saddlebum

@RDawsonis correct a relay is not a circuit breaker. The amp rating on a relay only indicates the highest load a relay can carry not the protection given to the circuit, therefore it does not matter how thin the wire is as long as the wire and fuse or breaker are the correct size for the load on the circuit. Any size relay can be used as long as the amp capacity of the relay is larger than the circuit load. So if the circuit load is designed and fused for 20 amps any relay rated larger than twenty amps is OK to use whether it be a 30 amp Relay or 75 amp Relay. Going to a heavier gauge wire and corresponding fuse is only required if the load on the circuit is more than what the existing size of wire and fuse combination in the circuit is able to carry

I have posted this before but will again since it may be useful to some. It lists ethanol free gasoline locations. https://www.pure-gas.org/about https://www.pure-gas.org/chart Interesting FAQ from the above website; Can I test gas myself to see if it contains ethanol? Yes, and it's quite easy to do. Inexpensive fuel-testing kits are widely available, or you can just do it yourself: Pour a small amount of water into a narrow jar (an olive jar works great) and mark the water level with a Sharpie. Add the fuel to around a 10:1 fuel:water ratio. Shake well, let settle for a few minutes. See if the water level has risen above the mark. If it has risen, it has combined with ethanol from the fuel.

I have progressives but still make minor adjustments on the class to fine tune it to were I want it, take air out on rough roads and add a little on smooth roads and hard surface twists. Do I have a sweet spot ? Can't say as I have found it yet. On the other had we don't have a lot of challenging twisties here and often the ones that are often have fine gravel or sand so you don't often push the limit.

Very true. As a matter of fact most fuel bottles or containers have a max fill line on them for this very reason.

Some interesting links to check out SPARE FUEL CONTAINER IDEAS https://www.giantloopmoto.com/product/gas-bag-fuel-safe-bladder/ https://desertfox.bike/desert-fox-5l-fuel-cell/ https://www.reda.co/reda-gas-can https://adventuremotorcycle.com/gear/motorcycle-auxiliary-fuel-tanks https://www.nadaguides.com/Motorcycles/shopping-guides/how-to-carry-extra-fuel-on-a-motorcycle

With my 1st Gen 89 MK2 I actually went back to a PIAA hi output Halogen bulb after trying three different LED's. Although the LED was brighter I found it lacked projection, proper focus and definition of road objects with 90% of the light cast being directly in front allowing for much less reaction time. It is my belief that the reflector and lens design is not well suited to the proper focusing of the LED bulb. On the other hand if you can replace the entire headlight with a self contained LED sealed beam as you would be able too with the MK1 83-85 and other bikes that use a sealed beam or were the headlight can be replace with a complete sealed beam unit, it would be very effective since the LED Lens and reflector are designed to work together. PIAA extreme white halogen https://www.piaa.com/store/p/1003-H4-9003-Xtreme-White-Hybrid-Twin-Pack-Halogen-Bulbs.aspx some examples of sealed beam LED headlights. https://www.grote.com/white-light/forward-lighting/led-sealed-beam-headlights/ On the other hand recently some have tried the LED by super bright and have stated very satisfactory results. Here is the link https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/motorcycle-high-beam-and-low-beam-headlight-bulb/motorcycle-h4-led-fanless-headlight-conversion-kit-with-compact-heat-sink-2000-lumens/3930/8566/?make=105&model=3743&scc_id=1940&year=2009 Then others have gone to HID, but some have experienced issues such as stater overload or dropping out when you hit the starter, though the later can be overcome with a slight wiring modifications.

The one behind it.

Not even the perfect MC that never wipes out, breaks down or runs out of gas?

I agree loose connections create resistance. Resistance creates heat. Heat creates more resistance which creates more heat which eventually reaches a point where plastic connectors melts and electrical connections or connected components fail completely. International trucks were notorious for having ignition switch fires for this very reason. Also when installing a relay switch check the load/amp rating of the relay. Just because it is a relay switch does not guaranty it won't overheat, It must be rated high enough to carry the load put upon it. This goes for the load carrying wires and terminals as well. If you do not increase the size of the wire to match the load placed upon it, it will overheat as well.

