saddlebum

Time to dig out the bible of justifications and excuses and pick out a good one. Make that three just in case the 1st two don't cut it

If you happen to be out ridding and spot a bike with a trailer it it just may be @sleepy2. I am not even sure I have seen him without one. Only time I pulled one was when I bought the bike. I didn't even know one was included with the bike until we closed the deal and I was about to leave. I was ridding home in a thunderstorm and totally forgot it was behind me until I hit a dip in the road. The trailer bounce and the spare tire laying loose inside the metal box made such a noise It startled me and I thought I was about to get my hams roasted by a lightening bolt. Like I said I totally forgot it was back there until that moment.

I work afternoons so cannot get on during the week but will try on the weekend.

Basiclly it looks like you have the pairs synced up ok You just need to sync the left pair with the right pair. Sequence is not as important as it seems, to simplify, there are three screws involved 1 on the left and 2 on the right and they sit between the carbs set in and slightly below the diaphragm covers. They control the external linkage that connects the carbs together. So starting on the left adjust that screw until both carbs on the left are in sync, at this point ignore the right pair. Next move to the right side you will now see the 2 were on the left there is only 1. adjust the front screw until the the two carbs on the right side are in sync with each other, ignoring the left pair (by your video this is were you are at now ). Finally using the back screw on the right side adjust until the left pair is in sync with the right pair. You may have to repeat the sequence more than once but stick to the sequence you will eventually get there if the carbs are in proper condition. P/S during the process try to maintain idle speed between 900 to 1000 rpm. The adjusting screw for this is a small knob between the the left carbs. Once you have them set burp the throttle a couple times than recheck.

Sorry I missed the chat. I was was too busy this weekend to get on to VR so I missed the heads post. maybe next time. In any case Its good to see your still around @Yama Mama

You just slowly close them down until the needle stops pulsing

Were did that lake come from? I thought Kentucky was nothing but Blue Grass.

I cannot find the original receipt with the part number : Try sending an email to : Andy Customer Service Clearview Shields 800 798 6089 I info@clearviewshields.com

Oh You went and done it now @paysawYou just put your self in the bad books. And those that do feel sorry for you

A tip I got from Marcarl and which worked very well as well was to use carb cleaner

Good pics and also a good example of why I have said many times in the past, once you have the carb out due to suspect carb issues you may as well go whole hog and do a complete, thorough tear down and overhaul. It just seldom pays to cut corners.

Thanks for posting Phyll

My son has a similar 3 burner outdoor stove and he loves it. He uses at home as well as car camping trips. His only beef is that its a tad heavy for canoe and back packing trips

I will try to remember to look through my junk and see if I have any of those washers left over from previous carb rebuilds I did.

It seems a lot of events like this including tool shows, wood working shows and home and garden shows etc. are fading, even before covid. I am thinking things like you tube and online shopping may have a lot to do with it as well as the lack of interest by a younger generation that are more interested in a virtual life than a real one.

I would not be too hasty about replacing the coils. As a rule they seldom fail. The OEM plug end unscrew from the cables and if you look inside the plug end you will see how you can remove the inside pieces which basically consist of a tiny spring a tiny cylinder and a threaded piece that holds it in there. They can become corroded as well the spring can loose tension reducing our spark. Secondly Remove the connectors from the the CDI unit which is under and forward of the battery support and will have to be removed. The contacts on this are notorious for corrosion. clean them up well and finish off by spraying with ACF50 (you can get it on amazon) You might be pleasantly surprise. I had a dead #3 cylinder about 5 years ago and was about to replace the CDI when I noticed the corrosion which can range from a lot of green build up to what appears to be a very light green dust. Being familiar with this condition since I deal with it on trucks frequently I decided to clean up instead of replace the CDI and the bike has run like a million bucks ever since.

Mounted my android with a ram X-mount for years now and have never had any vibration issues. I am thinking either the android is more durable or since the X-mount consists of 4 spring loaded flexible arms with rubber knobs that grip the phone it may not transmit vibrations to the phone.

