saddlebum

Try draining the carbs and then close the drains. Remove fuel and vent lines from the carbs shoot carb cleaner in through the supply port then in through the vent or overflow ports. Drain the carbs again and if you have air turn down the pressure right down to 5 psi and with the drains open gently blow into the supply fitting. Close the drains reconnect the hoses and go for a test ride. See if that helps. Saved pulling a few carbs doing this. There is also the hot shot method described, in the tech section, you can try.

Post a pic of the ignitech box. The unit is more or less universal within reason It also depends what bike it came off of and therefore requires the correct programing for the bike involved. If you have the complete kit it should include a harness to connect to a laptop so it can be programmed for your bike. You should be able to download the correct file from ignitech. If not I may still have the files on my computer. With regards to testing your coils, there are shop manuals downloaded to the tech section on this site. Check and clean all the connections even if they look clean and make sure there is good drag and tension on your connector terminals by using a terminal of the correct size. I almost replaced a perfectly good cdi unit once and ended up not needing to after cleaning all the connections. Also check the harness connections going to your stator on the left side of the bike.

I could be wrong but I am pretty sure they use the same clutch.

I remember missing it because I was busy rebuilding my bike after being run off the road by an unlicsensed driver in an unlicensed and uninsured car.

Not a fan really. Most additives thicken oil which hinders the oils ability to creep into tight areas. That stickyness you often see demonstrated in those little gear setups on many parts counters also holds debris. Best option is to just use a good quality oil designed for wet clutches.

Still have both my 89's but with the craziness that has become all too common on the roads in our area recently and the number of times I have been cut off in the last 2 years I am questioning whether or not it is time to find a new hobby.

Sooooo, Whats wrong with a little snow?

Not sure about thevsecond gens but the 1st gens had an oil level sensor. If the level was low the light came on but but sometimes depending on were the level was at the light would come on during certian riding conditions. Also check your wiring condition tomthecsensor.

Merry Christmas right back at you and to all the members of our Venture Rider family. May we all be safe and loved.

Normally it is at the radio. Not sure about the transmit without headset but cannot see off hand why it woul not. You can always try it. Here is a good article on how to. https://www.rightchannelradios.com/blogs/installation-guides/18330687-cb-antenna-tuning-instructions?srsltid=AfmBOorEogEZm7W8J0YTBYtu6neshaHnaRu6OL0KLnJe4_d0SrKqHml3

Normal procedure is to disconnect cable from cb and connect to swr meter and short jumper from meter to CB. Take the bike somewhere away from structures to avoid any signal reflection and adjust your antenna length to get your lowest but equal swr reading on both lowest and highest channel. Alternatively if you have a preferred channel that you use most often like 28 for example, adjust to lowest reading on that channel and just check that 1 and 40 are still within the acceptable range.

Smoked horsemeat on homemade raisin bread.

It consited of some modified brake lines and a junction block that mounted to the bottom of the lower triple tree between the forks. Three lines connected to this block. One going to the right caliper one to the left caliper and one going to mastercylinder on the handle bar the line coming from the rear master to the left caliper is removed and discarded. A plug was used to plug the hole in the proportioning valve on the rear master. Myself I just got rid of the valve completely and connected the rear brake directly to the master.

Or choke cable length.

Another solution is to park by the Harleys, then no one will notice.

Just do not recommend using the sheet metal screw method to remove the seal. The tolerances are tight and you risk scoring the shaft. Don't ask how I know. Lets just say I am now looking for a speedi sleeve to fit the shaft.

I would swap out the highway pegs for a set of Kurykan Longhorns. Make sure you get the smaller one inch diameter clamps.

If memory serves there are some minor differences but I do know many of the carb parts are interchangeable but not all. I would think they should fit physically but you may have to play with the jetting and slider needle settings to match the 1200 requirements. I would go into a parts break down for each carb and see how the part numbers for each match up.

Mine is not the same as yours. but I do have the front pocket set so that it sits centered to the same height as the axle with the rear saddle adjusted so the wheel is not touching the ground. However seeing as how your front pocket is on a swivel I would be tempted to set it higher as long as the tire does not roll in so deep as to come in contact with the upright or the ground.

What! No princess auto. Hope you Don't wake up in the middle of the night with the shakes.

It was cosy little get together topped of with some of Marca's delicious homemade soup.

1st of all the fuel pump runs on both a timer and a line pressure sensor so it is quite normal to turn the key on and off for several cycles to get fuel to the carbs if they are empty. When the carbs are full the pump will barely run but a click or two. 2nd Check your screen to see what is displayed when the red light is on or flashing it could simply mean your getting low on fuel or your side stand is down while in gear. In the case of fuel level the light will flash when getting low. slow at 1st than faster as it gets lower and finally solid when your very low.

There is an artical in the tech section regarding what to do if the sense wire cannot be used in thevreplacement battery,k