They way you describe the issue (and I do not mean to sound like a skeptic here ) but let me ask two questions. ! does this happen almost immediately upon riding in the rain or hitting a big puddle and does the issue clear up by itself after things dry up. I ask this because if the answer is yes to both questions I tend to doubt its water entering the fuel tank. Whether the cause is a faulty cap or water drawn in through the vent line the issue would not pop up immediately, nor would it go away just because it dried up outside because it takes time for enough water to enter the tank then trickle down through the gas to the bottom and then fill the bottom of the tank to the point were it can be picked up by the pickup tube. Then once it accumulates to the point were does become a problem it would not just go away when things dry up, once enough water is in the tank to cause a problem it is there to stay and should it accumulate in the fuel bowls to were the bike quits or will not start the would not start again until you have drained the fuel bowls and tank of the accumulated water. There fore Like steamer I would look towards and electrical issue. Also Steamers suggestion ( which is a good one ) of draining fuel out of the fuel hose at the tank valve to check for water also needs to gain a certain level before it will come out. Try draining from the carbs as well to see if water is in the float bowl. Both are best down after the bike has sat for a bit to allow the water and gas to separate. You can also try acquiring some water detection paste. smear a bit on a stiff but flexible makeshift dip stick and reach into the bottom of the fuel tank through the filler. The paste usually green will turn a purplish pink if it contacts any water. Next time the bike quits in the rain spray and wash down your coils, plugs and plug wires with a penetrating oil such as WD40 or equivalent and see if the bike restarts. You can also try wetting the bike electrical system down with a spray bottle of water a spot at a time to see if it causes an issue Or hose the whole bike down really well in the dark and then watch for arching or as we mechanics say look for Christmas lights. Water will often create carbon tracts on the external surfaces of high voltage parts of the ignition system. If you nothing shows up remove all your plug wires and apply a generous amount of dielectric grease inside the boots and sockets and reassemble. you could take it one step further and replace the plugs and wires while doing this Another source of rain induced cutting out I have found on many bike mostly Harley's, Is the ignition switch. Over time they develop a green powder in the switch and/or connectors. every time this powder ( we call Fretting ) gets wet it shorts out the electrical system enough to create an issue but not enough to blow a fuse. Try flushing the switch and connectors with electrical cleaner and a small brush were you can, With a sealed ignition switch stick the straw into the key hole and flush well alternating between spraying and turning the switch back and forth with the key. Follow up with a spray such as ACF50 or equivalent and saturate the ignition switch well. While your at it go over all your connections clean and apply dielectric grease to your connections.

Yup --some of it still is Plus all the craziness. Sadly some of our best members have moved on to the next life and are forever missed but I can't help to think that once in awhile they look down on us and still have a chuckle or two.

That was a very interesting and well made video. it really demonstrates the mechanic's behind how a motorcycle transmission works in a simple understandable format. Over my years as a mechanic I have seen some training videos that do more to confuse a new apprentice than educate them.

Have had the pleasure of meeting and sharing good times with Puc and Tips on several occasions. Great folks with a great sense of humor.

Interesting point. Besides now-a-days they have some very effective LED road flares, saves from using up the bikes battery or convenient if the bikes battery is already Dead. https://www.amazon.ca/s?k=LED+road+flares

You have to watch anytime you overfill an engine. It may help those components which are lubricated by splash but overfilling can cause whipping or foaming of the oil, specially were the large end of the connecting rod barely rides just above the surface of the oils max level. When you over fill and the oil gets whipped into a foam you actually loose oil pressure and proper lubrication to those components that are pressure fed, because the air in the foamed up oil not only reduces pressure in the gallerias but causes the oil to have less body hence less lubricating quality. It also can cause air cavitation in the oil pump itself, resulting in premature pump wear and eventual pump failure. This is why there is a max oil level on any oil level indicator, be it stick or site glass. You may be comforting yourself by quieting down the noisy parts that are splash lubricated but you are trading off proper lubrication to pressure fed parts for this false sense of piece of mind.

Maybe @Freebird can add this to the tech library.

Hey @ReinyRooster. I sent you a PM

I would be rewiring to a constant live/Bat point.

Not sure but I think this is round three for the @ReinyRooster. he keeps trying to break away but is fast. learning he can't stay away.

Thats unfortunate to hear it was only 3 weeks ago or so that we had been PM'ing back and forth. he was going to be coming east in a couple weeks and wanted to hook up with Marcarl and myself for a visit on his way through. and then all of a sudden nothing. I hope all is OK with him.

Maybe you could try fabricating some type of ram air snorkel that would direct cool air over your legs or past the side of the engine to redirect the hot air.

Noting a change whether good or bad but appearing to be isolated to a certain part or area of the bike is always a good thing. Now at least you have some idea were to concentrate your efforts in rooting out the negative issues. One thing I did not mention and should have is the fact that depending on how long any moisture may have sat in the fuel bowl you may also have some corrosion (yes contrary to what some believe aluminum does corrode ) bits can fake off and clog orifices etc. I have a friend with a Harley that cuts out in the rain on him but every time he comes to me to check out the issue the bike is on its best behavior even when I try spot spraying the suspect areas or hosing it down completely and repeating the process in the dark to try and spot any electrical arching, Its like its deliberately trying to make a liar out of him. In the end I just pulled apart his entire electrical system, primary and secondary plus charging system cleaned and dielectric greased everything. Now we just sit back and wait for his next ride in the rain.

3m abrasive pads or extra fine steel wool. If using steel wool make sure you rid the cylinder of all debris. Maybe follow up with brake clean and an abrasive or scotch brite pad. You don't want any steel reside left behind because steel an aluminum can chemical react to each other. you can also follow up with ultra fine crocus cloth. and brake clean.

A big part of it is the gunge that builds up in the carbs. A substance that separates from standing gas as the vaporous components of the gas slowly evaporate and mix with moisture from condensation forming a jell like substance that over time crystalizes. The B12 or similar products dissolves this gunge and it then gets flushed out as fresh gas passes through the carb. I assume but could be wrong but this gunge may be a crude form of paraffin, a real common issue with diesels and is why you often hear of summer fuel and winter fuel were big rigs are concerned. In winter this stuff can jell in a heartbeat and bung up the entire fuel system in sub freezing temperature.