saddlebum

You forgot the part were after a full day of fishing they open the fridge door to show you a fish from the local market and proceed to tell you how it did not cost them a whole day and a tank or two of fuel as you stand there empty handed cause the fish were not biting.

I have also cut pieces of copper or stainless wire and melted them into the ABS across the cracks after grooving them out to act as a form of rebar. Has also been very effective.

If you working it right being told to go fishing is desirable vs being allowed. Being told can't come back on you were as being allowed could down the road in the form of "yes but you really didn't have to go! Did you?".

Though I am a fan of the PIAA bulbs I have used the Sylvania Ultra with no issue as have many on this site. Touching the glass with your fingers during install can cause any halogen bulb to burn out (not sure why) but if for some reason the glass was touched it should be well cleaned with alcohol. A faulty charging system that is spiking the voltage can also cause a filament to burn out or if it was dropped before install. Then again you may just have picked up a defective bulb.

The hose goes on cyl #1 but you often see it on #2 because #2 is often mistaken as #1 simply because it is the left front cyl. when in fact the left rear is #1 while the left front is actually #2. Re: the boots there are only 2 part numbers 26H-13586-00-00 and 26H-13596-00-00. The bike uses two of each. A1-2, A2-1, and A3-1 are more than likely mold or batch numbers and meaningless to us unless there was a recall on a certain batch related to some sort of defect in that particular batch

Considering they are Japanese bikes. Would that not be good thing?

Plastex also sold under the name of plastifix Sand all the pieces and bevel all the edges of all the loose pieces on a 45. If you don't want to repaint bevel one side only stopping at the edge of the paint. Use a tear drop carbide cutter on a dremel to gouge out the remaining cracks stop when you just start to see the inside edge of the primer or paint. Use aluminum duct tape on the out side to hold all the pieces together and seal the cracks. Clear packing tape works well to but the aluminum tape wont stretch. Aluminum tape comes in a variety of thickness's try for 3.5 to 4 thou if you can. Now start filling the v-grooves with the plastex/plastifix . Start by wetting the groove first with the liquid and then use one of the methods desribed to fill the groove (that is you can use the stitch method using the dropper needle or alternately wetting then sprinkling the powder into the groove. Don't worry about proportions just don't go too dry or too wet to were you are washing away the powder. Once the groove is filled higher than flush sand the entire surrounding area. Cut a piece of fiberglass cloth, fiberglass drywall tape or aluminum house screen to cover the repair area. wet down the area with the solvent and build up a thin bed Lay in the patch material and embed it into the still soft bed of filler. Immediately start building up another bed on top of the reinforcing material. If you wish to repaint the area: After the inside has cured lightly groove out the cracks from the out side and sand away some of the paint along side the cracks fill the cracks and when cured enough, sand to a smooth finish. continue filling and sanding until you have a flawless surface (this stuff will sand baby butt smooth so no need to use spot putty just add and sand until perfect) Spray with and adhesion promoter for plastic than prime and paint.

Hate when that happens. You can try cleaning the hole out with brake clean and air pressure. Drop a tiny amount of JB Weld aluminum epoxy into the hole. Coat a slightly too long bolt with light grease or heavy oil and thread bolt in until it just about bottoms out after the epoxy has cured back the bolt out. wait at least 24 hours before reassembling. 50/50 chance it will work but have had good luck with this when I came across similar situations were someone ran in too long a bolt (usually happens with plastic rad tanks or two piece aluminum valve covers).

Are the brake lights staying on or not working at all. If they are staying on check the amount of sloppiness in the lever pivot. I drilled and re-bushed mine. If they are not coming on check the switch and make sure its clean and not sticking in. The switch is pretty basic and there really is not much that can go wrong with them short of sticking or getting dirty. Also check it for proper adjustment.

Length and thread pitch would be the main concerns. Too long could bottom out in a blind hole, too short can tear threads. Also make sure there is no oil or other fluid in blind holes. The hydraulic pressure of tightening a bolt can crack even cast iron blocks.

