saddlebum

They do look nice.

I also discovered by accident that a GEN 1/MK1 seat put on a GEN1/MK2 also lowers you about 1-1/2'' and its just a straight drop on. No modifications needed. Only thing is the passenger part of the seat is smaller than the MK2 I used the space to slip in a Harley handle bar pouch.

Glad most of your trip was enjoyable.

Raggy does have a point. With those knees of yours, your not likely to out run your hunting partner if the bear gains the upper hand and attacks

The connectors at the ignition module are not weather sealed and if there is any green fretting in those connectors any moisture getting in and mixing with that green fretting material will wreak havoc with you ignition as it creates a path for electrical crossover. You also have a strong argument for water in the fuel as you stated it is not uncommon for fuel stations to get water in their holding tanks after a heavy rain and your timing certainly suggests strong possibility of getting bad fuel. Back fire can also be the result of unburnt fuel from a misfiring cylinder being ignited in the exhaust system by the hot exhaust stream of a firing cylinder.

My wife tried those a few years ago after getting poison ivy over half her body and so bad that she had to get shots and cortisone cream. They did not work at all for her.

I used the Barnett carbon fiber clutch kit with pressure plate about 6 years ago and its still working great. Carbon fiber is recommended if you do a lot of slip clutching like crawling through a parking lot at less than walking speed and great for trailer pulling without clutch slipping.

Most hardware, automotive or farmers hardware suppliers have assortment bins from which you should be able to find what you need.

That sounds more like a hydraulic issue than a slipping clutch. Check your clutch fluid level and try flushing and bleeding your clutch system. Don't forget to finish off by cracking the bolt which holds the line to the master open while maintaining pressure on the clutch lever. Make sure to tighten bolt before lever bottoms out. repeat until only air free fluid escapes. NOTE: use plenty of covering under and around the area of the master to avoid getting fluid on stuff you don't want damaged. I usually wrap a rag around the bolt and wrench and listen for air rather than watch as fluid with air in it makes a distinct sound, something like forcing saliva between the tip of your tongue and the roof of your mouth, were clean fluid escaping makes no sound.

Stared at it woefully. Between a major cellulitis infection that resulted in some flesh removal from my leg and time spent 1st on two portable IV units. Then from that I went on to what they call negative pressure wound therapy which I call attaching a small portable shop vac to my leg then on to cataract surgery in one eye with the other eye due to be done the end of this month I got one ride in, in June. BTW I would post pictures of the excavation site but I would not want half the membership to recycle their dinner on to their keyboard. Yes they let me take pictures as they worked. It was interesting to watch.

@skydoc_17How much difference is there between adding the shim kit to the slider needle versus relocating the C-clip to the next groove on the needle?

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Just found some additional interesting info on lighting https://brightsource.ca/Compliant Lighting Info CANADA 062918.pdf An interesting point in the document was this one {{ It is unlawful to use LED or HID bulbs in a headlamp that originally came with Halogen bulbs }} check out pages 3,4 & 5. and this HEAD LIGHT BRIGHTNESS REG.pdf

seems a common issue with 2nd gens switch to 1st gen ..............

Pinch the key in a vise with some flat bar on both sides to avoid vise jaw marks and you might salvage it and soak the lock in penetrating oil for a few days.

Yup they are junk! I will second Carl's suggestion to check out the source he posted a link to for the diaphragms. I have purchased from them on several occasions and am currently running their diaphragms in my present bike. another popular source is https://www.siriusconinc.com/search_result.php?search=search&make=2&model=xvz1300&part=1&partno=&x=36&y=11 The only thing is I believe they do not supply the slider but if you can come up with some good used sliders and need diaphragms these are good sources.

lumvmy40 is correct on all accounts although you should have no issue detecting a slipping clutch. One thing with these V4's to keep in mind they run so well even on three cylinders that you don't notice sometimes that one cylinder is not firing until you try pulling up a grade in around the 2000 rpm range or find yourself down shifting on a hard pull or uphill grade sooner than you normally would. Though the Gen 2 is not as a quick as the Gen 1 specially the MK1 (83-85) they still are no slouch for a big bike with a stock engine. Check and make sure its firing on all four ( it may be something as simple as a bad plug ). Simplest place to start is to check and make sure you have spark on all four cylinders and if you do try a new set of plugs ( even a set of new plugs can sometimes have a faulty one ). f the bike had been sitting I would drain all the fuel including the carbs, replace with fresh gas and half a can of Seafoam to a full tank and take it for a good run keeping my rpms closer to the upper rpm range Who knows when the bike last had a valve set, it may be overdue which leaves the chance that there is not enough valve clearance which can compromise your compression values because if the valves are too tight they may not fully seat or have a longer open time than they should. So going over your valve settings is always a good idea. Carb issues is another thing to consider. whether it has had ethanol free gas or not crud can still build up in carb if it has been sitting. as the gas ages it begins to separate as volatile vapors evaporate from the gas. Sliders may become sticky and diaphragms may get old and brittle or just develop pin holes this were removing the diaphragms and sliders to inspect them is a good idea and while they are out give the carb a good flushing with a quality carb cleaner. Note as good as seafoam is as an additive, as a cold cleaning spray it is not as good as some of the more carb cleaning sprays. Even though it may have always used ethanol free gas keep in mind all gas still contains a small degree of moisture. As well depending on how often the bike has sat for long stretches there is condensation within the tank to consider. The lower the fuel level in the tank the more free surface area within the tank the more condensation/moisture accumulates in the tank. If the bike is never ridden with the valve in the reserve position this can allow for a nice collection of water to develop in the tank. ( I ride with the bike in reserve at all times except when on long road trips so that gas is always picked up from the lowest point in the tank to avoid accumulation of contaminates in the lower section of the tank ).

Make sure you take the kitty out of the litter before you use it especially if it's a white kitty

Or -- if the squelch is turned all the way down the slightest CB signal even if it is only a silent carrier wave will cause the radio to cut out since CB takes priority The higher you set your squelch the stronger the CB signal needs to be to over ride your radio or just turn the CB off.

Or you can remove the lower screw on the middle gear cover. Its the one with the copper washer.

Here is a link to the canadian standard as you can see it is not actually clear cut as aiming angle appears to be part of the factor. Check out pages 83 and 84 for the charts re Motorcycles. I imagine the US standard is much similar. Lamps, Reflective Devices, and Associated Equipment - 108_tsd_rev_5r.pdf

Here @BlueSkyis my preference. https://www.piaa.com/store/p/159-H4-XTreme-White-Plus-Single-Halogen-Bulb.aspx The silver-star ultra is a good second choice and easier to find. I have tried a couple LED Lights but found that though they are brighter the projection and contrast is poor. I want to see objects in time to stop not just right in front of me as I am about to hit it. Some have found LEDS that do seem to focus but my advice is if you want to go LED replace the whole headlight with a quality LED sealed beam.

According to the wiring schematics that is what it is and if as @sleepy2 states finding one is not easy, I do not see if one had the proper pin-out diagram why an adapter cord could not be made up to make an aftermarket CD changer work. Also found this: Clarion 6 CD Changer Options full article.pdf

And here I thought you only specialized in selling old oil