Any of these will allow you to use any of the common CB antennas on the market using a 3/8" thread. and most are available at just about any major truck stop or amazon. The 1st option simplest and most compact antenna mount, allows you to simply cut the coax install two eyelets. A 1/2" which crimps and solders on the braided wire and fits between the nylon spacer and the mounting bracket to create your ground connection. and a 3/8" eye that crimps and solders on the center wire which sits between the head of the mounting bolt and the nylon space which creates a direct connection the the antenna. See link below. https://www.roadprobrands.com/products/mobile-electronics/accessories/cb-mounts-meters-cables-speakers/antenna-stud-with-lug-connector The 2nd option for an antenna mount is similar to the first except it requires a PL 259 connector (which come in crimp, solder or solder-less ) to be installed on the cut end of your coax. the first link below is the antenna mount the next three are types of PL 259 connectors https://www.roadprobrands.com/search-results/mobile-electronics/accessories/cb-mounts-meters-cables-speakers/cb-antenna-stud-with-so-239-connector Pl-259 connectors: https://www.roadprobrands.com/products/mobile-electronics/accessories/cb-mounts-meters-cables-speakers/pl-259-crimp-on-connector-for-rg-58-cable https://www.roadprobrands.com/products/mobile-electronics/accessories/cb-mounts-meters-cables-speakers/male-pl-259-coax-cable-connector If you wish you can add this 90 degree adapter between the the second option base and antenna cable PL-259 connector https://www.roadprobrands.com/products/mobile-electronics/accessories/cb-mounts-meters-cables-speakers/90-degree-l-pl-259-to-so-239-connector

I have had two Clearviews and can highly recommend them. As well, they are easy to deal with and stand behind their product 100%. One windshield arrived with a very minor fault. I called and they immediately sent me a replacement, then shortly after, followed up contacting me to make sure the replacement was up to snuff, which it was. You will have no regrets with the Clearview.

Sorry to hear about the change in your life status but at least you can still see if not perfect. Hope whatever back road you take from the main road of life brings as much pleasure despite your currant situation as Motorcycling has. And of course you been here long enough to know that inability to ride does not make you any less a friend to us all as well your back ground and knowledge will always be an asset here for those less knowledgeable. Prayers and well wishes are with you my friend.

a test light or voltmeter with one lead connected to ground or the batterys neg post is the surest way.

Four fingers work great too the one that doesn't form a blister is the one that indicates a misfiring cylinder

Or 102" whip. Be warned though when you bend it over to tie the tip down for low overhead underpasses.....It don't look as cool as it does on a jeep

First off welcome to the club from Burlington ON. @Solace. You will soon hear from other Ontario riders as we are a pretty close knit division of VR. Are main Purpose is to keep the American members on the straight and narrow. . Back to your carbs. Though in many cases flushing the carb with carb cleaner is very effective. using air to blow through the passages depending on pressure used can also move debris into the wrong places. You want to also gently Reach down with a screwdriver and see If the sliders move freely they can sometimes stick when the bike has been sitting for awhile. Remove the diaphragm covers and check the diaphragms for pin holes or worse. While the are out give the carb another flush with carb cleaner. Remove the fuel supply lines from the carb and open the drains. flush lots carb cleaner into each fuel inlet and and let it drain out through the open drains. You follow up with some gentle air pressure but be careful here. Here is another technique Cleaning First Gen Carbs On The Bike.pdf If none of this works its time for a complete tear down and overhaul. Another thing you want check out is the wiring connects your cdi They could be green and corroded You can get at them by removinig the battery and battery tray. I used a good electrical contact cleaner following up with a god flush with ACF50 and the bike ran like new. previously #3 cylinder was not firing and I almost replaced the CDI unit with a an ignitec unit (which by the way is still sitting on my shelf). The bike ran so well I did not feel the need to install it.

same here