I agree with the d-linking the front brakes. Back when I first got my venture around 2006 the linked brake almost did me in when the front wheel locked on me trying to stop on a gravel and sand covered paved intersection while attempting to slow down with rear brake only. Two gentle attempts at using only rear brake caused my front wheel to slide out sideways and almost dropping the bike. I aborted a third attempt as it would only bring me to a stop in the middle of the intersection so I tucked my tongue back into my cheek, rolled hard on the throttle and shot the intersection. For the life of me I could not understand why my front wheel locked up while applying rear brake. Getting home I checked on the brake system and discovered the concept of linked brakes and decided one way or the other this had to go. I have since came to the conclusion that though this linked brake setup may be great for straight line stops on paved highways they are dangerous on corners were there is often loose gravel and probably why so many 1st gens have gone down in the corners.

Totally second the suggestion. For what boils down to $1.00 a month for what this site has to offer in so many ways is priceless.

Those Flat blade type connectors are notorious for loosing their tension and becoming loose. When they do they start to get hot which loosens them more and results in more heat. All this adds too poor connections and high resistance and arcing all creating more heat again. Over time as this cycle continues and intensifies things get to the pint were your currently at. I have seen dash fires cause by this cycle. You can buy what is referred to as a pigtail which is the connector complete with wire leads so you just have to splice it in place of the fried one. The one for the relay is commonly used in thousands of vehicles so will be easy to find just make sure it comes with the same or heavier gauge wire as the original. I would also replace the relay it may test OK but the internal points could be pitted or overheated make sure the amp rating of the relay is the same or higher. The pink one may be a little harder to find but it is a common configuration and so it should still be available you just may have to search on line by image.

For the class system to only come on with key in ACC is normal. I would take some soapy water and spray the entire system. Leaks could come from the lines or a failing solenoid valve as well as the air bag or front fork seals. The collars around the top of the front forks to which the air lines connect, have simple o-rings that may have dried out and failed. to replace the o-rings you need only slide the forks out enough to allow the collars to slip of the top end of the forks, replace the o-rings and slide it all back together.

You might want to check and see if your oil level is not too high. the air cleaner is dirty or the crankcase breather tube is not plugged (this is the small hose goes from the engine to the bottom of the air cleaner housing. Hopefully it is not a sign of bad oil control rings on the pistons.

Not normally

Even though the ventures are top heavy and mostly noticeable at crawl speeds you soon learn how to use your body to counter balance EG: don't lean with the bike as much as you would with a bike that has a lower center of gravity but let the bike lean under you as you would a tall MX bike. You'll figure it out quick enough. The other time you will notice it is standing still in which case if its going over Get out of the way. If your tall you can try and slow it down but no point in trying to stop it completely.

No Problem! Also check out the tech section here on the forum.

Usually a heaping table spoon to a cup of water is the proportion. using this as a guide line mix up a couple quarts or a gallon and soak down everything. Let it sit a while to neutralize the acid but rinse before it fully dries.

Its not a matter of how much juice, its how much vapor that juice no matter how little juice remains, creates. That vapor is explosive and can be set off by the smallest spark or arc. The lower the fluid level in the battery the more likely it is to boil and give of gas.

I agree with djh3 and since the tread looks OK I would run them to max PSI stated on the tires side wall this will but more wear to the center of the tire. Just be careful and get a proper feel for the tires handling, in corners especially.

Or dirty contacts in the handle bar switch which is easy to clean.

Seeing as how I will be spending some time this afternoon with " He who shall not be named ", I shall refrain from any further comment.

I am not as well versed on the second gens as I am on the 1st gens but these links and PDF,s should help some. https://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/oemparts/a/yam/500454acf8700209bc792a9f/electrical-2 12413245_RSVserviceManual-2012.pdf 99-09 Yamaha Royal Star Venture electrical info.pdf 99-09 Yamaha Royal Star Venture schematic.pdf 99-09 Yamaha Royal Star Venture Simplified Circuit Diagram Rev B.pdf 99-09 Yamaha Royal Star Venture Wiring Diagram Rev B.pdf