saddlebum

Normally it is at the radio. Not sure about the transmit without headset but cannot see off hand why it woul not. You can always try it. Here is a good article on how to. https://www.rightchannelradios.com/blogs/installation-guides/18330687-cb-antenna-tuning-instructions?srsltid=AfmBOorEogEZm7W8J0YTBYtu6neshaHnaRu6OL0KLnJe4_d0SrKqHml3

Normal procedure is to disconnect cable from cb and connect to swr meter and short jumper from meter to CB. Take the bike somewhere away from structures to avoid any signal reflection and adjust your antenna length to get your lowest but equal swr reading on both lowest and highest channel. Alternatively if you have a preferred channel that you use most often like 28 for example, adjust to lowest reading on that channel and just check that 1 and 40 are still within the acceptable range.

Smoked horsemeat on homemade raisin bread.

It consited of some modified brake lines and a junction block that mounted to the bottom of the lower triple tree between the forks. Three lines connected to this block. One going to the right caliper one to the left caliper and one going to mastercylinder on the handle bar the line coming from the rear master to the left caliper is removed and discarded. A plug was used to plug the hole in the proportioning valve on the rear master. Myself I just got rid of the valve completely and connected the rear brake directly to the master.

Or choke cable length.

Another solution is to park by the Harleys, then no one will notice.

Just do not recommend using the sheet metal screw method to remove the seal. The tolerances are tight and you risk scoring the shaft. Don't ask how I know. Lets just say I am now looking for a speedi sleeve to fit the shaft.

I would swap out the highway pegs for a set of Kurykan Longhorns. Make sure you get the smaller one inch diameter clamps.

If memory serves there are some minor differences but I do know many of the carb parts are interchangeable but not all. I would think they should fit physically but you may have to play with the jetting and slider needle settings to match the 1200 requirements. I would go into a parts break down for each carb and see how the part numbers for each match up.

Mine is not the same as yours. but I do have the front pocket set so that it sits centered to the same height as the axle with the rear saddle adjusted so the wheel is not touching the ground. However seeing as how your front pocket is on a swivel I would be tempted to set it higher as long as the tire does not roll in so deep as to come in contact with the upright or the ground.

What! No princess auto. Hope you Don't wake up in the middle of the night with the shakes.

It was cosy little get together topped of with some of Marca's delicious homemade soup.

1st of all the fuel pump runs on both a timer and a line pressure sensor so it is quite normal to turn the key on and off for several cycles to get fuel to the carbs if they are empty. When the carbs are full the pump will barely run but a click or two. 2nd Check your screen to see what is displayed when the red light is on or flashing it could simply mean your getting low on fuel or your side stand is down while in gear. In the case of fuel level the light will flash when getting low. slow at 1st than faster as it gets lower and finally solid when your very low.

There is an artical in the tech section regarding what to do if the sense wire cannot be used in thevreplacement battery,k

You are correct regarding it should have 2 filaments and it should also have 2 lead contacts on the base. Odd that they would opt to use such a rare bulb for a simple signal light.

Partzilla https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/5VN-83311-00-00?srsltid=AfmBOoqvbcyNJGRjxIsVEs6mStkoJpX0vAsXoQiriUke46rRZonl0yOK

Dumb question as I am sure you already tried but is there a number on the bulb base

Go to the kuryakan web site. There you can pick out and combine the individual peices you need to create the configuration that suites your needs

Its hard to tell by the picture but I am inclined to agree with @Chaharly. If memory serves me right, (which ain't so great these days ) thats just a through shaft supported by the cover and connects to another flex joint and linkage behind the cover. You should be good by simply replacing the cover. BTW I have worked and stripped down a lot of these old girls and this is the 1st one I have seen do this. What size boot do you wear LOL.

Definitly. By the look of those rubbers I would say your caliper pistons have been sticking an over heating. When rebuilding avoid splitting the calipers in half. The seals that seal between the body halves are an odd size and difficult to find.

Yes bleeding the conentional way will work though these bikes can sometimes not be as co-operative as when bleeding car brakes. Back bleeding by feeding the fluid under pressure in through the bleeder screw until the master. Is full is more effective. On many hydraulic systems I have worked on which includes cars, heavy trucks and tow motors as well as hydraulic clutches, I have found back bleeding is sometimes the only method that works and is also the quickest.

