vzuden

many of us have raised the rear about an inch to make the bike handle better. Others lower the front by either switching to the 130 tire or sliding the forks up in the triple tree. Either way makes a big difference

Many years ago I was employed at a new car dealership and we had a car traded in that was only a few years old with really low miles on it. It resold quickly at a most likely higher than normal price due to the low miles. It came back in a short time smoking and burning oil. We took the valve cover off and it was completely full of sludge. We eventually found that the original owner followed a strict oil change interval of every 2,000 miles. The problem was it took her two years or more to accumulate those miles. Not many understand the need to change it by time or miles elapsed whichever comes first

A common motorcycle jack works (I have a Craftsman) but you need to add some blocks of wood or hockey pucks for spacers. The best thing is to use is a lift adapter that attaches to the bottom of the bike for the jack to lift against. One of our members, CarbonOne, makes and sells them. I highly recommend going the extra step to purchase the support legs. With them you raise the bike, insert the legs, let the jack down so the weight is now on the legs and you can pull the jack completely out allowing easier access to work. After using the adapter I can’t believe I actually messed with the blocks as long as I did.

RSTD or Venture makes no difference as they are the same power plant. My ‘06 RSTD had it pretty bad

I use the Counteract brand of beads. They are made of glass rather than ceramic. I’ve not confirmed but I understand they are slightly smaller diameter and since they are glass are less likely to build up static and cling to the fill tube. I have never had any trouble simply pouring them in slowly

By its nature, a little oil goes a long ways and it spreads easily. It is hard to say, but I suspect you may be better off draining a little.

Chuck, the 4-2-4’s are baffled and have fiberglass packing. Yours were newly repacked when you bought them

I keep my oil level about 1/4 up from the bottom of the sight glass with the bike level. Anymore than that and I have to pull all the plastic air inlet and clean the oil film. Same with my last bike (RSTD)

I believe it was '09 where they had taken care of most the whine from the factory. My '07 was loud, even after the warranty replacement of the clutch basket. My '12 has nearly no whine

red ones or blue ones = trouble

I agree with Jake Wilson but they are now called Riders Domain. I haven’t ordered anything since the name changed

I’m in Madison now and am waiting for the rain to maybe let up. Will ride the last couple of hours then or maybe around 4:00, whichever comes first. Staying at the Vernon Inn.

i use Harbor Freights cheaper one ($37+ in your link) and it works great in my trailer

i don’t get off my bike without closing it. I had hydro lock once and was lucky there was no damage. It was with the factory fuel pump too.

I agree Jeff, many of us 2nd gen owners have changed the ride height with different links in the the back, fork tubes slid up, different tires, etc so what would work for one will not work for another. I have two blocks of wood screwed together to put under the side stand. It makes it nearly level. There is very slight lean to the left but not enough to have much effect on the level in the sight glass. The remaining slight lean means there is very little chance of it tipping over to the right.

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?1705-Rear-End-Noise-Yamaha-TSB this is from our tech library regarding the correct procedure to tighten and align the rear end

For my second gen I use the Baggershield windshield. They are an advertiser on this site and offer a discount to members. It is two parts. In rain I use it in the lowered position but I wear a rainsuit with full face helmet. That way I don’t have to look through the water on the windshield and the airflow keeps the water on my helmet visor very minimal. I use it in the upper position for long trips - less wind buffeting and in colder weather. As mentioned above, a Ram Mount is a great product to hold your phone on the handlebar. I wired in a cheap charger inside the fairing that is powered with key on. Ran a wire up through and along the handlebar to mount location. Phone is plugged in whenever in use. I use Bluetooth communicators in our helmets to use phone for navigation, music, text, email, and phone calls. I like the U Clear brand since there is no boom mike. Passenger and rider listen to each’s own phone.

It’s pretty bad. Just found out tonight they may have to make the decision to disconnect the life support.

@zagger, did you across the scene of a bike accident during the Run? My son’s neighbor hit a turkey while riding his triumph bonneville. Messed him pretty good (no helmet) with head injuries. I think it was near Cross Plains

Freebird’s guesstimate on model years above is pretty close. I think mine came from a 2009 and had the cat. The cat is in the right side and it is easy to tell once you have them in hand because the right side is noticeably heavier. I tried to remove it but made a mess of it. My set was free so I had nothing to lose. A quick search on eBay I found somebody selling a left side for $25. So I have two left pipes but you can’t tell the difference. I think I have more money invested in the chrome clamps to connect to the header pipes than in the mufflers

I use a hole saw in the middle of the tread. Turn hole to the bottom and “drain” them into a pan. Then break the beads

Why? They want to copy Harley

I use a block of wood under the side stands of my bikes. Each has its own small block stored in the bike

Have you considered balance beads? I have been using (and reusing) the Counteract brand. They last longer than Dynabeads. I believe it’s because they are glass but it’s been a while since I read up on them.

Or remember to turn fuel off at petcock every time you turn off engine.