saddlebum

Check the connectors at the ignition module (CDI). I almost replaced mine for the same same symptoms. No spark on one cylinder. As I was removing it I noticed the build up of green and white crap in the connector and on the terminals. I cleaned all the terminals with slivers of fine emery cloth and electrical terminal cleaner followed with a second cleaning of ACF 50 then gave it a good saturation of ACF 50, then reinserted all the connectors. that was three years ago and the bike has run like a dream ever since.

Garages are self full filling. They get filled full all on their own.

It is not uncommon for something like this to take place in these bikes if they have sat for a while. Sometimes they take a little help to get started and once you do try keeping the RPMS up for a while until the bike warms up. once it warms up ride up and down the street for a bit in 1st gear and keep the RPMS well up. Or if the gas is old drain the carbs into a glass container, this way you can check for water in the fuel. If possible after letting the bike sit undisturbed over night, drain the fuel tank as well with shut off set at the reserve setting. Drain the 1st bit into a glass container so you can again check for water. In any case if the fuel is old replace it and the fuel filter. If this does not work, Start with the simple things. Make sure it has spark. If you have a compression gauge check compression while you have the plugs out. If compression is bad on any cylinder do a cylinder leak down test to pin point where the cylinder is losing compression. It may also be a good idea to check your valve settings. Too tight may prevent a valve from fully seating fully as the engine heats up and an overly excessive gap could indicate a sticky or damaged valve, such as a bent valve stem or debris between valve and seat. Make sure the fuel cock is open. Check the fuses if it still has the old glass ones its possible the fuse holders have corroded and weakened with age sometimes the fingers even get so weak they just break away. Take the top off the air cleaner and trickle a bit of gas in each barrel to see if it will then fire up. If not or if there was no spark, Go over your electrical connections, specially the ones going to the ignition module regulator and stater. Check for any green or white powdery looking coating on or bridging the terminals and clean with a good electrical cleaner (ACF50 is my preference as it does a great job of cleaning and protecting ). If it does, look into your fuel system make sure fuel is getting to the carbs you can open the fuel bowl drains and turn the key on. You should hear a clicking noise indicating the fuel pump is running and eventually fuel should run out of the fuel bowls. Try shooting some good carb cleaner through every orifice. At this point though avoid removing the diaphragms to access more orifices for now since you wont know their condition and for now is better to not disturb them, You can remove them later when all else has failed. With the top off look down into the carb and check the sliders make sure they move freely. If the the bike has been sitting for some time it is possible that crap has built up in the carb and plugged orifices and/or jets If initial attempts to flush carb with cleaner appear to fail you can now remove the diaphragms since if this step fails to work your next step will likely be to remove the carbs anyway and try flushing the remaining orifices reinstall the diaphragms and sliders and try again (make sure the hole at the needle end is in the six oclock position. If after all this and everthing checks out Ok other than the only time the engine will run is when you trickle fuel down the carb than I would be inclined to considering removing and O/H the carb

Along with Marcarl's suggestion I would coat the slip fit parts, matting surfaces and threaded parts with a high temp nickel based anti sieze compound such as Permatex® Nickel Anti-Seize Lubricant , MMC78 Nickel Base Anti-Seize Lubricant Compound 2500°F , Volvo jointed bolt and exhaust paste 1161929 or equivalent. It helps parts to slide in place better and aids in getting a better seal. You will notice a smell the 1st time or two the engine heats up but after a few good rides the smell will be gone.

Another vote for DIY. Plus along with getting the proper manual which you can download for free if you look this one http://www.venturerider.org/manuals/RSService.pdf should be close enough for most of the work until you find one specific to your year and model. Also the tech section here is full of advice plus does and don'ts experiences posted by by other members over the years, some who have learned the hard way . Finally this site has the best technical support you get any were from many knowledgeable and experienced members right here on the site. Many who also started out very green but over the years have developed a pretty good handle on things. True there are very rare occasions were someone may post questionable advice but in most cases if you wait a little before jumping in with both feet, another member or more, with a little more knowledge and experience will step in with a valid contradiction and explain why that advice may not be as good as it sounds. Plus since there is often more than one way to skin a cat, you will often end up with more than one good idea to perform certain tasks, not always based on right or wrong but often geared towards what one has at hand to work with. Lastly If your lucky there may be a fellow member within a reasonable distance that will come to you or allow you to come to them to help you learn your way around the bike.

I do the same and some times I also use Gaiters such as hikers use in winter and also skiers. I also find washing the clothes in something like Nikwax Cotton Proof™ helps to keep them from soaking up water from snow and rain. It helps make the clothing water repellent. Depending on the material it can vary from water proof to different levels of water repellent. At the very least it helps prevent the jeans from soaking and holding a thousand gallons of water which can turn warm jeans into body heat robbing clothing. I do all my cotton camping gear with it as well since wet cotton can actually cause hypothermia in cold weather. Check out this link: https://www.nikwax.com/en-us/products/cotton-proof/

If we can get some info as to year and model of bike and what the issue or symptoms are there are still some very knowledgeable people here on the site that may be helpful.

