saddlebum

Not entirely true. An engine produces torque as well as hp. Overall Engine design. From the mechanical to the fuel system to the electronics, determines how much HP and how much torque.an engine is able to produce. Gearing simply multiplys the torque produced by the engine. The required gear ratio to produce a desired torque at the Rear wheel is dependent on the initial torque produced by the engine. Also number of cylinders does not necessarily determine either Hp or torque there is a lot more goes into it than just number of cylinders. The main difference is a smoother quicker responding engine with more cylinders than with fewer cylinders but both given equal total cylinder volume could produce equal hp and torque depending on overall design.

You could look into a fuel injection conversion such as https://www.ignitech.cz/en/vyrobky/ignijet/ignijet 12/ignijet 12.htm

Condolences to the family and prayers for Gill

Old school or not, I agree yamaha should have stuck with the V4 and simply revised it to a fuel injected engine.The rest of the fancy electronics I can take it or leave it.

May also be that the swing arm bushings need some attention

Yeh From what I hear, getting old makes one more injury prone and injuries take longer to heal. So I am told anyway.

Apparently it is not a new thing Motorcycle Polo 1910-1930

Try outs start in the spring.

14 mm is smaller than 5/8 which is pretty much= to 16 mm. By going with larger piston size in the caliper and smaller in the master you would end up with more brake force but your lever stroke will be a bit longer and may even feel a bit softer but you will get used to it.

My sister in law had much the same surgery and she came out fine. So best wishes and prayers up for a good outcome.

So far I have not had any issue with parts to rebuild my carbs. I prefer the 4 carb over the single carb mainly because you can fine tune each carb to its respective cylinder, getting the max performance out of each cylinder, were as with a single carb you can only tune it to its best compromise among the 4 cylinders.

Many of the helmets named are great but only if they fit properly. All the more reason to visit a good store and try before you buy. Some will even allow you to return it if after a ride you realize. The fit is wrong for you.

Prayers sent and am glad your still here to tell the tale.

You may want to sort out the carb issue first. The carbs have four overflow hoses that drain out at the rear of the engine between the exhaust pipes.

Now if I read you right you removed the cam caps and the cams. Cam caps MUST go exactly in the same place they were removed from. This is because the area were the cam goes through, is machined with the caps in place so that all the holes are in perfect alignment, often referred to as line boring or machining. Mix these caps up and the cam will not turn freely but end up being clamped in place. 1st get and follow a proper manual for your bike. There is a proper tightening sequence for the cam caps which must be adhered to or the cam can be damaged If your lucky the may be marks on each cap that will line up with its proper location on the head. This can be a slash mark on the cap that perfectly matches up to one on the head when the cap is in place. The can be numbered with a matching number on its counter part on the head or there is nothing at all. Another method is to check the matting surfaces of the cap and head for matching finger prints so to speak on the mating surfaces. Finally if your patient you can keep swapping them out until the cam rotates freely if more than one seem to be a good fit than assign them to that location for later trial and error Start by placing caps in place without the cam. feel the inside of the bore and across the matting edge with your finger for smoothness. as you slide your finger across were the cap and its counter part mate you should feel no edges. If you do try another cap. Once you feel you have matched the proper cap to its proper location install the cam. slowly snug up the caps running back and forth across all the bolts until you start to feel the cam bind. ease up until the cam just starts to smooth out again now tighten each cap one at a time if the cap goes right down tight with out clamping the cam you might be lucky. If it clamps the cam try a different cap until you can torque it down without it clamping the cam. Now mark the location and remove. The caps place a piece of plasti-guage on top of the cam and reinstall the caps as per the manual. do not turn cam at this time. After you have properly torqued the caps in place remove the carefully. The plasti-gauge package has reference or comparison marks along its edge. compare these with the amount the plasti-gauge has flattened out to determine clearance usually between 0.0008 and 0.0021 inches to a max limit of 0.006 inches. If all meets the correct criteria you should be OK to reassemble your cam. BTW this will take lots of patience and luck to get yourself out of this issue. in future always mark and remember locations of any bearing cap.

It's so if the bike falls over you have a grab handle to pull it back on its wheels. You may wanna down your Wheaties 1st though..

I guess that would work if you had a heel/toe shifter .

Always easily done...............

Not a tat guy myself but that does not stop me from admiring nice work. Very nice tattoo. My Son is in to tigers and has a very nice tiger tattoo on his shoulder. He would like yours.

Correct me if I am wrong but whether it's right side up or left side up does it really matter cause either way your laying on your side which I always thought was a bad thing.

Had every intention of making my way down but it turned out ol saddlebum (I mean young saddlebum) had bigger and more important pots to stir up that weekend. Plus @Marcarl only gave me a location he failed to mention whether or not there would be pepperettes on site.

That is correct. But as stated the thrust forces on the rear or driving tire comes from acceleration or pushing if you will, were the thrust forces placed on the front tire is the opposite it comes from being pushed rather than pushing such braking or simple rolling resistance and the reason for mounting it in reverse rotation.

In general regardless of vehicle, tires can rotate in either direction. The exception here are tires designed specifically for the rear of a motorcycle or have directional markings on the sidewalls. Now something to consider with the way the plys are layed in a tire it has more to do with the thrust forces placed on the tire than which direction the tire rolls. A tire that pushes as in a rear tire has the opposite thrust force than a tire that is pushed as in a front tire. For that reason if you did mount a rear tire on the front the proper way to mount it would be in reverse rotation. The tread pattern is also a consideration as the rear tires pattern would be designed for displacing water while pushing were as the front tire would be designed to displace water while being pushed/coasting.

Yup tire valve - you got no choice but to replace it. BTW just so your aware this site has a rule about using certain words or language!

With electric bikes they could play artificial Harley clatter through headsets in their helmet and not desturb anyone around them. But I guess that kinda defeats the purpose of feeling like your impressing people around you .