saddlebum

Not sure about thevsecond gens but the 1st gens had an oil level sensor. If the level was low the light came on but but sometimes depending on were the level was at the light would come on during certian riding conditions. Also check your wiring condition tomthecsensor.

Merry Christmas right back at you and to all the members of our Venture Rider family. May we all be safe and loved.

Normally it is at the radio. Not sure about the transmit without headset but cannot see off hand why it woul not. You can always try it. Here is a good article on how to. https://www.rightchannelradios.com/blogs/installation-guides/18330687-cb-antenna-tuning-instructions?srsltid=AfmBOorEogEZm7W8J0YTBYtu6neshaHnaRu6OL0KLnJe4_d0SrKqHml3

Normal procedure is to disconnect cable from cb and connect to swr meter and short jumper from meter to CB. Take the bike somewhere away from structures to avoid any signal reflection and adjust your antenna length to get your lowest but equal swr reading on both lowest and highest channel. Alternatively if you have a preferred channel that you use most often like 28 for example, adjust to lowest reading on that channel and just check that 1 and 40 are still within the acceptable range.

Smoked horsemeat on homemade raisin bread.

It consited of some modified brake lines and a junction block that mounted to the bottom of the lower triple tree between the forks. Three lines connected to this block. One going to the right caliper one to the left caliper and one going to mastercylinder on the handle bar the line coming from the rear master to the left caliper is removed and discarded. A plug was used to plug the hole in the proportioning valve on the rear master. Myself I just got rid of the valve completely and connected the rear brake directly to the master.

Or choke cable length.

Another solution is to park by the Harleys, then no one will notice.

Just do not recommend using the sheet metal screw method to remove the seal. The tolerances are tight and you risk scoring the shaft. Don't ask how I know. Lets just say I am now looking for a speedi sleeve to fit the shaft.

I would swap out the highway pegs for a set of Kurykan Longhorns. Make sure you get the smaller one inch diameter clamps.

If memory serves there are some minor differences but I do know many of the carb parts are interchangeable but not all. I would think they should fit physically but you may have to play with the jetting and slider needle settings to match the 1200 requirements. I would go into a parts break down for each carb and see how the part numbers for each match up.

Mine is not the same as yours. but I do have the front pocket set so that it sits centered to the same height as the axle with the rear saddle adjusted so the wheel is not touching the ground. However seeing as how your front pocket is on a swivel I would be tempted to set it higher as long as the tire does not roll in so deep as to come in contact with the upright or the ground.

What! No princess auto. Hope you Don't wake up in the middle of the night with the shakes.

It was cosy little get together topped of with some of Marca's delicious homemade soup.

1st of all the fuel pump runs on both a timer and a line pressure sensor so it is quite normal to turn the key on and off for several cycles to get fuel to the carbs if they are empty. When the carbs are full the pump will barely run but a click or two. 2nd Check your screen to see what is displayed when the red light is on or flashing it could simply mean your getting low on fuel or your side stand is down while in gear. In the case of fuel level the light will flash when getting low. slow at 1st than faster as it gets lower and finally solid when your very low.

There is an artical in the tech section regarding what to do if the sense wire cannot be used in thevreplacement battery,k

You are correct regarding it should have 2 filaments and it should also have 2 lead contacts on the base. Odd that they would opt to use such a rare bulb for a simple signal light.

Partzilla https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/5VN-83311-00-00?srsltid=AfmBOoqvbcyNJGRjxIsVEs6mStkoJpX0vAsXoQiriUke46rRZonl0yOK

Dumb question as I am sure you already tried but is there a number on the bulb base

Go to the kuryakan web site. There you can pick out and combine the individual peices you need to create the configuration that suites your needs

Its hard to tell by the picture but I am inclined to agree with @Chaharly. If memory serves me right, (which ain't so great these days ) thats just a through shaft supported by the cover and connects to another flex joint and linkage behind the cover. You should be good by simply replacing the cover. BTW I have worked and stripped down a lot of these old girls and this is the 1st one I have seen do this. What size boot do you wear LOL.

Definitly. By the look of those rubbers I would say your caliper pistons have been sticking an over heating. When rebuilding avoid splitting the calipers in half. The seals that seal between the body halves are an odd size and difficult to find.

Yes bleeding the conentional way will work though these bikes can sometimes not be as co-operative as when bleeding car brakes. Back bleeding by feeding the fluid under pressure in through the bleeder screw until the master. Is full is more effective. On many hydraulic systems I have worked on which includes cars, heavy trucks and tow motors as well as hydraulic clutches, I have found back bleeding is sometimes the only method that works and is also the quickest.