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Everything posted by saddlebum
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Did not realize there was such a thing. Not to mention I really thought cutting it would have been the tricky and hard part which I accomplished with no issue, figured being plastic drilling it would have been the easy part.
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Using the shoulda woulda coulda theory I realize (and should have realized ) that I should have started with a small pilot hole 1st then opened it up using a small step drill at slow speed or a tapered reamer going through only half way and then finishing from the other side. You don't always have to be stupid to be dumb
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Be very carefull if you plan on cutting your slipstreamer. I found out the hard way that the slipstreamer is very hard and can stress crack very easily. In order to conserve the recurve at the top I cut the bottom which worked out perfectly but when I went to drill new holes for the bolts, the drill bit snagged and the windshield split right up the middle. I probably should have used a smaller bit then opened up the hole with a step drill or reamer and drill 1/2 from one side then finish from the other side.
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I just cut my windsheild down taking 2 inches off the bottom. However as I was drilling the new holes to mount it the drill grabbed and I split the windsheild in two so now I too am shopping for one. I am also pondering the vent question when it dawned on me that the 1st gens have vents in the dash plus a fair bit of air comes up past the steering head so I have wondered if it even makes a difference.
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Oh and I am sure the Warden has bigger plans
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Hey I brought you a Ragtop from Michigan last year. .....OK so it was a guy not a car but its gotta count for something.
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So to start out I split my windshield more or less down the middle (Don't Ask). Bottom line I am now looking for a new windshield. Mine was a Slipstreamer which I had no issue with other than the top edge was right in line with my line of sight. The windshield was 22.5 inches and I wanted to reduce it to 20 inches (oops let a clue slip out). My wife suggested putting a pad on the seat so I would sit a little higher (oh oh another clue). Any way long story short I am now looking for a new windshield. It seems Slipstreamer only makes a 22.5 inch. On the other hand Clearview lists three sizes including a 20 inch. My question is to those of you that have the Clearview. Are you happy with it? Does it have the recurve edge at the top? Do you have the vent in it and is it worth the extra expense? Is there anything you don't like about it? If you could change would you and if so what would you switch too? Where is the best place to buy it from?
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Since everybody is getti'n all mushy like and talki'n about how they are so looki'n forward to seeing everybody I guess I'M just gonna have to throw's my hat in the ring and say ME TOO.
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So thats what they call it ....always wondered about that
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Sorry...It wasn't planned that way.....
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The speed I don't mind But i cannot see myself looking at the pavement 6" ahead of the front wheel for 5 miles never mind 500 miles. I would have to learn to ride that thing like a unicycle just so I could look were I am going LOL
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WOW Congrats Don and Nancy. What a couple of years you two have had 1st Nancy gets to reunite with Blood family and now this. May the sun continue to shine on both of you. P/S I signed the calender and will be honored to be there to share in your joy and celebration. By the why Don now that your going to have a married women on the back of your bike you better add some extra padding to the back of your Helmet .....Just Say'n
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happy easter everyone
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HAROLD!!...START THE CAR....START THE CAR or in this case WARDEN!! ....START THE CAR.... START THE CAR:backinmyday:
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Oh man.....does that mean all us 1st genners gotta drop down to 3rd gear now just so you can keep up...Bad enough we had to drop to 4th gear for the second genners ...now this . . . . . . . . . However its a sweet looking ride hope you enjoy ......Psssst I was looking at them myself but tell anyone and I will deny it.
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Happy Birthday Mike - Hope it was A great one for you.
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This is all very true. However for the DIY'r who cannot justify or afford purchasing one of the retail units just to do his own bike and maybe a friend or two, the homemade single gauge unit works surprisingly well and I doubt the average everyday rider would even notice the minor difference. As a matter of fact one of the guy's who I synced carbs for latter had the opportunity to check it with a carb tune and found it to be spot on. Although I purchased all the hardware new, just because I wanted it to look nice, I could have built it for nothing just by digging through my pile of Junk using tee and elbow fittings the way Carl built his which is were I got the idea from but just felt like embellishing it a little. Plus it makes for a pretty compact unit. The only draw back is you cannot observe all four cylinders at the same time which is a pretty minor issue and were you to build it with four gauges you would have to make sure all 4 were 100% in sync with each other.
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Whaaaat a NAKED garage floor - of all the nerve - have you no shame - what is this world coming to.
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You can always make one up http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?36518-home-made-carb-tune-tool The parts are available at princess auto except for the valves which I got at Lowes. If you have a bunch of brass laying around you can replace the Aluminum bar with three tee fittings and two elbows assembled together.
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Before butt connectors and heat shrink tubing one of my favorite splices was what was known as a telegraph or western union splice. I would then wrap it in splicing compound (now commonly known as Magic tape) then in later years with heat shrink tubing. I still prefer this splice today with fine or thin wires. You could combine this splice with the type of heat shrink that has a small ring of solder in it but a prefer to solder first then cover with heat shrink. Also with regards to weather proof connectors one of the most readily available sources is your local gm dealer. They carry connector kits and terminals of all sizes. See the attached link which is a GM document. Also truck dealers such as Volvo carry a lot of weather proof connectors and terminals The ones used for data link wires are quite small. This link shows a version of the terminal catalog though maybe not the latest version used by GM. Kit_J-38125-620H. http://www.weber.edu/wsuimages/automotive/J-38125-620B%20Terminal%20Repair%20Booklet.pdf Also check out this link http://theelectricaldepot.com/index.php?cPath=7 This link shows the splice I am referring to. http://makezine.com/2012/02/28/how-to-splice-wire-to-nasa-standards/
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I cannot remember exactly but I think it was the equivalent of about a number ten screw. for drilling purposes the final hole should be about 1/2 to 2/3 the diameter of the threaded hole give. Start with 1/2 and you can always creep up a little larger if need be to accommodate the torx bit
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You can try using a drill bit the same size as the threaded hole and drill into the screw just enough to create dimple in the end of it. Then switch to a drill bit smaller than than the screw and drill a hole to drive a small long reach torx bit into ( the dimple drilled by the first bit should help to keep the second bit centered. Fill the hole with a good penetrating oil and let it sit for a couple days. adding penetrating oil as needed. After a couple days drive in the small torx bit and gently start wiggling back and forth. Continue using penetrating oil and wiggling until it comes loose. I stress gently as you are now using a very small bit which can easily break. Once it starts to move keep working back and forth backing out a little more each time. remember not to use too much force even when it does start to move. Patience is key here.
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Hey not to loud there Oldgoat. I don't know about your driving laws down there but up here you have to have a Z endorsement for air brakes on your drivers license. If the ministry were to learn motorcycles have air air brakes the government cash cow would come up out of the pasture looking to have every biker up here pay to be retrained on air brakes and pay again every 5 years to be retested.