefull life. Now having said all that I would not use a plug or a patch alone on a motorcycle if possible. Experience has taught me it is always best to do both. if it is a straight in hole I would use a one piece plug patch. but if the hole is on an angle I would plug 1st then buff and patch the inside.

Its always a comfort knowing there is good rubber on the bike.

After all that work you did on the 1st gen now your gonna step down to a 2nd gen and you call that going one better. All kidding aside thats a nice looking scoot.

Home depot sells a carbon fiber pad that plumbers use to prevent heating stuff that does not want to be heated (except your fingers your on your own there). It has been a life saver for me on many occasions

I hate when that happens. I will check and see if I have one from an engine I stripped. Not sure if I salvaged that part or not as it was years ago but I shall look. If I do its yours for the cost of shipping.

I hate when that happens. I will check and see if I have one from an engine I stripped. Not sure if I salvaged that part or not as it was years ago but I shall look. If I do its yours for the cost of shipping.

Not without actually being in front or even better beside the bike so I can see what is actually going on.

This very true. I have had helmets were the buffeting varied from helmet to helmet. One was so severe that I had a sore neck and returned the Helmet the next day (fortunately it was one of those bike shops that would refund your helmet if not satisfied and not damaged or marked ) and I have helmets that resulted in no buffeting at all. All while riding with a cut down windshield.