saddlebum

Here in the southern part of Ontario, even if it was acceptable I doubt I would attempt it. There are so many arrogant and bad drivers drivers in this part of the province that even the trucks I deal with say of all the states and provinces they drive through they hate driving through the greater Toronto area the most.

Glad you were able to make it and arrive home safely as well@The Tooch and that your getting back up on your feet, Its been a long time. Was also nice that another newby @Adrien Leducwas able to make it and introduce himself to us. It may have been a small gathering but it was great just the same.

You gotta wonder what makes em tick.

Hard to believe a gentleman like you Puc would do something like that. .....Wait I minute ...N0w that I think of it...I don't remember you being a gentleman you crazy old coot

Whats to explain ?.......................

Are you sure or do you just not remember being there. where ever there was Maybe it was there somewhere in between the U turns! Somewhere

Did yo try pushing in on the key as you move to lock On my bike there is a spring loaded detent in the switch, to go to full lock you must push in on the key

What flew away

So very true. The less volume a tire holds the more detrimental pressure becomes EG: loose 20 psi in a bicycle tire and you are running pretty soft. Loose 20 lbs in a 11r24 transport tire and you don't even notice the difference.

And yet they still get paid well for it with job security rivaled only by being a politician.

If I had learned it within the last 55 years I could tell you but prior to that I don't remember much. But then I am sure you understand exactly what mean, Don't you.

The way I test for parasitic draw disconnect the ground cable. hook a multi-meter set to the 10 amp setting between the ground cable and ground post. If the reading is more than 1 amp start pulling fuses until the amp reading drops. If the initial amp reading is less than 1 amp switch to the milliamp scale. Anything above 50 milliamps indicates a parasitic draw. Again start pulling fuses until it drops. Once you find the fuse that drops the reading reinstall it. Next find the any connectors to which that fuses circuits run through. The minute you pull a connector apart and the reading drops off reconnect it and go to the next connector. if for example the next connector or connectors make no difference than than you have a short some where between the two connectors. If however the second or third connector do make a difference continue to disconnect subsequent connectors until your down to the end of the circuit or circuits. Next disconnect the items that circuit powers up until your meter shows no draw. NOTE: if you do not have a multi meter a test light or bulb and pig tail makes a reasonable substitute. Connect one end of the test light to the neg battery post and the other end to the disconnected cable. If there is no draw the light should be off (or very dim due to things like clock and radio memory voltage). But if it is glowing even if not full bright Follow the same steps as above until there is a significant drop in the brightness of the bulb.

Another way is to place a drop on some white paper the oil will spread slowly while the fuel will spread quickly so if your blot has a lighter outer ring spreading out faster than the darker inner spot you likely have fuel in your oil.

Expecting some accurate feed back on the knees. I knee'd to know.

I have ran the 404 and my only issue with them is how poorly they handle road snakes and asphalt after the surface has been ground for resufacing. I have ran E2 E3 and currently E4 on my bike and have got great millage and handling from them approx 20k km / 12k miles. They do tend to loose cornering grip in their final days so that is something to be aware off. I also never had the road noise that so many seem to comment on with these tires.

Best bet is to go onto a Harley forum. They are the experts when it comes to trailering bikes.

First stop is 1pm, Tim Hortons on the South side of Paris - Rest Acres Rd. from there we trip over to, Twisted Treats, 79 King Edward Street, Paris Ontario, Canada. https://paristwistedtreats.ca/

I am currently on year eight with my Deka AGM and it is still going strong. Generally keep on a battery tender through the harshest winter months but I have had years where I have forgot to hook it up and I never disconnect the battery from the bike, yet still the bike would just barely crank over. I would then put it on the battery tender overnight and it would be good for another season. If it is dropping off as fast as you say I would suspect a parasitic drain condition try disconnecting the ground cable from you battery when you store the bike and see if it still occurs.

Hope you do it would be good to see you again.

First let me welcome you to the site. Also if your free on Aug 6th some of us Ontario members are hoping to have a little get together in Paris. You should come and introduce yourself. As far as the whine goes it is pretty much a normal thing with these bikes. Some have replaced the clutch basket but I believe many of us myself included just learned to live with it.

👍👍👍

Normally I would be inclined to disagree. The speedometer and odometer use the same signal produced by the speed sensor which measures the wheels revolutions per mile or kilometer then this signal is translated into miles or Km per hour by the speedometer and total miles or km coverd by the odometer of the rolling wheel. A smaller tire will have more revolutions per mi/km and a larger one will have fewer revolutions per mi/km. So by putting a smaller dia tire or wheel on the bike the speedometer will make it appear the bike is going faster than it actually is and the odometer will make it appear the bike is covering more mi/ km than it really is and the reverse is true if using a bigger dia tire since it will have fewer revolutions per mile. Since both speedometer and odometer utilize the same signal if one is out so is the other. If one is corrected so is the other. The only discrepancy to this is if the needle itself on the speedometer is out of calibration while the odometer is within or closer calibrated. In that case than yes the healer would become a double edged sword. I would love to see the cluster of a second generation since I have to wonder if there is a calibration adjustment on the speedo head since many electronic speedo heads do have one. On the 1st generation you can correct the speedo by very carefully bending the needles return springs anchoring tab and increasing or decreasing spring tension until you have achieved accurate speedometer readings.

Your very welcome always feels good when your able to be of some assistance and improve someones day. Good luck with the carbs. Chances are the needle seats are stuck open due to debris. Be careful how you remove the seats if you plan on reusing them because they are easily marked if you just try to use a straight punch. Some where I have a pic of how I remove them which I wiĺl post when I find it. One method I have used in the past is replace the needle with a few close fitting balls from a ball bearing and carefully placed a punch against the final ball and tap out the seat. Because the punch will be on an angle tap carefully.

Almost makes you wish it came with a transparent replacement cover. How cool would that be?

It was nice to meet you too Mark