saddlebum

or interactions with other drugs or supplements. Think about it, even grapefruit or diary products are to be avoided when taking some medications but unless someone tells us you would never know or even think about that.

Or you could try that I just thought the class system would cut out before that. Seeing as how my pressure gauge displays in kg/cm² which show me 1 to 6 instead of 14 to 85 like it would in PSI, it never dawned on me how high the class system would actually allow the pump to go before it cut it off. Never realized when my display showed a 6 that I actually had 85 PSI in my air bag. Man I sure would not want that to suddenly blow under my tush

I having been toying with this idea myself for some years but never got around to it. I think it could work as these little guys seem to be quite robust in comparison to some tire inflatters I have seen over the years, many which are quite small such as the one put out by slime. . Given that they are small and would have to run for a fairly long time to inflate a tire, over-heating could be a very strong possibility, though the head seems to have decent fins to control head temperature. I would experiment with a good spare compressor before risking one on the bike. If you did do this you would have to wire in a by pass for both electrics and air line. This could be easily accomplished using a switch. a relay with 5 terminals 87 being normally open and 87a being normally closed plus a 12 volt controlled 3 way air solenoid. You can get these at most truck shops since they are used to control lift axles etc. If you did move forward here is how I would go about it. Wire connections would be +12 volts to switch, from switch to pin 86 and solenoid +12v , Cut compressor +12v wire, compressor to terminal 30. other cut end to terminal 87a, +12v supply to 87, 85 and solenoid neg to ground. Remove compressor air line at compressor and connect to port marked NO (normally open) run line form compressor to port marked supply or in. Run line for inflating tires to port marked NC (normally closed) NOTE sometimes the ports may be marked SUP, DEL and EXH instead of NO, NC and IN but the valves still work the same you just have to work out which is related to which.

Sometimes Doctors do believe in supplements or witches brews, but their hands are often tied when it comes to recommending some of them because of certian professional standards they must adhere to.

Just see what happens. If you heat and dunk it you could make the metal too brittle if its high in carbon such as cast steel, if you dunk it too soon and too soft if you let it cool naturally. It all depends on the steel. If you where to heat it (and this is just an educated guess ) I would be inclined to let it cool naturally about 50% than dunk it in water or oil.

Looks like the wear is in the frame eye. OPTION 1; It there is plenty of meat drill out both frame bracket and kick stand to accept a larger diameter bolt. OPTION 2; As long as there is enough meat and only the frame bracket is worn, slowly drill it out until you end up with a round hole or close to round hole and fit the hole with a steel bushing that has an inner hole same as bolt size. Try to get a snug fit but a sliding fit as long as there is no play is fine. Coat both hole and outside of bushing with Loctite's green sleeve and bearing set. Wait a few minutes, wipe away any excess and reassemble. BTW green Loctite will fill a void up to 0.020" securely.

Sounds like an excuse to me. More profitable to sell a complete lock and ignition system than to be accommodating..... but who am I to say

Thanks for the update. Good food for thought. BTW I was told by doctor as long your cholesterol remains below a certain number plague build up will slowly begin to reverse.

@Breeze444 My thoughts are (A) If you bought the Barnett clutch did it come with a half clutch or did you reinstall the old half clutch with the new barnett clutch? Normally when you install a barnett clutch it does not come with a half clutch and you DO NOT reinstall the old 1/2 clutch and its related pieces. You DISCARD the 1/2 clutch its two space rings and the fine wire that help hold the three pieces in place. (B) if for some reason you were required to re- install the 1/2 clutch and its hardware you but something in the wrong, with regards to the half disc and its related pieces to where they are not allowing some of the friction discs to make full contact with the steel plates. BTW, I have had issues with my clutch in that it slowly looses fluid and gains air (one day I will get into it but for now I just keep topping and bleeding. Kind of one way of keeping the fluid fresh. LOL ) however never has this caused a slipping clutch but the reverse even had to ride and shift with no clutch function a couple times. (one day I will run out of excuses and fix it proper)

Looks like the wear is in the frame eye. OPTION 1; It there is plenty of meat drill out both frame bracket and kick stand to accept a larger diameter bolt. OPTION 2; As long as there is enough meat and only the frame bracket is worn, slowly drill it out until you end up with a round hole or close to round hole and fit the hole with a steel bushing that has an inner hole same as bolt size. Try to get a snug fit but a sliding fit as long as there is no play is fine. Coat both hole and outside of bushing with Loctite's green sleeve and bearing set. Wait a few minutes, wipe away any excess and reassemble. BTW green Loctite will fill a void up to 0.020" securely.

If that is the case than I would think it would be in the build record and the should be able to look it up. JMHO

Rum balls Mmmmm . Specially yours. I have yet to come across better rum balls than the ones you make.

That number may be for the cut of the key which is most common but may not be of any use to program a new FOB. FOBS are usually cloned from an existing one. That's why it is always good to keep a spare FOB or acquire a second one just in case.

Yeh you may have had a great time .....but what about everybody else or did you behave and leave the snow machine home.

Oh man I'm surprised the wheels ain't seized up. You need to get the weed wacker out break her loose from the undergrowth and start to burn less Pasta and more miles

Do you still have a key FOB or was that the only one you had. Often times with most vehicles, as long as you still have one Key fob you can get additional key fobs programmed at a somewhat reasonable cost (NOTE; I use the word somewhat loosely and I am speaking in general terms here). If not than you most likely have to follow the path of least resistance (that's the one your money follows to exit your wallet.).

I agree! finish it and than make like a little Italian and zip in and out of traffic on narrow tight windy roads like a mad man.

It certainly sounds like an interesting venture (no pun intended). For me it will depend on the border crossing situation and the condition of my knee come June, which has crapped out me again due to a torn meniscus and is currently limiting my mobility.

This is a good suggestion, however if you can get your hands on a bit of diesel fuel, this would be a choice over water.

Sure ! what could possibly go wrong

In the past I have used a 2 amp trickle charger and a wall plug timer. I set the timer to come on for one hour a day and it worked great. I now have a Deltran battery tender (not a Knock off) and it works great.

I would be more inclined to replace with a new unit since I have seen even rebuilt ones fail shortly after. For some reason compared to calipers the clutch slave seems to be a little more sensitive to surface imperfections and thought it is not difficult it is a bit of a PITA. and if your like me I prefer to do it only once. BTW you can remove the slave without removing the gear cover but how easily it goes back into place depends on which side of your mouth you hold your tongue.

I would move one step further and do a cylinder leak down test. This I have found to be the most accurate way of determining were the engine is loosing its compression. You may have to disable the decompression system in your case to do this, which may or may not be possible depending on the type of system used. I will often forgo a compression test and go directly to a leak down test, specially when I am working a multi-cylinder engine were compression has to be taken with the engine running such as a two stroke Detroit diesel, were you have to take down the top end replace the injector with a compression adapter put the engine back together, run it on the remaining cylinders and repeat for each cylinder. Bad enough to do on a 4 cylinder but worse when you get into 8 or even 16 valve cylinders.

and most of his riding was two up plus gear

It depends on the location of the bolt and how it is situated, sometimes there just is no way for a wire to work. In the trucking industry lock tabs are used a lot because of this. One thing to be aware of although lock tabs can be reused there is a limit as to how often the tab can be bent before it fatigues and breaks or becomes too weak to be reliable. In that case you either try to make use of the other tab or replace it completely