There has for long time been this theory that Yamaha deliberately set their speedometers to read higher than the actual vehicle speed whether it is for some safety perspective or just to make it seem like your going faster than you think you are, or whether it is to ensure the vehicle never goes faster than the legal road speed by assuring any speedometer error is below speed limit not above.

Which particular one did you get ? I see there are several models. https://nvx.com/marine-audio/bluetooth-controllers.html

I would go along with what @Marcarl since carbs do not cause spitting back. Before pulling the carbs out. If its spitting back up the carb this suggests that the cylinder is drawing fuel in but during compression the intake valve is not sealing allowing the fuel to spit back out through carb. This can be caused by a sticking valve. Sticky valves can be caused by a bent stem or extremely dirty valve. Often this can be determined by noticing the valve clearance being exceptionally high. Valve clearances that are too tight can keep valves from fully seating. A broken or cracked valve or seat. Much of this can be determined by a compression but better yet pin pointed more accurately performing a leak down test. .

As well it is a good idea to check or even replace the bolt as they have been known to break at the most inopportune time

My 89 sits fine on the center stand but it sits too upright on the side stand. I always have to check ground grade before putting the side stand down and forget parking on the side of the road were the shoulders are narrow or it may fall over into the ditch. At home I have an anchor ring pegged down in the driveway to secure the bike so the wind which comes from the west and pretty heavy at times does not blow my bike over when it is covered. I tell my Harley ridding friends its because these bikes are so hot blooded that you have to tether them or they will just up and take off on their own.

Ok I officially hate You

At least It LIKE doesn't LIKE sound LIKE as silly as LIKE using LIKE numerous times LIKE in a sentence. We LIKE only LIKE use it once LIKE per phrase ----EH!

The fuel line between the filter and the carb could be deteriorating on the inside

search for ATM or MINI ATM fuse block

Happy Thanks Giving to all you Americans. Hopefully you still have some good gobblers left (not the human kind). This is why we have ours earlier up here so we get to snap up the best gobblers before they are all gone.

That's Eh! with a capital E and an ! mark BTW. If your gonna dabble in foreign languages you should try to get it right Eh!

Your Welcome but it if were not for the founder of this site and the members of the site the knowledge possessed by those members on this site that have it would not be able to share it with those that have need of it.

This also is a very good point. To add to it, when the diff cannot breath air gets drawn in through the seal but cannot escape. As the diff warms up and since the seal will not allow the air to escape pressure builds up in the diff compressing the moisture in the air to convert to water. As the diff cools a negative pressure forms in the diff allowing more air to enter the diff. further cooling depending on how much can cause condensation to add further to the water build up in the diff. As this cycle continues the water content in the diff builds and eventually you get enough water contamination to turn the oil into that tasty looking light fudge color (But Don't be tempted to sample it). After awhile if left long enough you will get a seal failure and you will see signs of oil leakage. Some years back Rockwell decided to install breathers in their truck diffs that were a third the size of what they used to be and because they were so small they would plug up with dirt and as a result we had numerous trucks coming in with the above mentioned issue all coming in with early wheel seal failures and that lovely brown liquid fudge. We eventually figured out the cause was that these undersized breathers were plugging up cause the scenario I also described above. Since the hole was too small to go back to the larger breather and drilling and tapping was out of the question due to warranty we started replacing the Rockwell breathers with the J tube style breather that Eaton used on their diffs. and the problem was solved. It was so prevalent that eventually Rockwell's warranty fix for this issue was to use the Eaton breathers. Following rear ends went back to the larger breathers and the issue disappeared.

Another possible cause can be dry drive pins in the rear wheel hub. Remove the wheel clean the pins rubbers and holes of any rust or debris, then lubricate the contact surfaces of the bins and sockets and reinstall. A high tack water proof grease such as red N tacky, any marine stern drive propeller shaft or grease such as Volvo Penta 828250 propeller shaft grease. The main thing is that the grease is a high tack, high temp water resistant grease which is rubber friendly. Though I have not used it myself some even like to use fluid film and swear by it. P/S You can check your wheel bearings at the same time.

Maybe that someone added a heavier spring so the choke would self cancel because they had a tendency to accidentally leave the choke on, only realizing it many miles later. Don't ask....

Even here in Canada all the trucks we sell at our Volvo truck dealership, have California emission standards stickers on them because we know that these units do run to California and are not allowed in the state without the sticker. But this has been going on for some years now so not sure why all of a sudden it is surfacing as an issue in lieu of the Covid issue.

I would want to know how water got into it. Bad seals are often the cause. High pressure washing can force water in past the seals since the seals are designed to to keep oil in not water under high pressure out. The same holds true if you ever submerged the axle in water wear the axle seal or the vent is under water.