These bikes do get very hot at idle and the fan kicks in right around the top edge of the green, but they usually come way down once your moving. The drain valve should be in the off or closed position. It should only be in open position when draining or filling the cooling system. Mother's or McQuires headlight restore works amazingly well to bring the windshield back to like new condition. With regards to the speedometer accuracy, with great patience and a gentle touch, it can be adjusted. You need to remove the speedometer head from the cluster and gain access to the inside of the speedo head. Spinning magnets move the needle up the scale and a fine spring from the needle to a fixed tab returns it to zero. Spring tension affects accuracy by how strongly it resists or counters the magnetic pull of the spinning magnet. This tab can be bent ever so slightly to increase or decrease the tension on the spring to either increase or decrease this counter force which in turn affects the speed indicated by the needle. This can be a very finicky adjustment and is a total trial and error process. You may get lucky on the first shot or you may have to make several attempts. If the speedometer is running fast (which most do) you want to increase the tension.

That torn cup will definitely affect your ability to bleed the brakes. If you have the bleeder screw at the steering head get a can of wurth rost-off ice penetrating spray If memory services me blaster also make an ice version. Using a small butane torch heat the bleeder screw (Not red hot you do not want to ignite the spray) than hit it with the spray keep the spray on it till it gets cold (may have to do it a few times) but the bleeder should break loose. Once you loosen it it remove it completely and either clean it well making sure the hole in it is clear or replace it. To bleed the system: Option 1 Bleed 1st at this bleeder then the left front brake and finally the rear brake. Option 2 Completely drain the brake of all fluid. Get a new windshield washer pump. and some clear hose connect to pump. place the suction hose in a new bottle of brake fluid. connect the other end to the left front brake caliper (NOTE: you may want to add a restriction in this second hose as the pump may move too much fluid at once or a rheostat to slow the pump down). with the line connected to the open bleeder of left front caliper and the bleed screw at the steering head open run the pump. Close the bleeder screw as soon as fluid comes out and turn the pump off as soon as the fluid gets into the master. You should now be able to bleed the rear caliper the conventional way.

13.6 - 14.8 is normal range with any charging system, 14.2 being ideal. Keep in mind it will show less if a battery is very low but should increase to normal as battery charges up providing a the battery is good. A bad battery can drag down charging voltage so charge and load test battery before condemning charging system. Dirty or poor connections including bad wiring can effect charging output as well. so before jumping to any conclusions and replacing any expensive items eliminate any contributing cause first. If all of this checks out OK than you may be looking at a regulator or stator. A simple but effective test for bad connections I teach my apprentices in the truck shop is as follows. With the key on, Clamp a test light to the batt NEG (Yes the Neg) post and with the key on touch the point of the test light to various metal parts of the bike such as frame and engine case etc.. the test light should NOT glow at all if it does you have a bad ground some where. with test light still clamped to the NEG POST and while grounding the test light probe to the engine case try cranking the engine if the light glows you have a bad ground if it does NOT your ground should be ok. I know this all sounds kind of backwards but it works very effectively. If at any point the light glows slowly move the test point of the light along the ground circuit until the light no longer glows. The fault will be between the point were the light glows and does not glow. you can even pin it down to the connection by testing the wire it self at the connection and the and the the bolt and contact point at that connection. If this all checks out you can use the same procedure on the positive side of the circuit and if that checks out. (You can also do the above test with a volt meter the idea is to see zero volts, any voltage indicates you are bridging a poor or bad connection. moving the test leads closer together along the circuit until you again get zero voltage narrows in on were the bad connection is.) To check the charging system you can follow these steps: Check across the battery with a accurate voltmeter to verify if the problem is in the charging system OR in the other wiring on the bike. Run the engine at about 3000 RPM, and the voltage at the battery should be 14.5V plus or minus .5V. It goes down at higher temperature, so if it's in the 80's or 90's, you may only get to 14.1 or so. If it's low, (remove the left body panel (side cover) and about half way up the vertical frame section behind the motor, you will find a plug that has 3 white (with a blue? stripe) wires....this is the connector between the alternator stator and the voltage regulator. Inspect this for burned wiring. If you find a lead that's been overheated, you can cut the plug out, and connect the wiring directly by twisting one stator lead and one regulator lead together, and then soldering them and taping them. If the plug and wiring looks OK, you can disconnect the plug, and then take the stator half and measure the AC voltage (at idle) between the 3 pairs (A&B, A&C, and B&C). It should be equal, and if one pair is obviously lower, you have a bad stator. A charging problem, though rare may also be caused by the main fuse link in the smaller red wire that attaches to the battery by having it's link come loose. This link is in a plastic case and it's just to the left of the battery. Open it up and make sure these screws are snug. Also Check out this PDF Testing for a Battery not Charging..pdf